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clifft

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Everything posted by clifft

  1. Hello Steve, I am looking for someone who could do 3D printing for me. I have the file, but have no equipment or experience in this area. Could you direct me to someone who might be able to help me out? Thanks. Cliff
  2. Thanks Mark. The info and your quick reply, both appreciated.
  3. Jumping back to Red 8 and looking at the instruction sheets, were the upper wing surfaces a solid color? or would they have been a splinter pattern? (sorry if I missed this elsewhere)
  4. Thanks Matt. @ hacker, ain't it the truth...
  5. I received an email from Eagle Cals the other day showing a functional photoetch canopy they will be carrying made by Radu. Can anyone tell me more on this? From the pics in the email, it looks absolutely fantastic!
  6. Shawn, Check out the decals at Eagle Cals' website. They have several decal sheets with some excellent paint schemes. Sheet #38 - 43, #81 and #88 should have something that will catch your eye. Just click on them and you will be able to see the paint schemes and markings for each 109 on the decal. The other thing I would suggest is to pick up a few of their resin aftermarket sets for the 109 as well. I've outfitted all my 1/32 109s with their sets. It gets a tad expensive, but it makes a world of difference. I also bought MDC's 109 cockpit set as well for some of the 109s I have. I have a couple extra little Eagle Cals upgrade pieces if you are interested. I'll give you a good deal on them The other thing I did was to pick up a set of the MOSKIT hollow metal engine exhausts for my 109s as well - makes a world of difference! Cliff
  7. you don't say... can you post a pic of this camo scheme??? I am quite curious as I have yet to come across a K scheme that has really grabbed my attention. BTW Chris, just have to chime in with the gang here on you G, great job!!! Looking forward to seeing more of it as time permits.
  8. Jay, Easy Off will eat metal??? Really? I've never heard that before. Thanks for the heads up! I don't use too much aftermarket metal sets to begin with (more of a resin type a guy), but I recently picked up a few metal u/c sets for the Fw.190. I'll have to keep this in mind if I ever do a repaint or have to strip them down. Thanks again Jay.
  9. Easy Off oven cleaner works. Spray the kit and seal it in a bag or plastic container. The fumes are what removes the paint. Leave it for 20 -25 minutes, then take an old toothbrush and clean it off under warm running water.
  10. Good points for the differences, even a couple I was not aware of - thanks! As for the kit to start with, try to find the Monogram ProModeller kit of the 109G-4 It is the Hasegawa kit and comes with a set of suitable resin wheels, although I'd recommend the AIRES Bf.109F wheel set myself, especially as it comes with a suitable tail wheel for the earlier 109's. I believe Hannants and possibly Squadron have these in stock. Squadron had these kits on sale for $20 (I've got 4 myself and am using spare parts from my other 109 kits to convert these into later variants, but to do a G-2, this is perfect for you!
  11. Very helpful!!! Thanks once again for all this useful info, it is appreciated.
  12. Does anyone here have any reference material on the instrument panel layout for the following 109Gs: 109G-14 109G-6AS 109G10AS I am wondering if these would not all share the same basic layout? Also, would the late War 109G-6's with a tall tail, still retain the same instrument panel layout as their earlier predessors? or would that have changed somewhat (say more like the G-14s) ? Many thanks for your help.
  13. Mike, that is indeed the one! BTW, where did you find the pic?
  14. Tom, I think the sheet you have is for a Bf.109G-2. I have one by Ventura and it is a desert camo with US markings. If this sounds like the same one, drop me an email and I can send you a scan of the instructions.
