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Everything posted by Pascal

  1. Brake fluid Dot 4. I've used it on brandnew diecast and resin models. Works great if you have no idea what type of paint was used. The parts need to soak for a few days, but it safely removes multiple layers of paint in 1 go.
  2. Well, it's a BIG kit. Fit and details aren't great. Nice base for super detailling. IMHO, the 1/12 Tamiya Porsches are better and a LOT cheaper. Sincerely Pascal
  3. Finally the work on the interior is coming to an end. The fire extinguishers are scratch build and have 16 parts, they look real nice with the decals designed and printed by Tim : I added some more details and wires : Dryfit with the dashboard : This is how the interior looked before the work began : I still need to find a way to glue the dashboard firmly in place. Then it will be a delicate job to put the seat in after the rollcage is fitted. Not enough space to do it the other way round. Finally the radio, some tiny home-made parts, and the seatbelts need to be installed. After that, the interior is done. Hope to reach the finish line in 3 - 4 weeks. Sincerely Pascal
  4. Gorgeous ! Beautiful kit that has become rare. Really hope that Revell produces this one again. Curious what you're gonna do with this kit. Sincerely Pascal
  5. Update : I finally managed to glue (using CA and J&B weld) the gear lever and it's housing to the tubes in the cockpit. The macro photos shows the dust that is left after sanding the J&B weld : This photo shows the medium grey J&B weld that I put between the tube and the housing to get a strong bond : This is the tube that connects the gear lever to the gearbox, 8 parts in total. The right part is the only part that came with the Solido model, the rest was scratched. The little tube on the left that sits over the larger tube is a modified part from a lighter : Dryfit. The bottom part of the gear lever will be glued inside the little vertical tube that I put on the large tube : Not to much to show, but it's a BIG step forward. Sincerely Pascal
  6. It's been quite a struggle to find a way to fix all the scratchbuild parts together. These are the parts that will be fitted to the lever (brake balance lever ?) that's just to the left behind the gear lever. The tubes are made from injection needles : Dryfit in the cockpit : With the tubes, not connected to the eyebolts because - at this stage - they aren't long enough : They're not parallel, this will be fixed later : Made another piece of tubing to get the correct length : Now the tubes are long enough, so they fit over the eyebolts. Macro photo shows there's some cleaning to do : New dryfit : One hurdle completed, on to the next one.
  7. I think that the prices for 1/32 airplane kits are relatively cheap compared to the bigger scale car models. 1/18 has very few car kits, but the amount of ready-made car models is enormous. Cheap ones start around € 45, but they take me almost a year to modify them into a decent finished model. High end 1/18 ready-made car models go for € 250 to € 800. But my line off thinking is off, because those models aren't supposed to be disassembled and altered, they are made for collector's who put them in display cases. Still, a 1/12 scale car kit (like MFH) will cost between € 500 and € 800. Pocher 1/8 scale car kits are between € 800 and € 1000. Then again, I see people that build more then 10 high-end 1/32 airplane kits every year. With the prices of recent years, that's very expensive. Have yet to see a modeller that builds more the a couple MFH or Pocher kits in 1 year. I'm not saying that building large scale planes IS cheap. But it can be, compared to large scale cars. I guess it all comes down to how much you want to spend and how many kits or projects you want to build...
  8. Update : Using copper wire I made the V-shaped bracket that's welded to the diagonal tube. Painted and glued in place (the white stuff is flour + CA) : But I didn't look good and didn't look like the real car. It was then that I realized that I made a big mistake. The tube diagonal tubes that run through the top of the firewall sit to low : The big black bump on the firewall needs to be some 5-6 mm higher : To modify the bump, I have to take the entire construction of the interior apart. I highly doubt that the parts will survive that kind of treatment. So, I decided to leave the bump and make a new tube. The old one and the V-shaped bracket were removed. Very gently because that part of the construction is fragile : Installed a new tube and a new V-shaped bracket : Much better : The V-shaped bracket will hold this lever. It's made up of 7 parts, the tubes on the left side will be the same length when everything is installed : The eyebolt were carefully filed to a much smaller size : Tiny piece, the square is 10 x 10 mm : I'm glad that I found a solution to the problem, even though it's not perfect, it will hardly be noticable when all the parts are installed. But it will be quite a challenge to assemble all the parts in that limited space. We'll see... Pascal MNTADO (*) (*) Motivation Never Takes A Day Off
