Jump to content

The Madhatter

LSP_Members
  • Posts

    675
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by The Madhatter

  1. It is a cool ship isn't it. I think/hope the paint scheme I'll be doing will suit the beautiful lines.
  2. Nice shiny base coat Now to add some colour Lots to choose from - anything I like. Such fun to be had
  3. I am glad to say that the clear casting worked a treat! I am almost finished the detailing too. I only have one more bay to do. I am keeping the detailing as simple as I can. No point in over doing it in this example I've replace the 2 blank nubs at the end of the carburetor-like thing up front. Its funny how such a simple mod can have way more of an effect than adding wires etc: Well, that's all I have for now. I'm hoping to have some primer/paint on her very soon
  4. Thanks Matt. You've been a silent supporter for a long time, so I really appreciate your comment. The next layer of clear resin has been poured, so we'll see how that went later. I hope it works because I don't have a spare. I do have a mold though if worse comes to worse.
  5. So last night, I had an epiphany regarding the lighting. I was playing around with the engine section last night working out what goes where etc when it dawned on me that I did not need to cast the engine cover end in clear resin. In fact, that was an incredibly bad idea. As it turns out, a simple clear plastic circle that's been sanded on one side to diffuse the light will be fine. And I'm glad I worked that out when I did as I was able to remove the semi dried resin before it fully cured against the cover. Also, I had run off in places I was not expecting, so again, good timing to be appreciated. Anyway, I was having doubts on how I was going to be able to put the big spikey thing inside the cover when there would have been resin covering the opening. It was then I realised "crap, I hope I still have those discs I cut out of the end", as they already have the locating pins in place. Thank goodness I had the foresight to keep them just in case coz now is that case. So, revised lighting plan. I am going to have to use filament as that is the only way I can get light within the space allocated. I bought a couple of 130mm filaments to wind onto the mounting nub. I'll drill 2 holes, one above the other and wind the filament around it. I also cut 2 grooves into the lower surface of the wing to allow the passing of wires into the body. I am contemplating on using the droid head as a push on/off button with a battery cell contained within his head (maybe - I haven't fully explored this yet - its just an idea). I'm hoping to avoid using an external plug Engine cover on: I also thinned down the edge of the cover to allow for a little more light to pass out The mid nozzle canter has been cast clear and looks really good What I'm looking at doing now is cutting out the ring above the center so that too can be recast in clear. I think that'd look much better than just having the center section lit. Also whilst I'm on the subject of the engines, there are some very dubious details here. Take for example this: That solid line on the lower right side is meant to be a pipe bent 90 degrees (I think). Well, you can remdy this. You can do it the easy way which would be to cut it off and replace it with brass, or you could try to make something out of it like this: I will hide that roughness with some PE ladder. Sad thing is, you can't really see this pipe once its inside the engine pod, but hey, its good practice right. This is my test mule Onward and upwards as they say
  6. Thanks for those photos Martin, they are excellent and very useful.
  7. I have also thinned out the panels so they look like panels resting on ribs as opposed to be molded on Before: After: I'm getting there slowly. I'm finding it easier to detail in this scale. Being 1/24 is very handy as I can use things like ECU's from race cars as extra detail. Mind you, I am on the fence as to whether or not this is actually 1/24. It feels a bit more like 1/32. I used a scrap panel from an aircraft which is 1/32 in the cockpit and it fits the scale well (comparing the existing detail to the new). So yeah, so far so good. I think that the thinning of those panel edges has way more effect than just adding detail and is a must if you get this kit and want to make it less toy-like. It's a very simple enhancement that takes not long at all to do. I used a .2 engraving chisel to do the rib edges at the base of the panel See you again soon Si
  8. I've managed to get some additional detail in but am still working out how to detail the upper surface of the bottom hull plate in a way that it doesn't interfere with the upper hull. There's not as much room as I initially thought. I'm thinking of adding something directly behind the bars which should help hide that ugly space While I'm here, I may as well post some pics. I have started getting the engines ready for lighting and have prepped the nozzles etc ready for lighting. I'm using a method I saw on YT where I am recasting the center part in clear resin. This way, I won't loose any detail and I get a nice clear plate to shine light though: However, I will not be using filament as a light source. It's just too much. Check out the awesome sink marks: As I was saying earlier, I have cut out some missing panels so it looks a little less toy like: I've also hollowed out some of the material in the leading edge of the wing: Couple of scratches to get out there.... And finally, the main interior part so far: So yeah, that's where I'm at with it. One thing that will be a challenge is the cockpit instrument panel. I'm not sure how I will tackle the lighting there. I haven't really given it a lot of thought TBH Anyways, will keep at it See you all again soon Si
  9. It's not too bad, but it's disappointing if you wanted something really sharp to sit on your work desk. I'd buy another one though because it really is a good representation of an N1
