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1/32 Texan/Harvard down Under


SirBlueHenry

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On the 1/32 Harvard I am thinking of doing a reverse assembly in the sense that the cockpit willnot be done first. Fuselage and wings assembly can be completed and cockipt can be inserted afterwards - convenient since I have a nice big hole for side access.

 

that allows 2 things

I can make progress on the airframe immediately

and secondly I can take my time on the cockpit - rather than rush it just to be able to slot it in.

 

The only downside - which is not a big deal ( he says confidently) is that the order of assembly of the cockpit changes in that i cant do it all in 1 subassembly and fit it in afterwards - it has to go in piece by piece.

 

SO - the only bits i really do have to get in place before I can glue fuselage halves together, are the rear bulkhead pieces - which is next on the list

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Rear bulkhead pieces, cut from the single piece. I will not be facing them as you see them here, but veversing them and drilling new holes and so on, as required as these are not accurate to the At-6D I am building. I have no idea if they are accurrate for any version of Texan.

13495074223_3c09c7db2d_b.jpg

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Little tag bits cut off one side of the frame so far - looks much better now.

I will still do the other side.

Also - luckily for me - building with a side panel open - the outer side of the frame is the better side of the moulding.

All the ejector pim marks are facing the inside of the cockpit - which is really not good from a model production point of view, but as I say, happens to play in my favour for this build.

13494963725_ddc678dc47_b.jpg

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Wings glued together - actually very good part of the model. everything fitted perfectly. DONT forget the landing lights. I almost did. They only fit one way - so take a bit of care dry fitting. The actual lenses themselves are not that accurate. Both side show 2 lights. The real aircraft has large landing light lenses in each side - pretty Central - not like on the model. but more importantly - only 1 side has the red pass light. I didnt bother removing the duplicate pass light on the other side - but i will not paint it red. I have photos - will add soon.13495313724_05687e4980_b.jpg

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To be honest - the sizes of the lenses are probably Ok. The landing light should just be more central, and only 1 side has the pass light - the smaller red light and its almost not visible head on - you have to look in from the side to see it. Anyway - This is one of the areas im not bothering much with so happy just to glue the pieces in  and thats that.

Just dont forget them - if you glue your wing halves together and forget the landing lights- you have a slight problem on your hands - but there would be ways of dealing with that. 13494962595_c9695f2cb3_b.jpg

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The landing light should just be more central, and only 1 side has the pass light - the smaller red light and its almost not visible head on - you have to look in from the side to see it.

 

I noticed that as well and considered slicing off the lens mount (the actual light) and placing onto a new spar.  Doing so allows for better placement of both types of light.  I am following with great interest.

 

Regards,

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If you are going to insert into a new spar - which sounds great, then also note that the Pass light is angled towards the fuselage. In which case you may want to slice off BOTH the smaller lights and create a new pass light within the LE - almost hidden, but able to be seen when you view at an angle.

I will look for pics and put up what I have

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Oh - I forgot to mention, and it has been stated elsewhere, the propeller blades are not that accurrate, but not noticeable unless you look for it. I am not going to bother doing a full analysis of the prop otherwise I will never make progress in other areas, got to save time somewhere. But despite being a bit wrong - I think its quite passable.

If you really want to get into the details of it, then

The current position of the blades - does not correspond to the current angle of the blades.

when the piston is fully in - as on the model, then the blades are fully course. This corresponds with the normal position when the engine is shutdown.

But of course you could easily modify the assembly and build the blades at any angle you felt like. I just built the standard assembly

Oh - almost forgot.

depending on the blade angle, and piston angle - you would also need to cater for different positions of the counterweights, which look a bit small to me. I think they need to be bigger!

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