JT68

There is a lot of discussion of other scales in this forum.  If you don't want to read it, don't read it.  It costs you nothing except your needlessly raised blood pressure.  People like things other than LSPs.

Justification for what?  AFAIK, we’re free to discuss other scales in General Discussion.

Great work all over Jeff!
 
That little correction with the umbrella looks good.
 
Im doing this model at the moment as well, and will be using masks for the first time too, hopefully it all goes alright.
 
Cheer's,
Jeff.

Hello again.
 
Very quick update.  I was working on adding the unit insignia and some stenciling. 
 
After everything was in place I noticed that the port side insignia decal was missing the umbrella on Goofy's plane entirely.
 

 

 
After sleeping on it I decided to use a photocopy of the unit insignia to create a triangle template that would match the umbrella.  
 
 

 
I transferred it to a small piece of scrap red walkway decal and cut it to shape.  I free handed the umbrella shaft and admit it's not perfect.  In my defense it's about .5mm and that was about as fine a line as I could get.
 
 

 
Not identical and not perfect but better then nothing.  Hopefully I can seal all the decals under a 2nd clear coat tomorrow and move forward with the project.
 
Thanks for looking.
 
Jeff

Well it's been about a month.  
 
I've been slowly working on the Jug but unfortunately not documenting my work too carefully. 
 
First time using masks for painting the markings.  Honestly one of the most satisfying things I've done since returning to the hobby.  I used Gunze and Tamiya paints as I can't find MRP in Canada yet.
 
 

 
Lots more work to come, but it's a start.  
 
Thanks for looking and stay safe.
 
Jeff
 

 

 

thanks for looking
jan

Superbly done!
 
Beautiful work all round there.
 
Cheer's,
Jeff.

1/32 Cyber Hobby
HGW rivets, wet transfers, seat belts
Yahu instrument panel
All colours MRP
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Great effort, but too much for my skill level. I will build mine OOB and hope no one visits who is familiar with the plane. 
 
Which is very likely considering the only other WWII nut in my neighborhood is totally into armor.

Good Lord, that was a lot of work! Very impressed, and I'm even more certain I will never buy that kit now. I probably wouldn't have anyway, but wow.

Hey guys, It's my first  thread here and I gotta say, it's really nice being on an ACTIVE forum for a change.
 
SO... So... I picked up this turd at my hobby shop. I read an article in an old FSM magazine and knew I could polish it up. I set right out to order all the fancy parts for it. New engine and cockpit from Eduard. New landing gear bays and wheels from Airies, as well as a bunch of photoetch from Eduard.
 

 
However, the aftermarket parts I got, were for the trumpeter/tamiya kits, I decided I could make them work when I ordered them. So I did the thing any respected modeler would do. 
 
I built it up.
 

 
And then let my daughter paint it.
 

 

 
And then since I'm a grown assed man that can do what I want, when my girlfriend lets me. I ordered the kit I wanted IN THE FIRST PLACE
 

 
I'm still waiting on paints and a pair of nice fine tipped nippers to show up. But I plan to paint this up as Kepfords 29, Which I'm sure is a HUGE shocker.
I've ordered all the paints except the main color ones. What are people using for them? Tamiya lists a bunch of rattlecan colors, but I was hoping for something that wouldn't require decanting, and something acrylic. I usually use Tamiya colors, but this is my... 3rd? 4th? Corsair done (first 1:32) and I'm tired of having to mix the colors to the extent that those paints call for. I LOVE the one that Miloslav Hraban did on this site, but it looks like he used MRP laquers, which I can't really use in my apartment.  
 
Any advice on colors/pictures/things to be aware of on this kit, would be greatly appreciated!
 

Brilliant work Pete!
 
Cheer's,
Jeff.

Hey all-
started with the cockpit stuff.
first I shot some primer yellow (Tamiya XF-4 yellow green) on those spots I was going to chip. When dry, this was shot with a barrier coat of flat lacquer. (You can skip the lacquer if your primer color is enamel) once dry, shoot it with aerosol hair spray right out of the can. Let that dry. A hairdryer will do the trick in a minute or two.
 
 
When the hairspray is dry, airbrush Tamiya Rubber black over that. Clean your airbrush. By the time you have your airbrush put away, you can start on the next step.
 
 
grab a short bristled brush and some water. Wet the area you want to chip. Let it sit for a minute, then start working the chipping with your brush. Clean the black off of your brush periodically as you go-
 
 
when all that dries, dry brush with MM Gunship Grey enamel.
 
 
 
The instrument panel went a little differently. First, I shot it with Tamiya Rubber black. When dry, I dry brushed the whole affair with MM Gunship Grey.
To get the contrast I wanted between the raised instruments and flat panel, dry brushing wasn’t enough.. there needs to be two distinct blacks..a noticeable but subtle difference between the instrument bezels and flat panel. To achieve this, I used an old-school technique- I carefully applied a jet black wash with a long bristled thin brush..carefully flowing the wash in between the raised instruments. This was built up slowly in thin layers. You need to put this on thin to get it to flow. Capillary action is your friend.
 
 
 
from here I can start the detail painting, etc-
 
cheers
 
Pete

This lockdown situation gave me a little more time to do some modelling. I have given up on 1/32 and 1/24 i think. I keep buying them , then loads of aftermarket , starting them , getting bored with them and selling them on. Time for a change. I want to build good quality models , that actually fit on a shelf. I will not be using aftermarket if i can help it.  I have been getting more into the Pacific Theatre and so have decided to go with planes from that. I will be sticking to Accurate miniatures or italeri , Tamiya and Hasegawa. I really dont have the patience for poor fitting kits anymore.
This kit has really bought the fun back into modelling. Beautifully detailed and easy to build. I have a great time just building from the box. The problem is i think i need the rest of the F4U line now!
Apologies for pics i took them on my Iphone
 

Thread drift has reached an all new level in here...
 