  10. hey all I'm sorry: I couldn't stop myself. I tried, but I just could not resist it - I have to stop work on the Star Destroyer and build this brand new, highly anticipated (by myself) kit of The Mandalorian's personal hotrod. Like a lot of Mando fans, I was really taken by his modified N-1 Fighter. Personally, I thought it was a bit of a daft craft for a bounty hunter, but why let little details like that ruin a cool ship? Also like a lot of other fans, I decided to try my luck and try find a kit of an N-1 to modify. It came as no surprise to find there was a rush on 1/48 N-1's from AMT or, if you were lucky enough to find one for less than the price equal to Australia's entire GDP, the Fine Molds kit. So, as you can imagine, I was super mega excited to hear Revell were making a large scale N-1. I couldn't wait for April to get it here in Aus, so I went on Amazon. I got mine sent to me from the UK for free postage andf I can now see why it was free: it came in a paper satchel - resulting in a rather squished box. Upon first review, I thought nothing had been broken but alas no, one of the lower engine frames has bent and broken. Some of the sprues look a little warped as well. However, it's nothing that can't be and hasn't already been fixed. For those interested in this subject, you would have already seen the sprue shots for this kit, so I won't post pics of that stuff. I will show you some stuff that the promo pics do not show you. Unfortunately, my excitement has diminished a little bit upon dry fitting the hull and inserts and just in the overall quality of this kit. I am not a public basher of manufacturers by any stretch. I am stoked to have this subject represented at all. But this, sadly, is slightly disappointing, especially after their stellar work on the Razor Crest, which is an awesomely detailed kit with really sharp, well defined details. However, with this kit, I am finding the quality of the detail to be the total opposite to the Razor Crest. They just look toy-like. There is a common complaint with which I agree; the really prominent Revell logo and licensing stamp on the lower hull. I mean, that was just a really stupid decision to add that to the outside of the hull and not the inside. It was probably a directive from the Mouse. Who knows, but it's a quick and easy sand job to remedy. No big deal. There are big gaps ahead - especially around the hull joins but its possible that they may not need to muck filler. I won't be able to tell until its actually glued Here's a couple of pictures showing what I mean about the quality: The above picture is a prime example of my disappointment. Have a look at how much of a gap there is between the edge of that detail and the lower hull and how it just hovers over the hull. None of it looks natural. This is what I mean by it looking like a toy. There is a pretty decent void that can accommodate some more plumbing and other such detail, so that is exactly what I shall do. I give it 3 months before someone produces a 3D printed replacement set for this kit. I'd buy it. Also a replacement cockpit. Whist the kit is OK, its a bit dull. For this build, lights and so on will be a give in - no point really in saying that. However, I'm thinking I might add in some Raytheon lighting to some of the machine wells. That could be quite cool. But what excites me the most about this build is the intended paint scheme. I so can't wait to apply the choice I have in mind. It'll look so cool (I hope) So, if you're on the fence about this kit, maybe I can help you with your decision making over the next couple of weeks. I'll show as many issues as I find but to be honest, I am still happy I got it. There is heaps of room for improvement and it makes for a brilliant platform to express some creativity. Work on this starts Saturday Till then, stay cool till after school Si
  11. Very nicely done! The weathering is spot on, not over done Can't wait to start mine
  12. yeah no worries mate, I paid $110 including shipping. I can see why it was free. I could've waited until April for it to be released here in OZ, but I am impatient and wanted it now. I have a "source" at my LHS who is speculating the cost to be roughly $90- 100, so I don't feel like I've paid top dollar/OTT but that remains to be seen. I'll be pretty happy if they come out at a lower cost so then I can buy more
  13. At long last, this arrived today and I am super happy despite that it came in a brown paper bag from the UK - so you can guess what kind of condition it turned up in.... Not happy Jan The box is quite big - about what I was expecting. The kit itself is very large though - over 45cm in length. So can't wait to start this. I have plans to make this my own N1 and not do Mando's one - because everyone will do it Silver. I may have to buy another one or 2 just for the different paint schemes I have in mind
  14. Evening all Thought I'd post a quick update of where I'm up to. Since Friday last week, I have been working on the top plate. I was asked elsewhere if I could elaborate a bit more on the process of detailing. I thought the top plate edging would be a good subject to show how I do things. Quick disclaimer - I am not a professional modeller and my work is pretty average in terms of tidiness but I try. I have seen some seriously amazing scratch builders here and on other sites, with some actual skills they could teach which is why I feel like a little bit of a fraud doing this as what I do pales in comparison. But I said I would, so here goes. First, I had to measure out how much over hang I wanted and then conform the back edge to the edge of the existing base plate: Then I drew out a basic outline of the edges: resulting in: Using the waste material from the base layer cut, I then made a second layer. This was then flipped over and every edge lined with 0.20x0.20 strip plastic. I have run out of strip already - I used an entire pack on just 3 sides with the rear ones still to go. I'll be in the city on Friday so I'll pick some more up then So that's 2 evenings worth of work. Now I have started to detail the lower ledges. Once they've been done, I'll permanently attach them and then blend in the upper surface to the plates. Then the detailing will be done and I can move onto painting and lighting it all. As you can see, I've found a good use for all those left over PE radar bits I have lying around. They make for some great details I hope I haven't insulted anyone's skill levels with my very basic and rudimentary attempts at scratch building, but I'm hopeful it will help someone out with some ideas.. As always, thanks for stopping in and having a look Si
  15. Actually, I was just browsing the site of the first place I should have gone to (BNA) and found out they also do a Stuka. Whilst I am not a huge fan of it, the kit itself looks amazing. I thought they only did the Lancaster (shows how much I follow aircraft kits). The one kit I saw elsewhere that looks promising is the HE-111. I might have to save up and buy that when it gets released
  16. Yeah, I realised now that's because I was looking at the Kate and flight deck combo. I just found the Kate on her own for a much more reasonable price. My wallet is hating you right now for making me aware of this.
