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1/32 Trumpeter P-38 with Oil Canning


Kelly

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OK, call me daft but what is oil canning? 40 years in this hobby and I've never heard that term.

 

The term comes from the maritime world. Some ships, like destroyers, displayed oil canning of their hull panels after theay had been pounded in by the sea, leaving the structure members standing proud behind the hull metal panels. Not quite the same physical reasons with stressed-skinned aircrafts, but close in trems of visual aspect ...

 

Hubert

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p38_wip_pit_07.jpg

 

Very nice work! One observation before you close up in there: those shoulder straps - or at least their buckles - need to be reversed left and right (in use, those two vertical sections meet together and then the lap strap buckle passes through them).

 

Simon

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A small update.

 

The wheel wells are pretty basic - or at least the nose one is.

It shouldn't be too much of an issue though as I don't think I will be lifting this monster much once it's done.

I added a few rivets here and there to busy it up a tiny bit, but being a beginner, I am not even thinking about scratch building.

Strictly out of the box for me.

 

This first photo I got the white balance all wrong. I tried to fix it in Photoshop, but it still hurts the eyes a tad. Sorry about that :)

Second one is more naturalistic.

 

p38_wip_well_01.jpg

 

p38_wip_well_02.jpg

 

Cheers,

 

Kels.

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Very nice work! One observation before you close up in there: those shoulder straps - or at least their buckles - need to be reversed left and right (in use, those two vertical sections meet together and then the lap strap buckle passes through them).

 

Simon

Doh! I should have looked at the instructions more closely.

Damn!

Thanks for the insight, Simon.

Kels.

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Helloo,

Here are the tentative beginnings of my fairly hokey and still developing oil canning/stressed skin process.

I painted the areas I want to bulge with two layers of fairly thick paint.

I will now sand it back gently then glue on aluminium foil on the areas that are flat. It will all get painted, so I won't foil the curvey tricky bits. They will just get sanded and painted. The panel lines and rivets will be cut into the aluminium and re-riveted where required.

The rivets may need to be done one by one (sigh). I will try the rivet wheel, but it probably wont match the kit rivets, so not quite sure how to approach it yet.

 

p38_wip_Can_01.jpg

 

The pictures below are some tests I did on a 1/48 kit. It is quite difficult to pick up the bulges with the camera. They stand out in real life, in fact, keeping them subtle enough is the challenge.

I think the riveting is a bit bold, so will sand them back after I have vanished the aluminium paint.

 

p38_wip_Can_02.jpg

 

p38_wip_Can_03.jpg

 

p38_wip_Can_04.jpg

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A small update.

 

The wheel wells are pretty basic - or at least the nose one is.

It shouldn't be too much of an issue though as I don't think I will be lifting this monster much once it's done.

I added a few rivets here and there to busy it up a tiny bit, but being a beginner, I am not even thinking about scratch building.

Strictly out of the box for me.

 

This first photo I got the white balance all wrong. I tried to fix it in Photoshop, but it still hurts the eyes a tad. Sorry about that :)

Second one is more naturalistic.

 

p38_wip_well_01.jpg

 

p38_wip_well_02.jpg

 

Cheers,

 

Kels.

All looking super. Doing a great job i t's really un-canny (pun intended). One question, what did you use to weather the front landing leg ? Great match, looks very real......Harv :popcorn:

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All looking super. Doing a great job i t's really un-canny (pun intended). One question, what did you use to weather the front landing leg ? Great match, looks very real......Harv :popcorn:

Thanks Harv,

The landing leg was done pretty much how I do all my painting. It is a system I am still working on which has been developing organically:

Over the base colour I lay down a wash of black mixed with gloss varnish and water, probably a ratio of around 1-4-6 respectively. Enough to make the indents and channels dark, but not enough to really effect the open areas too much. I dab at the open areas to "pull" the brush strokes out of it, and create variations. The varnish seems to hold the paint in the recesses as opposed to straight paint and water which pools unpleasantly.

Following this I lay down liberal washes of very watered down brown (no varnish). I scumble the brown around, sometimes drying the brush to "lift" pigment and adding more where required. Maybe it is called wet on wet? I keep doing this until I get the result I'm after. By now the black will be softened significantly. I got my finest brush and picked out all the deep grooves, and recesses in straight black to make it ping (I only do this outlining on really deep, sharp areas like wells, and cockpit areas, not on most areas of the model). Once dry-ish I scraped various hues of pastel chalk (black, brown and mustard) and liberally brushed them over the whole lot. The odd areas that haven't dried completely help by mixing with the chalk and creating little muddy sections.

And that is pretty much it.

 

It is a pretty rough and ready approach and I tend to backtrack and re-do areas that I'm not content with.

 

I hope this helps, and thanks again for the kind feedback.

 

Kels.

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Another small WIP.

I sanded back the primer and airbrushed a coat of aluminium paint.

It turned out ok, but I will need to sand back a couple of areas again to get rid of some ugly spots.

I will then give it another thin coat, before varnishing, and weathering, etc.

Overall I think it is fairly subtle, but I think on a whole model it will be quite noticeable, so definitely need to keep it as unobtrusive as possible.

As is often the case the photos don't quite pick everything up (need to work on my photography skills).

My big question is how the foiled sections will marry with the un-foiled sections. I am a bit worried that the rivets will look too different.

Speaking of rivets, they are really large on this model. For my taste a bit too heavy. I will try to knock them back in general I think.

 

After sanding:

 

p38_wip_Can_07.jpg

 

p38_wip_Can_06.jpg

 

p38_wip_Can_05.jpg

 

After a coat of Vellejo aluminium:

 

p38_wip_Can_08.jpg

 

p38_wip_Can_09.jpg

 

Cheers,

 

Kels.

 

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