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quang

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Everything posted by quang

  1. Living proof that you don’t necessarily need PE or resin to make a good model. Good show and great photos, John!
  2. … just like what my ex-wife used to tell me: looking for the things that hurt!
  3. This is the tailwheel supplied by Italeri: I guess that the tailwheel on series I is like the one on the C.200. What do you think? Don’t you worry. Your last pics are really useful. One can see that there were some slight variations in the sans-filter air intakes. Thank you for your comments. Cheers, Quang
  4. A true labour of love . If it’s not too late, I’d like to add myself in the long waiting line. A very impressed Quang
  5. Max, you just put your finger where it hurts. Replicating glass in 3D (or even in 2D) has always been an artist’s nightmare. You have to convince the viewer that: 1- the glass is transparent. 2- the surface is glossy. 3-the coloured glass is tinted. My method is to deal with each factor separately and one at a time. First to show that the glass is transparent, I paint the inside of the goggles the colour of the helmet underneath - as it there was NO glass. Next step is to overlay it with a glaze of white and light blue to represent the sky reflected on the glass. The final step is an overall finish of clear green-tinted varnish to represent the coloured glass. The true challenge is how to make the final result looks convincing notwithstanding the lighting conditions and the angle the viewer looks at it. And this, friend… is a matter of hit-or-miss.
  6. What I like the most in Williams Bros kits is the instruction sheet. Very instructive with quality drawings, they’ve never been excelled. I bought the Williams Seversky at its release then sold it years ago when I stopped modelling. A few months ago, I found a used one at a modelling show for 10 euro. It’s been resting on its shelf since. Now seeing your excellent build, I’m wondering if its time has finally come after all!
  7. Mike, if I got it right, what @MDriskill meant was this:
  8. Haha, an obvious feeling of déjà vu although it seems like it happened a long time ago in a far, far away galaxy… In any case, I’m a keen follower because there’s always something to learn from the fabulous Thunnus WIPs.
  9. I already got most of the details you mentioned but I totally missed the tail-wheel strut. Just in time for I was just about to mount it on and close the fuselage halves. Thank you very much for the head-ups. Cheers, Quang
  10. Thank you @Borsos @spyrosjzmichos. My aim is to build the stock kit to the most of my ability while making it entertaining. Glad you like it. Cheers, Quang
  11. Thanks M! I’m coming to the same conclusion as yours. Although I found this clear pic of a factory-fresh series III C.202 built by Macchi. The intake looks longer than on the Aero Detail drawing. The flaring at the opening is also less prominent. Picture for info only
  12. Thank you for your photos which will no doubt be very helpful to everyone expecting the new kit (although they’re vaguely familiar to me ). A few notes though: for some reason, part #4 on the 3D decal sheet is not as finely printed as the others and sticks out like a sore thumb on the IP. It would benefit from a quick black wash to tone down the stark white printed details. For once, I found the photoetch supplied with the kit adequate and useful. The brass used is of the right thickness and hardness and really adds to the details.
  13. I agree Tolga. It would make a welcome change from the good ol’ Curtiss Aren’t they all, John? The trick is to try to enhance whatever you can, forget the rest and be happy with it. Quite an useful link you found there Mike, especially the original manual for erecting the fuselage. Thank you for sharing it.
  14. Actually if one discards the wheel bay covers (part 17a), the area between the rear of the engine and the front of the firewall becomes visible (like on the real thing). Then it would be ‘only’ a matter of filling the empty space with the assorted piping. ‘
  15. No, Mike. I guess they’ve got the old Matchbox engraver out of retirement and put him at work on the fuselage. Do the panels overlap on the real thing? I have to check out.
  16. Thank you. Glad you like it. To paraphrase a wise man: don’t trust a decal without a photo Here’s the area in question. Dry-fitted without extra care. It does make sense. Nevertheless remember the painter artist’s old principle: farther= darker, nearer=brighter. Thank you for your comments, Cheers, Q
  17. PAINTING THE COCKPIT Hot on the heels of my recent experience in painting Amelia Earhart and Lydia Litvyak busts, I decided to adapt my painting style to the cockpit. The ‘regular’ aircraft modeller way is: first apply the local colour (in this case the Italian version of zinc chromate) then give an overall wash of diluted paint to bring up the details. The figure painting way should be: first determine a source of light (in our case, direct sunlight coming from overhead a.k.a. zenithal lighting, into the pit) then paint each component accordingly. Thus the bottom of the pit should be darker than the sides. Accordingly the areas nearer to the cockpit opening should be lighter. That is what I tried to achieve. The 3D effect is accentuated by adding false shadows and highlights with a brush. Oxygen bottles were code-painted blue The 3D-printed instrument panel is a welcome initiative but only slightly better than the regular plastic moulded panel with traditional decals. Intricate details on control column needs careful brushwork. Side panels in situ to check out the lighting effect. Right side wall attached. Note how the relief and lighting are taking effect. Pigments to dirty up the cockpit floor That’s it for now. Comments and questions are welcome. Thank you for watching. Until next time Cheers, Quang
  18. This is model-making. This is not making magic
  19. I’m well aware that the Border is a different mark from the Kotare. What I meant is this: if I were persuaded that Kotare produces the best Spitfire kit around, why don’t I wait until they release the variant I’m looking for instead of wasting my time discussing another brand and more over another scale? Ah… but it’s only old grumpy me.
  20. There we go again. You got the Kotare, so why bother with the Border?
  21. Just trying to revive the urgency of our early days, John. Not that I can because I lost my innocence a long, long time ago…
  22. I made this 1/48 Series 1 some years ago but can’t remember how I did it. Aah well…
  23. This is why this hobby is so much more than sticking plastic… although some of us have the secret pleasure of letting the unsuspecting world believe that it’s otherwise
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