csavaglio Posted October 30, 2012 Share Posted October 30, 2012 I tried to remove the tabs that Revell molded into their unfortunately designed canopy setup for the Arado. That went well enough until trying to glue them together. Bottom line, does anyone know if there is a vac replacement out there for it? I'm not sure how long it'd take to get a replacement sprue from Revell. Thank you Chris Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ladder4boy Posted October 30, 2012 Share Posted October 30, 2012 Haven't heard of a vac replacement as of yet, as one is very much needed! was hoping maybe someone would try to do one in clear resin, but don't think that's gonna happen either. I had to order a replacement sprue from Revell for my JU-88 as it had a line of black plastic than ran through the entire clear sprue. I contacted them through here.. http://www.revell.com/support/parts.html and clicked the "online parts request" tab near the bottom.. filled in the info, and recieved it in the mail in around 7 business days. No questions asked, didn't have to send in the old sprue or anything. was mjuch easier than i had anticipated. When i glued the canopy on mine, i dipped the individual parts in future first, then lightly sanded the mating edges with a 800 grit sanding stick, and glued it with future and positioned it to dry overnight.. then dunked the whole thing in future again the next day. You can't see the glue line unless you hold it under a magnifying lamp, but i can't vouch for the future stability of the, uhm, future. Good luck! cheers, Jerry A340 Pilot 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Ta152H1 Posted October 30, 2012 Share Posted October 30, 2012 Hi Chris, my "remedy" has been a more radical one...I've taken PU resin copies of the Revell parts,glued them together and then I did get rid of those unsightly mating edges.Once I was satisfied I used the assembled resin copy of the original canopy as a master and cast a few copies in veeeeeeeeeeeeeery slooooooooooooow curing clear 50/50 PU resin! Cheers Lou Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kagemusha Posted October 30, 2012 Share Posted October 30, 2012 (edited) Mirek posted in the HpH thread, post #311 http://forum.largesc...300#entry409688 that he would be happy to sell parts for their Arado kit for those that wanted to use on the Revell, why not send him a pm? http://www.hphmodels.cz/index.php?VypisKategorii=23 Edited October 30, 2012 by Kagemusha nmayhew 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Ta152H1 Posted October 30, 2012 Share Posted October 30, 2012 Mirek posted in the HpH thread, post #311 http://forum.largesc...300#entry409688 that he would be happy to sell parts for their Arado kit for those that wanted to use on the Revell, why not send him a pm? http://www.hphmodels...pisKategorii=23 Yes...that would the easiest option...if Mirek would be willing to sell "detailing sets" strraight off his ABSOLUTELY GORGEOUS 196 that would be great! Cheers Lou Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
csavaglio Posted October 31, 2012 Author Share Posted October 31, 2012 I wonder how well the HPH clear parts would fit. I ordered another clear sprue from the Revell site. They claim up to 12 weeks for RoG parts......maybe the 88 was quick cause its produced by Revell USA too.....hopefully its fast. Lou, if you wanted to sell off a set of canopies, I'd be happy to pay....... I'm not happy with the big alignment tabs visible and thats what I originally set out to get rid of. They still may turn out ok with a bit of work and some future. Thanks for the help, guys! C Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
miamiangler Posted October 31, 2012 Share Posted October 31, 2012 (edited) If you can you can cast your own . I did it with the HPH kit I got . I also went that root with ordering extra clear parts from Revell .After removing the tabs it still did not look right .The Future helps alittle but still some of the tabs can be seen .Besides the back part of the Revel canopy is not right shape anyway . If you look at my post on my Arado 196. I hope this helps .I you need more info PM me Willi Edited October 31, 2012 by miamiangler Derek B 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Ta152H1 Posted October 31, 2012 Share Posted October 31, 2012 As I said...first you take copies of the kit's parts,assemble them as per instructions,get rid of any unwanted seam or other unwanted seam/mark/unameit,cast a second master of the modified,"cleaned-up" canopy and you're good to go.Simply casting copies of the assembled parts without taking care of the tabs is pointless IMO...they'll be part of the casting and that's it! Chris...I unfortunately haven't the mold anymore and the ten or so canopies I've made are long gone to friends,or else I'd have been more than happy to send you one!If you take the resin route yourself be sure to get the slowest-curing clear resin you can buy.The one I use has a pot life of several hours and that's VITAL to avoid airbubbles entrapped in the resin..it's a nice feature especially if you don't own or have access to a vacuum pump! This method is great to make clear parts,especially copies of canopies sanded down to more scale-thickness /thinness or other scratchbuilt parts...last time I've used this method has been last month,when building a 1/48 Hobby Boss Me262 A1a-U3...the windows for the cameras are of the wrong shape and made of gray styrene! Cheers Lou Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
