1/18 scale Lockheed Martin F-16CJ Fighting Falcon Block 52 HAF

[Nick_Karatzides]

CHAPTER III - Engine's afterburner area construction

 

Starting to work behind the engine's last stage blades and the afterburner's spoked frame, I had to simulate in scale the inner embossed detail on the afterburner's area. Following the exact blueprint plans of the T.O service manual used for the real F-16 and after converting numbers to 1/18 scale, I did calculate the AB area dimensions, cut a piece of plastic card, fold it to cylinder and reinforce it externally with plastic bands, to ensure that it'll keep in shape. This cylinder is the base to host the inner embossed detail on the afterburner's area. As soon as the base cylinder was ready, I opened randomly more than 30 holes, using a 2mm drill - the reason will be explained into following lines.

 

 

Having a couple of different methods in mind to simulate in scale the inner embossed detail on the afterburner's area, but knowing that the following method is much accurate to scale and easier to re-do if something goes wrong, I tried a visit into my local PC store and searched for a cable tape used into PCs to connect the motherboard with the HDs or CD/DVDs etc and transfer data between them. I found a plenty of PC cable tapes, but I finally got one with intense embossed detail between the cable lines. After calculating the base cylinder's inner circumference, I cut the brand new cable tape on exact length, sprayed it with light gray base coat and placed it carefully into the cylinder, trying to avoid folding marks on the cable tape surface.

 

Edited August 19, 2018 by Nick_Karatzides

[Nick_Karatzides]

After placing the cable tape into the base cylinder without spreading clue, I pressed it against the plastic using my thumb, to eliminate any possible bumps or waves that may appeared. Thank to accurate calculations the cable tape ends, came exactly one against the other, almost in a perfect facing touch. To secure the cable tape in this place, I dropped CA glue through the opened holes on plastic.

 

Edited August 19, 2018 by Nick_Karatzides

[Nick_Karatzides]

Edited August 19, 2018 by Nick_Karatzides

[Nick_Karatzides]

IMHO simple techniques and sometimes unconventional methods, result in superior effects, I usually do not use enamel or acrylic paint to wash, because I feel risky when applying the paint mixture and let it run. I prefer an easier technique that can be undone if the results are poor - that makes it the perfect technique. I use hard chalk pastels to wash (NOT oil pastels). The hard chalk pastels, look like a teacher would use on the blackboard in school. Do not use the soft oil pastels that artist use to draw on paper. The hard chalk pastels are easy to find in a variety of colors into your local art store or maybe Wal-Mart if in US or ASDA if in UK.

 

To do the wash, I use an X-acto knife, a small metal or plastic container, an old brush, dish washing soap and a bit of water. Begin by scraping some chalk powder from the side of the chalk pastel stick, carefully put this chalk powder into the small container and add a tiny amount of water and stir. It is important to add a tiny amount of water in order to make the mixture look like mud - not like soup! For this reason, I use a syringe to add just few drops on the hard chalk pastel powder and I stir using the old brush. Because the chalk powder doesn't mix well with the water, a drop of dish washing soap is needed to break the surface tension of the water and also acts as a "glue" to help the chalk powder stick to the model.

 

Edited August 19, 2018 by Nick_Karatzides

[LSP_Kevin]

This is some astounding work Nick! Great problem-solving too, not to mention lateral thinking. Oh, and modelling skills.

 

Kev

[SteveM]

Real Nice!!!

[Guest Rigor]

WOW, nice work!!

[Menelaos]

I was thought that I was crazy trying to rebuild the 1:18 monsters.... but I'm not alone!!!

 

 

omg!!!! That is the perfection of modeling work!!!!

 

 

GREAT JUST GREAT!!!!!!!!!

 

 

(nase kala!...

[Nick_Karatzides]

Once the chalk is fully dissolved into the water/soap mixture it is time to "paint" this mixture on the inner embossed detail on the afterburner's area. "Painting" the mixture is simple - just apply it anywhere it is needed to darken recessed detail. The mixture can be applied carelessly, because any mistakes can be completely removed and redone.

 

 

When the chalk wash dried, I rubbed off the high spots with a slightly damp dry (not wet) Q-Tip cotton swab (Kleenex papers can be also used) and I wiped the dark color from the areas should be light colored. The high spots were cleaned to the basic finish and the low spots were left black. I did the chalk wash on the inner embossed detail on the afterburner's area in about 15 minutes which makes it a very quick and effective technique. You can also read about this into Steve Bamford's article, by clicking HERE.

