GVINCENT Posted October 31, 2008 Share Posted October 31, 2008 Does anyone have an opinion on how to address the step at the bottom? From my own test fitting, it appears the cowl assembly needs to be raised. Would you simply sand/file the bottom of the male plug for the engine/cowl assembly or is there a tried and true method anyone can share? Thanks! Gary V. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johng Posted October 31, 2008 Share Posted October 31, 2008 There was a thread about this a few months ago. The step is supposed to be there and there were pics of actual aircraft to back that up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
didiumus Posted October 31, 2008 Share Posted October 31, 2008 Gary, Tom Cleaver over at Modeling Madness addresses this in several build articles over there. He has built at least four of these, take a look. Here are some links. HTH, Scott Gentry http://www.modelingmadness.com/reviews/all...ver/tmc3247.htm http://www.modelingmadness.com/reviews/all...er/tmc3247d.htm http://www.modelingmadness.com/reviews/all...ver/tmcp47m.htm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChrisS Posted October 31, 2008 Share Posted October 31, 2008 I used a small shim and some carefull grinding. I know I took pictures of this, I'll check at home this weekend and see if I can post something here. It's an easy fix. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ads Posted October 31, 2008 Share Posted October 31, 2008 There IS a step there in real life - but nothing like to scale as what the kit is - it is just wrong and i dont know why this isnt brought up as an issue. :angry: I think the only way to do it - or an easier way - is to assemble it with a slight - 1mm or so - extra filling part. so it will be just that little bit bigger. Include in this a bit of sanding to the bottom of the forward fuselage. Quite like what Chris just said i suppose. Ads Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Copperhead Posted October 31, 2008 Share Posted October 31, 2008 The step in the kit is way overscale. I sawed off the stub, replaced the kerf with styrene sheet and reattached the stub in the appropriate location. Probably a more complicated solution than necessary, but there are detailed pictures in the Member Builds forum if you are interested. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mhorina Posted October 31, 2008 Share Posted October 31, 2008 Copperhead has the right idea. After removing the mount from the fuselage I used .010 sheet to cover the hole in the fuselage. The complete cowl with the kit flaps of your choice is mounted to the removed stub and then glued back on in the position you are comfortable with. Really not that hard. But as always dry fit, dry fit some sanding to clean up the cut will be necessary but in reality very easy. I have only one build in the Member builds forum and it is the Hase 32nd P-47 using this approach. Try here http://forum.largescaleplanes.com/index.ph...&hl=mhorina HTH Mike Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fcuevas Posted October 31, 2008 Share Posted October 31, 2008 This may help. I had the same question as you and found the fix shown below, but I don't recall in which website. Hope this helps. Regards, Fred ------------------------------------------------------------------------- "What I did to correct this on my kit was to cut off the engine/cowl flap mount with a jewelers saw. This is all of a couple of minutes as you carefully cut around the mount whilst rotating the fuselage. The wings are not in the way if mounted, like my kit. Before cutting, mark the lower cowling and fuselage with a reference point for proper repositioning. This is not necessary on the topside as one of the cowl louver panel lines is in-line with the fuselage seam. I then glued a piece of .010" plastic card to the back of the severed mount to make up for the width of plastic removed by the saw and to also provide a good solid mount. I pushed the mount into cowl louver part B20, pushed this into the previously assembled front cowling, ran tube glue around the plastic card and stuck it on. Make sure your reference points are lined up and the Mk.I eyeball is all that is required to line up the vertical. You may need to trim slightly (very slightly )on the underside of part B20 ( or A19 for that matter if selecting open cowl flaps )for clearance of the oil cooler intakes, part B7." Soory I didn't include images. Couldn't figure how. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChrisS Posted November 1, 2008 Share Posted November 1, 2008 I found a picture of the shim I used on the underside of the cowling. HTH Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GVINCENT Posted November 1, 2008 Author Share Posted November 1, 2008 I found a picture of the shim I used on the underside of the cowling. HTH Thanks everyone! Chris I assume this is the bottom of the cowl and you filled any seams on the sides that the shim created? I wish I had read this yesterday! I was fooling around with the cowl yesterday and the brand new x-acto blade slipped. I stabbed myself pretty good in my left pinky finger. It was still light out here so I couldn't use the excessive amount of blood to good halloween effect! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChrisS Posted November 1, 2008 Share Posted November 1, 2008 Yes this is the bottom piece. This shim does not affect the fit of the cowl pieces to themselves, only the fit of the cowl as a whole to the fuselage. Hope your finger gets better soon!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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