Do you clear coat over Tamiya metallic lacquer paints?

[Splatman812]

Always had a phobia about BM finishes. Always used acrylics. Thought the Vallejo metallic series was the answer, but paint lift when masking was constant. Now I tried the Tamiya lacquer and love it!

So here are my questions:

 

1.  Is pre-shading the same with BMF and does it also have to be lacquer?

2. What about washes? Should I clear coat? But if I do that, it would make any panel masked painted different tones (dull, flat, polished, etc) ALL glossy.

3. Since the base is lacquer, can the wash be oil based? Or does a coat of Future negate any concerns?

 

 

 

Any help would be greatly appreciated!

Edited March 23 by Splatman812
grammer

[Juggernut]

I think I can answer your questions based on my experience but I don't use Tamiya metallic lacquer paints.  I use Alclad and/or MRP which are acrylic lacquer (as I think are the Tamiya paint you're asking about) and I do not normally clear coat over the bare metal paint unless I need a flat finish, then I use Testors Dullcote.  So here goes:

 

1. I personally don't preshade bare metal finishes but I've never had any issues when I've mistakenly put preshading where my metal finish would go.  I have post shaded with a dark aluminum shade and while it looked ok, it really wasn't needed.  I've used Tamiya XF-1 (Flat Black), MRP Black, Gunze Mr. Surfacer 1500 (Black) for preshading and never had any issues with it reacting under bare metal.

 

2. and 3. If your paint is acrylic lacquer, an enamel wash (oil) should not hurt the paint.  But before trying it on the model, test on a paint mule or something you won't care if it screws up.  I say that having used MRP and Mr. Color acrylic lacquer paints.  Note that the Tamiya panel line washes work great but they need at least a semi gloss finish (the bare metal finish would absolutely satisfy that requirement) to work well.  I find they tend to absorb into a flat coated area rather than move along a panel line; which is the reason I say semi-gloss finish at the very least. 

 

For the most part, I've forsaken enamel/oil washes for Thunnus' (John's) water-based panel line wash concoction.  He uses pastel chalks shaved into power.  Mix in a drop of dishwashing liquid and then add a few drops of water.  The mix should be thin enough to brush into panel lines and it will run by capillary action (a little bit) along the panel line.  Brush it along panel lines doing only a single section at a time.  Here's the most important part:  Don't wipe the wash immediately after application, wait until the wash is TOTALLY DRY.  Then gently wipe off the excess with a paper towel, napkin, tissue, etc. (obviously lint free is best) with just a slight touch of moisture.  It will remove the dried wash outside the panel line and leave the rest within.  If it doesn't look good, wash it away with water and start over.  Here's the downside:  If you don't overcoat the bare metal with a clear, you run the risk of ruining the panel line wash should anything wet get dripped onto the surface of the model.  Since this is his technique, John may chime in here (if he sees this) and add anything he feels I may have missed or gotten incorrect.  I'm sure he's used it on bare metal and can probably give you pointers on getting successful results.

 

As with anything, try this out on a scrap before putting it on the model.  I made the mistake of putting this water-based wash on a model and left it overnight before removing the wash.  The model had a Future (Klear) clear coat and the wash stained the Future everywhere I had left it on the model.  I have not had that issue with acrylic lacquer clear coats.

 

As a last bit of advice: 

 

WARNING:  DO NOT USE ISOPROPYL ALCOHOL FOR ANYTHING, IT MAY REMOVE THE ACRYLIC LACQUER PAINT.

 

 

 

Edited March 23 by Juggernut

[Splatman812]

Thank you so much-----loads of info! Like the pastel idea. Is it fair to say skip the future and get some acrylic lacquer clear?

 

[LSP_Kevin]

2 hours ago, Splatman812 said:

Is it fair to say skip the future and get some acrylic lacquer clear?

 

 

If your aim is to preserve any metallic shine in the original finish, then avoid acrylic lacquer clears and grab some water-based stuff. I currently use Alclad's Aqua Gloss, but there are others available. By the way, this tip comes from Scott Taylor, the proprietor of SMS paints, who manufactures a superb range of acrylic lacquer paints. He says that the solvents in acrylic lacquer paints will affect the orientation of the reflective particulate in the metal paint, dulling it. Water-based clears don't have this effect, and to that end, Scott is developing one to add to his range. (And for the record, Tamiya X-22 is not a water-based clear, but an alcohol-based one, and will have a similar negative effect.)

 

Kev

[Juggernut]

I did not know that Kev, thanks for that vital tidbit of information.  I may have to get some truly water-based clear and see how it works for me.

[Splatman812]

Thank you Kevin

 

[Splatman812]

I did try some Tamiya panel liner on the lacquer (no coating). It did not go well. It tended to "stain" the finish----further attempts to remove it by buffing just wore off the base coat. Time to give it another try with a coating of Aqua Gloss (thankfully I have some)