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Found 11 results

  1. Hi guys, I was recommended this by YouTube, one of the rare occasions they got it right ! Hurribipe?
  2. So this will be my contribution to the Training Day theme. It will be a while before I have substantial work to show, as I need to finish my Zero first, AND I have an airliner kit that I may build in parallel. But I can definitely get it done before the end of February... It's not a complex kit in terms of the plastic, but there's the joy of biplane rigging to consider, as well as the opportunity to detail the engine... And then that color scheme. The kit provides several suggested monotone schemes, but who could resist that two-tone green camo OVER trainer orange? "Eye catching" to say the least. That will be an adventure in masking.
  3. Hey all! I recently picked up the Wingnut Wings re-release of their Pfalz D.IIIa (my favorite WW1 airplane). This is my second WNW ann 1/32 kit, the first being a Roland C.II I built some months ago. I'll be making a Pfalz D.IIIa from Jasta 46. I've yet to decide between one with black and white bands or Rudolf Matthaei's Pfalz. Here is a skin I made of the 3-band skin for IL2: Flying Circus: and Matthaei's pfalz, which had black and white chevrons as a personal marking: My plan is to do as much of the internal piping and wiring as possible. I'll be leaving off all of the covers to show off as much detail as possible. To this end I'll be adding spark plugs, rocker arms and valve spring from Taurus models, LMG08s and turnbuckles from Gaspatch and white metal undercarriage parts from Scale Aircraft conversions. I've also got the decals from WNW's previous pfalz kit so I have various balkenkreuzes and serials to choose from. I started the build a week or two ago, so here is my progress so far. I put in lots of 0.3 and 0.5mm holes to accomodate for pipes and wire I'll be adding to the engine and interior. elevator, throttle and trigger cables added to the control stick: Interior frame and floor put together with fuel lines and grease pipe installed. The oil filter I made from a spare bit of landing gear. Air pump, fuel filter and various other pipes installed Interior weathering done by oil washes and splattering.
  4. Hello all, You might as well know that I'm standing on Max's @mozart shoulders while doing this WIP. Max led the way. I just followed. As a modeller, my main interest has always been the Cold War period with the occasional incursion in the late WWII. Although I have a fascination in the between-the wars planes and their shifting technologies, I never had the chance to build one. Let me also add that this is my FIRST BIPLANE. So hang on tight and let the ride begin! A picture of my Belgian Edition ICM Gladiator, basically a regular release with a sheet of Dutch Decals added. I won't repeat what has been already said about this kit. Let me add that the design of this kit is exceptionally clever, making the building a real pleasure ... except on one point. But more of it later. As usual, a fine coat of Mr Surfacer 1200 is sprayed on all the parts with the sprues still on. It helps to bring on the details as well as the blemishes we'll have to deal with. Then a careful study of the parts, especially since I'm new to the subject. Similar-looking parts are hand marked to avoid confusion. followed by a dry-fit of the different components. The cockpit is correctly detailed while being basic. It can be easily improved by refining and adding some smaller details like switches and map cases, ... Gun shell ejectors added Wing gun pod ejector slots Side doors opening latches refined Refined throttle Instrument panel is correct for MK I. Looks convincing with stock decals added That's it for today, folks. Hope you like it. Cheers, Quang
  5. G'day everyone. Here's my rendition of ICM's I-153. Very nice build. Good detail, nice fit, but their soft, flexible plastic made for interesting alignment of the long thin wings. It's built almost out of the box, eduard etched seatbelts (I wasnt a fan, and will stick to HGWs belts in the future), and Quickboost exhausts. Painted with MRP paints and rigged with EZline. Denzil