  15. Hey Mike, no kidding eh? As it is, I think I've already made my 109 a big enough project (aside from the PRP pieces, I picked up some of Eagle Cals sets, MDC sets and Meteor Productions' as well, probably spent double on resin than what the kit actually cost me! Heck, I think I even have a fret or 2 of Eduard photoetch in there somewhere d'oh!). Hey Gene, not really losing any sleep over the scoops, my original intent was to just sing a few praises to the quality of PRP's sets as I was very pleased with them. Mike pointed out something to me and he's quite right about how if you end up being to finiky the kit will never get built. I did actually purchase the set you mention and was going to use the scoops they provide, I was just fortunate enough to come across an article that made mention of PRP and I found Bruce's website. If it's aftermarket resin, is good quality and helps to improves the look of a kit, I'm in there like a dirty shirt... just ask Uncle Rick Hmmm, funny, I think I hear him now telling me to "just build it"
  16. Any idea as to how well the Squadron canopy would fit the Matchbox kit?
  17. You know, I just went back to the one book I was poking through (Model Art #290) and after looking at some more pics of 109s (for anyone with this book, pages 53, 54 are a couple to see this), I am wondering if the scoop thing is also caused by the size of the latches - too tall perhaps??? I ask this because on those pages, if you look at the position of the top of the inside of the scoop, it does line up with the top of the latch (just as Hasegawa molded it on their kit), but you can tell the scoop is still sitting a little too high up there. Oh well, now I am sucking the fun out of this As Uncle Rick has told me several times, "just build it" - and I think I will.
  18. Hey Mike, thanks for the info (and you're not raining on my parade!). I like to get feedback/input like this as it helps me to learn something new as well. And of course I grabbed a couple of my 109 books to have a look and I see what exactly you mean. Now none of this takes away from the quality of the Parts-R-Parts set and I do agree with you on the position of the scoop. Now that being said, I still feel that the Parts R Parts set is still answer as it offers the best solution / comprimise to the problem with the minimal amount of work (for me, that would be trying to rescribe the oil filler cap ). You're right about the back scoop sitting too high, but I think even if you lowered it (roughly equal with the latch in front of it from what I can see in the pics I looked at), you'd still wind up with a stepped look for those scoops, far less noticable, but still there. The front scoop would still need to be moved up a "smidge" ( ). From there the oil filler cap would also have to still be relocated and rescribed accordingly. I guess it boils down to what one considers acceptable, eh?
  19. Sorry if this is old hat to those who've been at 1/32 for any length of time... I recently started building 1/32 (well collecting is probably more of an accurate statement for the time being), specifically Bf.109s and have been GOGGLING the net looking for info and aftermarket bits to tweak the Hasegawa kit. One thing that has been mentioned is the error Hasegawa made with respect to the air scoops on the nose of their G variant. Instead of being straight in line with one another, the front one is stepped down a little. Not a major thing, but certainly a bit of a nuisance and noticable, especially in 1/32. As such, I figured I'd just have to live with Hasegawa's little faux pas. That is til I read a review that made mention of a company called Parts-R-Parts. A little GOOGLING and within a few minutes I found their website. These fine folks offer the perfect solution to a couple of problems with the 1/32 Hasegawa kit (depending on which G variant you might be doing). They offer two style of "nose fixes" - one for the earlier G-6s and one for the later style G-10/14s and Ks (the position of the oil filler cap is higher up on the nose). The air scoop problem solved - hands down! Another little item they offer deals with the shape ofthe flange around the super charger intake for the G2/4 variants (something that I discovered being over looked on many 109s - don't get me wrong, it never donned on me til I saw this correction piece and started taking a good look myself! I'm just as guilty ) The pictures of their product on the website do not do these little gems justice! I ordered several of each piece and was more than satisfied upon receipt. Each piece was perfectly cast, no air bubbles what so ever and each piece came individually packaged in a plastic container (similiar idea to what Eagle Cals uses for their resin bits). The "nose fix" is the perfect solution to Hasegawa's error and I think that even though there is a little more removal of plastic involved, it is a more desirable solution and will actually be the more simple. It is designed with the kit in mind, so once in place, you can continue assembly without any additional work or major mods to make it work with the propeller housing assembly. As for customer service, top notch as well, my email inquiries were answered quickly and informatively. I received my items quickly as well as securely packaged to survive their trip through the mail system! I've already ordered a few more for my Bf.109G kits. A big thumbs up to these folks for offering such a great product!
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