  17. I just went over all 7 pages of this and am left in awe of your paint work Quang. The praise from fellow modellers is very much well deserved Until recently, I had never really had too much interest in WW2 aircraft with the exception of a couple of the usual subjects like the Spitfire and Mig-3, and to some extent, some of the bombers let alone anything Japanese, but your build of this particular aircraft is very inspiring to me. So much so that I looked up one of these to buy for myself but nearly chocked on my Cornflakes when I saw the price sticker!! No thanks. I'll just enjoy watching you build it instead. What saddens me about this kind of detailed kit (and kind of stops me from buying it) is that once the fuselage goes together, you don't see ANY of that hard work. Just knowing it's there isn't enough for me personally anymore. If I'm going to spend that much time on something - I want it visible. Having removable panels is a great idea but pointless if your anything like me who'd loose it within 30 seconds of taking it off then probably step on it whilst looking for it. Regardless of all that, your build is simply awesome and a stark reminder of why I need to start looking in this part of the forums more often Si
  18. I have just caught up with this one and man - I bow to your scratch building skills! The impeccable workmanship on display here is something that I can only aspire to achieve. Whilst the subject itself is not something I would personally build, I can certainly appreciate the effort and skill that you have put into this. Judging by the quality shown so far, it would not be out of place being displayed in a maritime museum when it's done. Great work! I'd love to see what you would do to a WW2 battleship or cruiser.... Simon
  19. I know I'm a bit late to the party here Kev - sorry. You have done a heck of a lot of work on this already, so it would be a shame to bin it because of the tail. So, why not 3D print one in the correct shape? (IF you have access to a 3D printer). Or scratch build a tail yourself using sheet styrene in the correct shape? You wouldn't have to worry too much about panel lines as the decals will hide any issues there and @ 1/144 scale, panel lines would be barely visible anyways.
  20. just as an FYI, but my final obstacle with this build has just been over come with the fiber optic store finally getting back into business. I have just ordered 60 feet of end glow cable for 50% off - so normally that'd be $108 but got it for $54 with shipping making it $85AU - and that is a steal really when it used to cost me that much for just 20 feet! So, if you are in the market for some fiber optic cable to spice up your build, https://thefiberopticstore.com/ is the place to go. No, I am not being paid or sponsored by them in any way (I wish!) - I just really like their product! Happy building!
  21. That's some amazing paint work! I was lucky enough to see ine of these at my club meet last year. It's a very impressive and quite imposing kit. Is the lighting your own or an AM set?
  22. hi again Time for another update to this on-going saga. Almost finished the right side mid level - just some more detail to add and then it's onto the final detailing stage of the top plate. The left side is pretty much done as I want it to be. just a couple more detail bits but not much So, starting with the left side: Now the right side: There are a couple more photos but something weird is going on with Flickr right now which is causing images not to post properly. I have advanced a fair bit in the time since these photos were taken, but the next update will be the finished levels (not painted) If you have any constructive feedback, by all means, please let me know - I won't get any better without it. As always, thanks for stopping in and having a look Till next time Si
  23. LOL, maybe I could add something like that as a sort of "where's wally?" There's always the "guess the part" game you can play too
  24. No, no fighters in the trench sadly. If I add anymore ships or such, it becomes a diorama and that's not what I'm aiming for. Currently, its a ship with a fancy base and for comp, that's what i need
  25. Its great to see this progressing some more Tom. Looking awesome, mean and massive. I know I've likely asked this before, but where and how will you be storing/displaying this behemoth?
×
×
  • Create New...