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Gunnar J

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About Gunnar J

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    LSP Member
  • Birthday 03/20/1964

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    Hobbywise my main interests are WWII modelling, prefereble late war armour and aircraft.
    I also like sculpturing.

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  1. Hi Anthony Haha yes unfortunately I'm to much of a "rivet counter" to..I said I should just build this kit..but with a spinner off a couple of mm etc it itches to either try to modify it myself or wait for hopefully a upgrade based on your maser ;-) Please do send som pics when possible, would love to see and learn more on this topic :-) Cheers/ Gunnar
  2. Hi Anthony Thanks for your answer. I had a look yesterday and compared the spinner and nose front dia against Bentley's Typhoon drawings (I guess the nose dim are the same? ;-)) and notised as mentioned the SH spinner plate dia is ca 2mm to large and the dia at the nose behind the plate ca 1.6 mm to large compared to the Bentley's drawings. I couldn't see that there are any major issues with the radiator cowling more than it ca 0.5 mm to vide, but thta is against Bentleys drawings. I have made a spinner in CAD for MDC Typhoon kit long time ago as the kit one was to small to the nose..I will check what dia I did on that ;-) Gunnar
  3. Hi Anthony Very interesting and good thread...I think I followed you most of the way . You mention the 1/3 of the nose section, do you mean the 1/3 of the SH kit nose section parts? I'm also curious if did you managed to recreate the surface detail and panels back or? Regards/ Gunnar
  4. Hi No expert on the Tempest versus the Typhoon, but I took the SH Tempest nose section and compared it to Bentley's 1/32 Typhoon profile drawing and it was almost spot on, a slight difference in the bottom curvature, looked less than 1 mm at most. Didn't check the spinner backplate dia though..but to me the profile looked good, but I have to check it more closely again now :-) / Gunnar
  5. Hi guy's I thought I should flick in a few things that might straight out some things and questions regarding these "gun boats". I designed them mainly for the Revell kit and as I don't have a set yet I can't say the fit for the hasegawa kit. I had the print in my hands when I sculpted the boot covers..unfortunately I forgot to test fit to thr Hasegawa wing, but unless the wing profile differs a lot I don't thing there will me any major issue to adjust the fit if needed. :-) There was a question regarding the length and this is an issue with the ones in the Hasegawa kit, they are to short and these upgrades adresses this..this was the first thing I wanted to fix with the design. Also sculpt the gun-boot covers. I must give a lot of credit to Radu and his great drawings in the ADH publishing on Building the Revell 109 G6, I also found some good pics that was very useful :-) Regards/ Gunnar
  6. Hi again guy's As Steve mentioned we had som interesting discussion about mainly the Erla lower cowling, I agree with Radu the there is no real "flat" areas on the cowling only more "flat" than the ones used by othe manufacturers..and ad Steven also agrees to. ;-) I mentioned that The liwer Erla cowling is not symnetrical, I strongly believe after seeing som pics the the port side has a slight curvature and has a slightly different profile the rear, the starboard side is more vertical though the port side has a bigger radius but at the top is "pinched in" to be more vertical, here you where right compared to my rendering about the portution of the last exhaust stack...though the port side is a few centimeters wider there to make clearance for the engine bar. Radu's drawings of the G6 in ADH publishing of Revells G6 has bern very helpful for me and csn really recommend them :-) When working on the design of the 109 nose section I now understand the problem the to narrow distance between the Mg's has caused for the overall nose design when looking from a top or bottom view, it's slightly underfed and the fairing for the oil tank is "punched in" in stead of having a slight curvature outwards. Here I would like to ask anyone with the knowledge about the Erla and the oil tank fairing..as the I get it they also had their own design of this to match the broader front of the lower cowling? Also could anyone give the exact dim between the spinner c/l and the base of the exhaust stacks for the DB 605 A/S and D? (vertical dim?) :-) Regards/ Gunnar
  7. Hi Steve Thank you for your answer, probably me but I still don't follow and understand looking from a side wiew should the exhaust stacks be sitting lower and any idea how much? ;-) Thrust line is that the centerline of the aircraft, not center of prop? I would like to show some cad images to you if ok and please contact me offline at guj5@hotmail.com Regards/ Gunnar
  8. Hi Steve I'm currently struggling doing the nose section in cad for the Erla G10 and you mention that Revell has the exhaust's to high up on the fuselage? Can you elaborate that more? I don't see how lowering that wouldn't cause other problems and that means their G6 has the same problem? and the position look ok to other drawings so...what's the deal here? :-) Regards/ Gunnar