Very nice work Big T!
 
Cheer's,
Jeff.

Even though we've all seen this plane done dozens of times, it's always been one of my favorites, so here's mine all finished up.
Details:
Hasegawa ST19 kit
Eagle Editions "Yellow 10" decals for specific markings and swastikas
HGW wet transfers for national insignia and most stencils
HGW seatbelts
HGW wood decals for flaps
Aires wheel bays and cockpit
Airscale instruments and placards (thanks, Peter!)
Grey Matter Figures (Rutman) D-13 conversion set 
S.O.W. main landing gear legs (thanks Damian!!)
Eduard exterior PE bits and canopy masks
Barracuda wheels
Moskit exhausts (thanks WilliamJ!)
Wire antennae, brake lines, brass tube gun barrels
Homebrew washes and chalk weathering
 
Thanks for looking!
Tim
 














 

OK, last one guys, I swear. This is my COVID-19 quarantine build and I'm pretty happy with the way this one turned out. As with the previous three, no real weathering to speak of and built mostly OOB with exception of HGW seatbelts in addition to the Vickers and double Lewis guns courtesy of Eduard Brassin. Sorry I didn't get any pics of the underside - I'm too damn scared to flip it upside down!
 
As I mentioned in the introduction for the Junkers D.1 build I posted earlier, I'm really not at the point where I build for historical accuracy so this bird has features that were not included on the "IF" scheme outlined in the manual (wheel covers and double Lewis guns). These recent WNW builds are all going into the display case for basically only me to look at so I decided I can live with it because I like the way it looks! I think I told myself when I was building it that I would build the next one to a much higher historical standard (and actually do a WIP!) but that was before recent developments...
 
Anyway, on to the pictures. 
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
OK, I swear I'm done now... Anyone have any ideas how I get these safely from NYC to California?  

Getting closer and finding that my long layoff from building (work, travel, moving...) has seriously eroded my skills.  I've painted and repainted due to not doing things in the right order and I have a LOT of seam clean-up still to do.  But I'm getting a lot better at cleaning up canopies (since Tamiya has that nice seam right down the middle to deal with...).
 
I also think I didn't trim the canopy floor enough to deal with the Barracudacast resin sidewalls as there seems to be some stress in the fuselage.
The EagleCal decals responded extremely well to MicroSol but did NOT like to be moved or adjusted very much.  The fuel caps are painted.
 
The red is Vallejo Red, the Olive Drab panel is MRP over white Vallejo primer.  Wings are a mixture of Vallejo Metal Aluminum and Vallejo light gray.
The yellow stripe is also Vallejo yellow over a dusting of Vallejo white primer.  Fuselage and the panels by the exhaust are Vallejo Metal Color over Vallejo gloss black primer.  The Prop is simply Vallejo Black Primer (and Tamiya decals).  No over coat yet on the aircraft, but will hit it with clear flat here shortly...(and THAT's why I should not have taken off the windscreen masks - blast!).
 

 


 
What is interesting is that almost nothing on the bottom of the aircraft is glued on.  The landing gear is screwed on, and the landing gear doors are a press fit (and a very tight one at that!  And the drop tanks will be attached with magnets.  Tires are the resin Barracudacast set.  Nice detail on the wheels.
 

 
Everyone have a good Sunday and a Happy Mother's Day!
 
Chris

My company is starting a gradual phase-in to get manufacturing & engineering back up to speed. I was first on the list to go back. Looking forward to it. I'll be getting as much done on my Komet & F-104 as I can in the meantime.

Hi all,
getting closer on the pilot seats! The carabiners still need to be strapped in.
the chem light glow sticks are just Evergreen rod, with one end pinched flat with a flat nose pliers, then a little Tamiya clear green- the first aid kits are Live Resin items, with markings from Archer- dry transfers that I made into decals. The intercom panels need some markings; but man they are small! We’ll see I guess- the seat frames need some dust too-
 
 
  
 
 
cheers
 
Pete

Thanks for the comment guys.  A bit more work on the G-14 as well...
 
Can't really tell from the pics but the fuselage has been riveted.

 
Before I glued the port sidewall into place, I painted a few of the wires in yellow to kick up the visual interest per Vincent's suggestion.

 
I also put the seat belts on.  The attachment still needs to be worked out later so I've chosen glue spots somewhat below so I can move the belts out of the way when I have to smooth out the rear deck of the cockpit.


 
Since the riveting is done, I've glued the fuselage sides together.  Kinda cool doing this now with nothing else in inside of the fuselage.  I'll attend to the center seam before moving on.

It looks the drop tanks had just as many variations as the aircraft!  No surprise there!  The hex plug adds a little bit of visual interest to the tank  so I'll probably keep it but I'm still wanting to reduce it in size if I can.
 
The cockpit for the G-14 has been painted.


 
Getting close-up shots of the cockpit can be very unforgiving, revealing flaws that you miss in person.  But it is also a very good way to improve one's technique.  I'm a firm believer that good photography can make one a better modeler.




 
Chipping was done with a combination of hairspray (major areas on the seat and floor) and dry-brushing.  A pastel wash and dry pastels added a little more wear.  The few data stencils were from Airscale.  The sidewalls are not yet attached to the cockpit tub so we can get a sideways view into each side of the cockpit... a view that won't be possible when the fuselage sides are glued together.


 
The downward view is probably more important since it better approximates the actual view into the cockpit.  This shows the added MW50 gauge and also some sloppy painting on the actuating rods coming out of the throttle quadrant.

 
On the starboard side, you can see the additional gauges near the oxygen regulator that were given the same treatment (Airscale gauge decals and clear plastic dials) as the instrument panel.