  6. Ok, I know what you are saying..they do not make a 1/24th scale Hawker Fury.. and that's true. So, let's see if I can make one. This is a dare of sorts because I've not done a scratch project of this size ever, though I have done a series of five 1/144th scale planes this past year all from scratch and with reasonable success across a wide range of planes from a tiny Bf-109 the size of a butterfly to a sizable 8" long P-3C Orion. I think I meet the basic prerequisites, though honestly anyone can do this (kindergartners with clay and wood are remarkably fearless artists). That said, there are also the great masters (Alcorn, Woodhouse, Lee etc) that do this stuff too and we'll have to consider that like another world thing. Anyway, If I fail, it might be the dreadful distraction, project boredom and other barriers to seeing things through. It's pretty ambitious time wise (like a year??). I'm armed with enthusiasm and a love for modeling that has spanned 4 decades (with many breaks of course as many of us all know). I'm not a perfectionist type person and not trained things technical short of computer programming. I do have a very creative side and consider myself an artist without a real speciality. I dabble and I LOVE PLANES!!!!! Currently, I'm still researching the Fury with books on order, and a folder of growing images on my computer. I can't say it's like a dream plane but there seems to some content in the scratch world, typically pre WW2 where scratch works at this scale. I am getting to know it pretty well know over the few weeks, so it's very likely to grow on me. I've started to test some methods for technique so in some sense I've started. The picture of the tail below is the third round if seeing how I like to work with "spars" and "canvas" really before I get into it. I've got a little start on the cockpit shell going. Playing around. As I said, the project is not fully laid out, but I'm pretty sure it'll be an exercise in solid forms for the fuselage mostly of styrene and filler and then a vacuformed shell to house the cockpit and engine. I'll perhaps panel the shell with thin metal tape and creative use of strips and Magic Sculpt and whatever comes to mind. If you are going to follow along, I'd love the company. I'll say sorry up front for how damn long this is going to take but I think this forum has a taste for it. The process is the fun, right?
  7. Hello Forum, "within the build is before the built" I read some in the world wide web - I think somewhere aftmost left. .Some minutes before I was able to lay my hand on this beauty - also I payed much too much for her* burt I will plan much more that i jumped in with the Camel F.1. So this'll be at the very beginning a research thread swinging to a building an asking for help thread later on. Here the technical drawing for those who are interested in such stuff: And there is certainly a question of the colour sheme - I love this "British Post Red" as I remember it from my London trip once up on a time called it. Is this the "right" red - or is it too dark? Now to my questions - and as a newby I've got a lot of this I can't figure out when these coloursheme was used - okay before 1940 (then I found pictures in the pacific darkblue and sky light grey pattern). a) Is it right when I'll call her "1445" after her number on the tail? Or is the hull's side number "5-F-1" crucial? The coloursheme of the Revell kit semms to be the same as her's and the squadron symbol might be the same. What is the right Squadron my beauty belongs to? Was theirtimes there a sqaudron-colour or was it a a carrier-colour? c) If I say - okay red is nice but I want to bring the VB-2 "Big bad Wolf" on here hull - what do I have to do at the markings and to her colouring? I just learnd by http://wp.scn.ru that this was a Bomber Squadron not a VF for Fighter one So there apearce onn the far horizon the question if there might be a biplane Helldiver Curtiss SBC 1/32 kit... ...or if not - is it possible to built the SB2C back to a biplane? Could I take the measurements from the 1/72 Heller or the Matchbox kit? Thanks for your intrest and patience with a questioning greenhorn in here! ____________________________ *but with kits it seems to be like with kids and women you falt in love to...
  8. After Photobucket tried to ransom $300 out of me to save my build thread history, I was pretty pissed off to say the least! I do not think I have it as bad as others, and you all have my sympathy for those who lost more in "the fire". I'm cooled off now and decided to let a new day dawn, this time with Imageshack whose reasonable $20 annual fee is so much in synch with my needs. (IMGUR testing failed: I did not like the social media side of it, yuch). I want to preserve the history of the build here but will only reach as far as a "best of" pictorial review of the work. No stories of me stumbling and succeeding followed by confusion and laziness, learning and eureka moments. All that was perhaps best shown in real time. Suffice to say, I grew a lot as a scratch builder and learned much but it's perhaps unimportant to rehash those details. On the positive note one can now quickly see progress without pages of fluff and the time I distracted the Fury thread with me learning 3D for another project. Again thanks for all the support to date. There was much of that in that thread I want to recognize. Here are some pictures in rough chronological order. Work began Feb 22 2017 for the record. It was/is my first large scale scratch build and it's been a blast to date (July 4th). I estimate this is about 300 hours of some less than efficient work.