  9. Hi guys I can't understand the " sceptisism" about that the dark green we see on late war fighters etc is just a variation of RLM 81. Just because we have heard this RLM83 as a Dark green in publications...that we know is not based on any facts. The new info found in archives by Michael U and partly shown by Thierry are also met with sceptisism by many..."show us pictures" whats the proof?...but There are vitnesses about the Ju 88 and the floater in Norway etc. But HERE is a thing that one should think about regarding the document and that is says it was trials and perhaps not introduced, BUT if so there is no chance that they should have changed RLM83 Dunkel Blau ( code and colour is a fact) and change it stating it then should be a Dark green colour...you get my point! :-) Also Radu when you say why don't we see fighters with the blue...well you are a knowledgeble guy and know that when introduced the war situation had shifted and fighters where not operating that much over the mediterranian. Why keep resisting...and pieces falls better in place with the latest information. ;-) Regards/ Gunnar
  10. Hi The kit looks very nice and I will surely get a bunch of them when released :-) I know these are only test shots and maybe the pictures doesn't show but I noticed that on the wind screen part, the six recesses seams very faint and shallow, it looks like they need to be "deeper" and what about the bolts at the bottom? Can anyone verify if I'm wrong or maybe it will be adressed? :-) I sure hope this kit will not inherit the same poor defined "features" and details (bulges etc) that their 109 kits....so unecessary that would lift the kits further. Regards/ Gunnar
  11. Hi Brian Yes I know about the Alley Cat repacement canopy, probably agood alternative but why should we need to get replacement parts from another company and it doesn't adress the front screen part. It is one thing for aftermarkets where they have added och improved something, but when it comes to just "bad" qualiy control and when it comes to productions issues I think Arfix should sort this out and asap :-) I don't want to criticize Airfix as they have good service and probably trying to do their best, but they can't just send out replacements from same batches or parts that hasn't been visually checked and controlled, that is not good customer policy, but I hope they are working on it and I can wait for a good set if I know that they take it more seriously than it seams now. :-) This is not a mold error but problems in the process, the parts hasn't had time to set in the mold, flow caracteristics etc...and as I stated earlier...not rocket sience, but do anyone know if Airfix has stated something somewhere if they are working to solve this? :-) / Gunnar
  12. I don't think it would help but as I have future I could give it a try, but firts for a kit at this price range you shouldn't be needing to do that, the parts are badly molded and the producer needs to adress this. :-) / Gunnar
  13. Hi I would like to point out a thing with Revells 109 Erla G10 and the shape (profile) of the upper cowlings, if you don't bother about details like this and are satisfied with the "general" look then please don't read and look at this . The cowling doesn't not only have issue with the distance between the gun trougs but also the nose looks and are to "thin" in the upper regions,looking at the profile at top on the rear of the engine cowling section the profile is almost "circular", but should be more "flat" on top (wider), this means the cowling section behind it (front of the windscreen) are "pinched in" at the front where I believe is should have more of a straight taper and being wider at the front. Also the flange section of the turbo intake I beleive should be "assymetrical" between the upper and lower section (looking at photos), not shown or changed in these pics. Looking from above and the port side of the engine cowling my kit had a inward curve to the front section, where it should be more a straight taper or with a slight curvature "outwards", I have been working on the cowling parts to adress these things, the photos are early ones and the parts I have been working are more refined now and will post some more pics, but I just would like to share my thoughts and what I have seen for anyone interested. ;-) If anyone would like to comment please do. :-) Regards/ Gunnar
  14. Hi guys Sorry for taking up this topic again as I think it's been discussed here earlier. I had as many problems with the canopy parts in Airfix new 1/24 Typhoon kit, I had the crack at the sprue attachment, distortion at the rear but also a big "long oval shaped" distortion at the front face on the windsreen. I contacted Airfix about repacement and got a new sprue but believe it or not these parts was even worse!! though it didn't have the crack on the canopy part it had some marks on the windscreen that looks like scratches or "smear" marks...but seams to be under the surface?? The distortions are also there and and the canopy part now has a long what looks lika a "hairline" crack on the left side at the rear, holding it to the light there are a lot of distorions in the canopy parts. Has anyone else seen these marks on there parts? I was so impressed when I saw the kit at Telford last year, a gorgeous kit overall but the canopy parts sucks!! Where is the quality check?..especially when sending out replacement parts?...Making clear parts are not rocket sience these days. :-) I hope they work on the problems and above all don't send out replacements that are as bad and even worse. Regards/ Gunnar
  15. Hi Martin Your conversion looks very nice...I'm curious how good is the fit of the Hasegawa cowling section to Revells fuselage?, have you taken the whole power egg, whole front section, from the rear of the engine cowling or? I have been trying to design the "hinged" upper cowling section in cad, adapted to the Revell G6 kit as a start on a G6/AS-G14/ AS conversion, but's tricky to get the exact shape, probably I have to do the final tuning by hand. :-) Keep up the good work and please show more ;-) Regards/ Gunnar
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