csavaglio Posted October 31, 2012 Author Share Posted October 31, 2012 I'll give it a shot. Getting rid of the tabs is what got me into trouble in the first place. I've done a fair bit of casting, but never clear. I'd be worried about bubbles under the surface. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Ta152H1 Posted October 31, 2012 Share Posted October 31, 2012 I'll give it a shot. Getting rid of the tabs is what got me into trouble in the first place. I've done a fair bit of casting, but never clear. I'd be worried about bubbles under the surface. Chris...get yourself a slow-curing (and when I say slow I MEAN that!) clear resin,mix it thoroughly but slowly in a plastic cup,let the airbubbles come to the surface leaving the mixed resin alone for as long as it's necessary and then pour it (yes,you've guessed it....SLOWLY!) into the mold.If I were you I'd secure the master to a fairly large base,in order to squeeze the mold several times as if it was a lung without running the risk of having "new" bubbles trapped inside the undercuts (if any)! Getting rid of the tabs is simpole...I'd try to avoid screwing them up by making resin molds of them on which I could work,like I've done with mine,then assemble the canopy and give it the final shape!A good scratchbuilder may as well go all the way and scratchbuild the sliding part in the first place,but option #1 (resin copies of the "corrected" kit's parts) is the one which IMO will either be the easiest and the fastest! HTH Lou Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
miamiangler Posted October 31, 2012 Share Posted October 31, 2012 (edited) I use a pressure pot ,( Used for painting) you can get it in Home Depot. I use it to get the bubbles out of the RTV rubber and resin . I red line it to 60PSI ! works just as good as a vaccum pump just cheaper .the Alumilite gives you plenty of time 6-8 min . before you pour the resin heat the mold not the resin ! in the microwave for 90sec it helps .. Also dont be in a hurry to pull the pieces out of the mold to soon . the clear resin cures slowly and takes awhile to harden .It took me a few trys till I got it right ! Here`s a small glass I cast for my 1/48 th Lloyd C.V which I scratchbuilt Willi Edited October 31, 2012 by miamiangler Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nmayhew Posted October 31, 2012 Share Posted October 31, 2012 So I take it no-one has tried the HPH parts on the Revell kit? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Ta152H1 Posted November 1, 2012 Share Posted November 1, 2012 (edited) I use a pressure pot ,( Used for painting) you can get it in Home Depot. I use it to get the bubbles out of the RTV rubber and resin . I red line it to 60PSI ! works just as good as a vaccum pump just cheaper .the Alumilite gives you plenty of time 6-8 min . before you pour the resin heat the mold not the resin ! in the microwave for 90sec it helps .. Also dont be in a hurry to pull the pieces out of the mold to soon . the clear resin cures slowly and takes awhile to harden .It took me a few trys till I got it right ! Here`s a small glass I cast for my 1/48 th Lloyd C.V which I scratchbuilt Willi Yeah....the Pressure Pot.....the Columbus' egg ! :BANGHEAD2: :BANGHEAD2: :BANGHEAD2: :BANGHEAD2: Oh..right....the resin I use is water-clear but it takes plenty of time before hardening...I poke the pouring stub with a stick to make sure but I usually wait 24 hours before even thinking about taking the piece out of the mold! Ta for the tip Willi Cheers Lou Edited November 1, 2012 by Ta152H1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
miamiangler Posted November 1, 2012 Share Posted November 1, 2012 Yep I do the same stick poking the stub Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
miamiangler Posted November 1, 2012 Share Posted November 1, 2012 So I take it no-one has tried the HPH parts on the Revell kit? I am going to start back on my Arado 196 as soon as I finish up my WWI project on Swannysmodels .com .In a week or so .Then I will be mounting the HPH Canopy on my Revell 196 . the canopies have cured for weeks now so should be nice and ready Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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