Impatient Pete Posted June 16, 2006 Author Share Posted June 16, 2006 Really nice work. You are making me want to reserrect my F 4 J. My J is nearly wooped, but I droped it and all the work I did in the Intake cracked. I now have some fod covers, but I can not bring myself to use them lol. I think it can be phixed. Anyway, which bird are you doing?? You need to look close as the last 12 or 18 rf4 bs produced had the "thick" wing. S! Oh man that is rough. Which FOD covers are you using? What did you do to the intakes. I almost hate to ask, guessing that it is a sore subject now . Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Impatient Pete Posted June 16, 2006 Author Share Posted June 16, 2006 I realised that I hadn't set up the rear deck correctly and that the deck should be flush with the rear bulkhead and sills, and that the two rear sides (the little raised continuing sections of the outer skins if the fuselage) should be thin and stick up from the deck itself. So I got the saw out and spent an hour making the correction. I like this new arrangement better because the parts mate to the kit parts better with minimal fuss and cutting and trimming. Then to add the details like the pressure seals and misc. Next is the rear bulkhead detail and sidewalls. Hope ya like it... Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stusbke Posted June 18, 2006 Share Posted June 18, 2006 Like it nah I LOVE it would it be possible to have some more shots on the rear deck, also will you be putting cables on there too? PS i hope you dont mind me using this a ref for mine would you? Greetz STB Frederick Jacobs Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Impatient Pete Posted June 18, 2006 Author Share Posted June 18, 2006 Thanks Stusbke, Yes, I will be adding the cables and a few more details, then I will do the rear bulkhead. I am going to try to make the sills today. We'll see how it goes. Oh, and I will post a few more pics today too. Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ironwing Posted June 19, 2006 Share Posted June 19, 2006 Yo're making this very tempting... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob Colvin Posted June 19, 2006 Share Posted June 19, 2006 The fod cover I have are the ones Cam did in res. As far as the intake..... I built the tube from the Tamyia kit, cut the part of the intake away from the fuselage and assembled that to the tube; fairing it in of coares. I then measured were the "intake would mount to the outter part that glues to fuselage. I glued that together using a large amount of filler and sheet plastic to finish the job. I test fitted, and was pleased wit the result. I got everything painted up, only to drop one intake. It hit the floor and the internals cracked. It can be repaired but I may turn my attention to a fresh start F 4e. Perhaps a 105. Great work!!!!!! S! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boness Posted June 20, 2006 Share Posted June 20, 2006 Nice rear deck. Which kit is this, it looks alot like the Revell kit? jim Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Impatient Pete Posted June 20, 2006 Author Share Posted June 20, 2006 Yep, it's the Revell RF-4C kit. I've always wanted an RF-4B and this is the "easiest" way. Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Impatient Pete Posted June 21, 2006 Author Share Posted June 21, 2006 Hi Guys, Got a little work done on the sills tonight. Not much. I based them on the tamiya versions. I measured them and made a sketch and then drew them in Illustrator. Then I printed them on sticker material and cut them out with a fresh blade. I thought they were a little thin so I added an extra layer. Next will be to cut out the breaker panels on the port side and glue that to the underside of the sill so that it forms one single component. The rear end of the seal should line up with the part coming down from the deck, so I may redo them, but for now, the plan is to leave them. Keep it up F-4 GB! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stusbke Posted June 21, 2006 Share Posted June 21, 2006 Hey thats a great idea mmm I think im going to rebuild mine now a bit you made me change my mind I like you work pete looks kickass And yes im hope to have an update too its not grand work here that still has to come(Slats need to be build and nose wheel bay too ) Greetz STB Frederick Jacobs Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Impatient Pete Posted June 23, 2006 Author Share Posted June 23, 2006 Hey GB gang! I made the port sills and circuit breaker panel. I am not convinced about the breaker panel though. I may redo it. Right now it's only double-sided taped in place in case I decide it's not right. Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Impatient Pete Posted June 24, 2006 Author Share Posted June 24, 2006 Hi guys. I spent some time fixing the bad geometry of the breaker panel. Kind of a bummer that the first one is no good. It was a lot of work, but I know I can do better. Now everything fits better and looks more correct. I need some help. Does anyone have good pics of the sidewall area aft of the breaker panel on the RF-4B? I know it's a long shot, but the pics I have end at the aft edge of the breaker panel. Later, Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boness Posted June 24, 2006 Share Posted June 24, 2006 You are right, the second seems to be better. I dont know how many parts I have scraped due to me not liking them. As for the rear wall of the B model, I cant help you, all my stuff is for the C. Your progress is looking good though. jim Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Impatient Pete Posted June 25, 2006 Author Share Posted June 25, 2006 Breaker panel update and tip to share: A quick rundown: I drew the panel in Illustrator Cut it out and double-sided taped it to a piece of styrene taped that to a work surface taped a ruler to a triangle and lined that up with the first row of breakers taped the other ruler to the work surface, aligned with the ruler/triangle combo placed the small ruler on the rows of breakers and center punched the first row of holes slid the triangle/ruler combo down and to the right, which produces a small shift down and stays parallel to the first row Continue center punching until all are done Note that not all of the rows are aligned with each other. Some stagger a bit Does that make any freekin' sense? Pete out Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boness Posted June 26, 2006 Share Posted June 26, 2006 hadnt thought of doing mine that way. I punched out many (i think about 1,000) styrene discks with a punch then glued em on. I do use a similar method for toggle switches though. Looks great, keep pluging away, we all are bound to finish eventually .....maybe jim Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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