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Found 8 results

  1. G'day everyone. Here's my rendition of ICM's I-153. Very nice build. Good detail, nice fit, but their soft, flexible plastic made for interesting alignment of the long thin wings. It's built almost out of the box, eduard etched seatbelts (I wasnt a fan, and will stick to HGWs belts in the future), and Quickboost exhausts. Painted with MRP paints and rigged with EZline. Denzil
  2. Gday everyone, longtime lurker first time (in-progress) poster. I'm using an old photo bucket account for my pictures but am considering different options in the future depending on how the pics look on here. Input and comments welcome. Anyway, the build. Revell's 190s. Fantastic bang for the buck, y'all know what to expect. This one is an OOTB to break in a new airbrush, new paints and some new surface detailing techniques. Some more successfully than others. Construction is fine, plenty of mold lines to clean off, but overall very nice fit. Construction progressed smoothly. And onto the main event. Black primer over everything. Plenty of flaws, but this one has no ambitions of being a contest winner. I've drawn on rivet lines and carved out a stressed skin look, to break up the shiny smooth surfaces. Alclad airframe aluminium down over areas to be chipped later Next up, some fancy MRP paints! Thanks for reading. D
  3. To simulate the authentic visual expression of the natural metal finishing painted P-47D is the goal of this build. I've collected hundreds of late WWII pictures and the restored and still flying P-47D. Here are a few examples that I'm following: This build started with the Hasegawa kit, with limited recessed panel line and the rivets only visible along these panel lines. I've decided to proceed with manually riveting. The Line Drawing was downloaded from theblueprints.com https://www.the-blueprints.com/search/p-47d/ It's my first time of using this set purchased from eBay.com. Unexpected challenges and mistakes were inevitable. Right after the riveting, I'd like to try the metallic brush texture commonly seen on the NMF airplanes. I've applied 1) Alclad II Black Base / Microfiller 2) 400/600 Grit sanding - around the fuselage 3) 600 Grit sanding in the different directions on the wings which been divided into large blocks Apply one more coating, 30% Alclad II Gloss Black Base + 70% Lacquer Thinner Next steps is to apply the main color with the airbrush to each divided panels piece by piece. The main color of this build is 70% Alclad II Duralumin + 30% Mirrow Chrome I don't have the fine resolution of pictures to share at this point. These 2 pics briefly present the idea.
  4. Our club sponsors a 'Build the Same Kit' contest every year, which includes aircraft and armor options so thought to try something different I'd take on a small project : the Trumpeter Bradley M2A2 but dressed in WWII Camo scheme. The kit was very cheap, so why not? The obligatory box art shot: Not a lot of parts to the kit, but a fair amount of interior detail considering the scale and most of it will be covered up: I have interior shots SOMEWHERE but no clue where they went. There are a LOT of seats inside one of these things, but unless you put the read door down and open some hatches, not much to see. I kept the build simple. All closed up - but take my word for it, the full interior is there! So after laying own the German dark yellow base, I started on the Camo scheme. The top two are the schemes I tried to emulate on the Bradley. Lots of details to be picked out after the Vallejo Olive Green is added, antennas to add, muzzle soot, etc. There are a couple of spiders I need to clean up but this is one of my first attempts with the H&S .2 tip (and this is 1/72 scale!) so overall pretty happy with the results. Next a clear gloss to aid in washes. Probably should have painted some of the detail such as the tow cable and jack and even the shovel before applying the camo. Oh well! Chris
  5. Hi guys and gals, I'm contemplating building another P-51D this time from the Pacific or China theater. I know there were some differences in equipment – notably radio and navigation – between the machines used in Europe and those used on the Pacific front. I can also use some input about the F-6D/K recce variant. Will you Mustang fans and experts care to give me some pointers? Thanks a bunch, Quang
  6. Hello all, It's been a while since I have posted; in fact, it's been a while since I've been building. But with encouragement from Peter, I decided to post the rest of this build. I'm sure that almost everyone has read all of the glowing reports about this Tamiya kit. I won't add much to what we already know except to say that my experience has been the same. Everything really does fit amazingly well. It fits so well that in the couple of cases where it didn't, I ultimately found out that it was my fault. So be warned when you build this kit. Dry fit everything and if you find a problem, back step until you find where you went wrong. My only complaint is the it's a vastly over-engineered kit. I think we are all used to building cockpits, for example, where we know that not everything, heck, maybe not hardly anything ends up being visible. But it's still worth it because it's fun. I exceeded my fun factor on this kit when it came to gluing together multiple parts to make the assemblies where the flaps fit into the trailing edge. But, that's just me and I'll get off my soapbox now. In spite of the kit having a beautiful (stunning) engine, I decided to do the Eduard Brassin engine because the visible surface detailing is gorgeous. But, I've waiting till close to the end of the build to get cracking on it. The photo below shows the engine block and front housing as well as one of the cylinders. It's painted gloss black as a prelude to using Alclad Aluminum on the cylinder fins. How, you may ask, am I going to mask each of the cylinders? Well, I got myself some Mr. Mask and some Mr. Mask Neo. The difference between them is ???, but I'm hoping that they will enable me to mask the cylinder heads in a reasonable period of time. The engine also has pushrods (scale) and even spark plugs. I'm going to have to do some careful drilling and fitting. Photo etch for the engine includes a couple of odds and ends and the wiring harness. I'm undecided at this point about using the PE wiring harness. I have some .015 solder which may be closer to a scale look, so I'm going to see what I think and then retreat to the PE, if necessary. There's not a lot to say about the rest of the photos. At this point, the fuselage, center wing, outer wings, horizontal stab and elevators, vertical stab and rudder are all done except for final sanding, polishing, and rescribing. Although not pictured here, the landing gear is complete as well. Remaining to be done are some final sanding and finishing, primer, paint, decals, and final assembly. And, oh yes, the engine and cowl assembly. It's been a lot of fun so far, and I'm hoping you will enjoy the rest of the build with me. John
  7. Before Lewis Lynch served as a Navy Medic in San Francisco, caring for wounded arriving from the Pacific Theater, he worked at the Martin Aircraft Plant in Omaha, Nebraska... He grew up in the Sand Hills of Nebraska and to survive the deprivations of the Great Depression, he and several members of his family migrated to Omaha to scratch out a living in the Martin factory... It was at the Martin facility in Omaha that the B26C Marauder was assembled and later the B29 Superfortress... Lewis was involved in B26C builds... In March 2015, Lewis Lynch will turn 93, and as celebration of his birthday, my 15 year old son Parker and I will assemble a Hasegawa 1/72 B26C and hang it from his ceiling in his home. Lewis Lynch is my son's grandfather... Just below is an archival image of a B25C exiting the assembly plant in Omaha: This will be a straight OOB and clean (I hope) build. Since Lewis only saw brand new versions of the B26C, we do not plan on weathering the plane at all. Here's the Hasegawa kit box and cover art: Not quite as overwhelming as a 1/32 scale Tamiya Superkit, but enough to keep us busy for a while. I've not built a 1/72 scale aircraft since a completely hand-painted Japanese Zero in 1961 and am far more used to working with 1/32 scale, so this will be a different experience. Here's a shot of the kit's contents: This afternoon Parker and I assembled the cockpit and bomb bay... I was actually astonished how quickly this portion of the build went, which is an attribute of the 1/72 scale... Since each of these subassemblies are a single color (mostly Zinc Chromate), we put them together and then I'll airbrush the paint on... here are the initial assemblies: Here is my build partner: And finally, here is the aforementioned Lewis Lynch taken back during the days of WWII: Here is Lewis in a more recent photograph:
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