 

Some of the wash mixture is re-applied and the wash being wiped completely out of the narrow points. If you follow this method, it is adviced to not rinse out the wash container till you are finished this job. You will probably be touching up certain spots a few times, so it helps if you're not mixing up a new chalk mixture each time because you kept cleaning out your container of the chalk wash mixture. I repeated the the wash process with lighter colors where needed. Using micro cotton batons found into cosmetic shop for less than £1 GBP, I applied some lighter colors such as yellow, white, sand, brown, burned iron etc & also black chalk pastel powder on the inner embossed detail on the afterburner's area, to make it look weathered and extensively used. I repeated the weathering process until it satisfied me and finally I sprayed a clear coat to seal the chalk powder in place.

 

Edited August 19, 2018 by Nick_Karatzides

[Barry]

Brilliant Work !!!!!!!!

 

Barry

[Nick_Karatzides]

 

The F-16's hot air exhaust of the ECS (Environment Condition System) comes in two different shapes. The old A/B types come with small cover. Here is the way it is covered nowdays on newest Block 52s F-16C/D. The basic shape of the ECS cover made by plastic card and the air exhaust detail will be added later.

 

Edited August 19, 2018 by Nick_Karatzides

[Nick_Karatzides]

CHAPTER IV - Main landing gear bay construction

 

The main landing gear bay of this toy is so simple and looks so unreal. I realized that I had to pay much more attention and start scratchbuilding the area, starting from zero. The main landing gear bay is one of the most complex areas on the real F-16 and I had to simulate it on this 1/18 scale model. I did the dimension calculations, sand the outer surface of the air intake tube carefully, cut pieces of styrene plastic card as required and placed them to start the bay's shape.

 

Edited August 19, 2018 by Nick_Karatzides

[Nick_Karatzides]

Edited August 19, 2018 by Nick_Karatzides

[Nick_Karatzides]

Using 0.75mm drill, a single hole opened on the air intake tube, to later host a pitot sensor which is normally can be found just before the engine's intake fan. This drilling should be done now, before connecting the main landing gear bay construction with lower part of F-16's surface and the pitot sensor will be placed later.

 

 

The air intake case, connected with the lower surface with CA super glue and the huge (approximately 2mm wide) gaps were filled with epoxy cream. I prefer to use epoxy putty (or polyester filler with fiberglass grains for special purposes) instead of normal scale modeling putty, to close gaps or build new items, because:

• Becomes solid rock within only few minutes or seconds,
• Does not shrink and does not crack after months or years,
• Can take any shape but need to work fast because as soon as mixed with catalyst cream approx 5%, the time before becomes solid rock is limited,
• Possible to apply additional layers of epoxy or polyester filler to build up,
• Can sand it, can drill it, can use any type of scale modeling glue, any type of primer or enamel / acrylic paint on it with no problem,
• Available at your local hardware store into 250ml, 500ml, 1lt (comes with a tube of catalyst hardener) or bigger canisters and finally...
• Cheaper than dirt - estimated prices are £3 to £10 GBP depending the canister size, the quality, if contains fiberglass grains for maximum strenght etc.

Keep in mind that the chemical reaction after mixing the filler with the catalyst hardener, produces some heat that possibly effect on thin plastic parts, so test it first before try it on your scale model. I don’t think that the produced heat is more than Fahrenheit 110, but better watchout.

 

Remember that epoxy materials are dangerous when breath or shallow and could result skin, eyes or lungs problems or even cancer when used for long period with no precaution measures. Always keep in mind, that a powerful vacuum system to suck away the epoxy dust should be used all time to keep the workbench area clean while sanding or milling epoxy or resin materials. Using an issued breathing mask and a pair of surgery latex gloves to prevent dust contact with lungs and fingers while sanding or milling epoxy, is also an important matter that you should seriously take care of! My recommendation is to also wear an overall working suit (as I do) to keep your clothes dust free while sanding epoxy. Some people might find it too much, but I wouldn't like to bring epoxy dust & grains from my work bench into living room and my beloved.

 

 

The main landing gear bay basic lines were copied from the T.O manual, lined out with green ink marker and later cut 'n' drilled from white plastic card. Blueprint copies enlarged to 1/18 scale, were used to cut the possessors on exact shape & size and later set into place.

 

Edited August 19, 2018 by Nick_Karatzides

[mschoo]

uh oh, no piccies...

mike