  9. Hi, Like most of my recent WIP thread, it's about a build that i've started for a while. But i just try to FINISH things ! So, it's the Special Hobby kit, it will be built OOB, except the decals (Begemot) and a few small additions or rather replacement. It will be a Dux made Nieuport 11, with the dull silver grey paint typical of russian built Nieuport and with a skull on the rudder (badass !), and quite dirty. The kit is quite good, like any other Special Hobby kit (i love them !), but let's be honnest, that's not Wingnut Wings. However, i'm sure that it can give a great model that wont be a shame besides a WNW model. The supplied engine is cast in resin, which is a good idea. The problem is that it's pretty bad. The quality is good but it doesn't look like a Le Rhône 9C. The cylinders are too skinny and the copper intake pipes look very thin. In fact, that's what made this build stalled : i need a replacement for that engine. The best answer is the WNW Le Rhône 9C, i first wanted to buy some spare but it's long OOP. So i can take it from my last Sopwith Pup kit and as i plan to make other builds with the same engine (another Nie11, a Nie21...), so i need to make copies. And that's what i started to do today. Let's start with the begining. The cockpit. I drilled the seat so it looks like a Nieuport seat. I painted the wood grain on the wooden parts and then installed the bracing wires with Gaspatch 1/48 turnbuckles. Then the cockpit assembly continues. Here besides a Tamiya extra fluid jar. It's really tiny ! The full assembly with the side frames required tricky clamping !
  10. Finally it's done ! I've started it more than one year ago, but most of the time it stayed on my bench half built and untouched. I restarted it a few weeks ago, and was very happy to meet this model again. It was a pleasure to build for a resin kit, with a very good fit and a very few issue (maybe the only issues were my fault). The painting was not easy though, as i had to cut masks for everything, and the yellow wings also ask for a lot of masking. Yellow is definitely not an easy color to paint. It is almost translucent, and even the tiniest bit of dust is visible. The olive drab color is a mix with british dark earth and US olive drab, to get something a bit khaki. The white is also a mix to get something more creamy, and the yellow as well (pure yellow + a bit of orange). Of course it's straight of the box, except a few things, like the antennas, and of course the rigging. This aircraft is not the easiest to rig, especially just in front of the cockpit, as there is a very few space between the upperwing and the engine cowling. It's a bit like building a boat model in a bottle. The control cables are EZ line, the structure rigging is Prym flat elastic wire and the antennas are Uschi elastic wire. The turnbuckles are basically brass microtube cut to lenght, and they are not present everywhere as some rigging points were inside of the fuselage. Now i can jump on the next build to be finished, and i think it will be another Curtiss bird, as i have a P-36A about 75% build. Here is a link to the WIP thread : http://forum.largescaleplanes.com/index.php?showtopic=54237
  11. Hi, After the P-6E and the P-36A (still in progress) I continue my Curtiss series. In fact, i've started this build more than 1 year ago, maybe even more. But i swore to finish 2 builds for 1 started until i empty my shelf of doom. So i'm back with this one. Once the cockpit will be built and the fuselage enclosed, it would not be too long i guess. I use the hasegawa old BF2C kit, with the Lone Star Model Hawk III conversion (3 blades propeller + engine cowling + a few fuselage parts around the tail wheel) and resin cockpit. For some reasons, i rebuilt the instrument panel from scratch and will certainly be detailing a few parts in the cockpit (at least the throttle handles). First here is the instrument panel. This picture is one from a F11C, but i assume it is the same : And my own version : After a coat of paint and a few dial decals, i'm pretty sure it would look good. I've also started to work on the engine. Unfortunately, there is an important mould offset. I have a nice Vector resin engine, but i prefer to keep it for another build (F11C and BF2C to come next....) where it will be more visible. Indeed the Hawk III engine cowling is more "wrapping" and hide a bit more the engine. So i am going to use the kit engine. I had to use new push rods as the kit ones also suffered from the very important offset = unusable. I will have to make the ignition wires, too. ANd with the cowling slide on it (one has to cut the cowling for it to fit over the engine. The engine also has to be heavilly sanded to reduce the diameter because of the rockers casings) : The strange engineering for the lower wings also had to be corrected. Instead making simple 2 half wings as usual, Hasegawa chose to make this strange cutting. It just makes a bad joint in the middle of the wing. And because of the wing details, it's not easy to sand it clean without damaging everything. I used rolls of sanding paper. I will get back to the P-36. More to come later !
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