  9. Sort of like Eduard does with it's Profipack and Weekend Edition kits.
  10. So, THE modeller wants cheaper kits, without all the fancy stuff that's in kits that the technician wants. The modeller doesn't care about accuracy, details, options, etc. The technician wants over engineered, esoteric, unattractive and unaffordable kits. Conclusion : manufacturers mostly make kits for technicians, rarely they make kits for modellers. A modellers kit : you have to work at it and love it. A technicians kit : You don't have to work at it and you don't love it . Sound a bit like the "builders" vs the "assemblers" theory. And I don't agree with that line of thought either. Personally : every person that spends his or her time in making a scale miniature is a modeller. Whether it's a budget kit, a kit with a ton of aftermarket, or a complete scratchbuild project. Of course you are entitled to have your own opinion, but for me there's no comparision between a 1978 1/32 Hasegawa Storch and a 2009 1/32 Tamiya Spitfire. The Tamiya kit costs 3 times as much as the Hasegawa kit, but it's also 3 times better. My today's car costs 3 times as much as the car I drove in the '70's. I'm very glad that car manufacturers decided to go in the direction of safer, better, more comfortable and more luxurious cars (at a higher cost), then continue making 1970's era cars witout ABS, air bags, sat-nav, airco, cruise control, etc. Just my 2 cents (*) (*) If those 2 cents become 6 cents because the manufacturer decides so, I'll still be happy. Sincerely Pascal
  11. Update : It took a lot of time to find a way to make the tiny parts for the gear lever, shaft and all the details that surround it. On the right side of the photo, you can see the coupling of the gearbox shaft : Solido made the coupling like this : I kept the rear part of the coupling and modified it : The front part of the coupling is made from piece of alu rod : These are some of the parts that I will use for the gear lever and shaft. From top to bottom : Steel rod (from a large paperclip). The little piece on the right that sits on top is a modified piece from a lighter. Steel tube from a cable ferrule. Scratchbuild front part of the coupling. Still have to make the tiny square block for the shaft : Dryfit, the cockpit has received some cables and braided wire, fixed in place with painted lead foil from a winebottle : To make the gear lever, I soldere a piece of copper wire to an eyebolt. The photo shows a dryfit with a M1 hex bolt and nut : The little ball has a diameter of 2,5 mm, it's from a kit to make necklaces : The front of the gear lever housing will get these tiny parts : Hex nut, turned piece of alu rod, smaller nod and the lid I made with the lathe : This dryfit shows that it's to high, the piece of alu rod will be shortened : It will be quite an adventure to fit and glue all these tiny parts together. Sincerely Pascal
  12. I wanted to buy the Minichamps version of this car, but they are way too expensive. Got this one from CK-modelcars for around € 40, pictures from their website : First thing I'm gonna do is change the covers for the front wheels. Solido did a poor job with these : The real ones look like this : The spokes need to be a lot thinner and the hole in the middle needs a smaller diameter. Started by making 2 circles with the lathe : To fix the plasticard in the lathe chuck, I drilled a hole and used one of these to fix the plasticard in the lathe chuck : Used a pipe cutter and a punch & die set to make the alu tube and plastic cover : Removed the Solido cover from the wheel : And drilled out the wheel nut : The new cover fits nicely : Dominiek (Exserco) has printed these for me : Dryfit with the cover : The 3D printed part fits perfectly : These are the parts that I will use to fix the new wheelnut in place, the big metal part was made with the lathe : I bought some acrylic rods and used the lathe to make these headlight lenses. They need a bit more polishing and will get a coat of Parket Plus. The matt one shows how they look before polishing : What's on the to-do-list for this project ? : Remove the oversized windshield decal and replace it. Use 3D printed vanes for the wheel covers. Add new wheel nuts. Replace (if I can find a good replacement part) the windshield wiper. Add details to the interior, because the doors are functional on this model. Modify the headlights, Solido always forgets the clear round lenses. Drill out the exhaust tubes. Various modifications that will (hopefully) improve the look of the model. Sincerely Pascal
  13. The Pocher Aventador will be a walk in the park after this MFH kit. It's basically a snap and screw kit, but it's a nice canvas for extra detailling.
  14. Excellent job Mike. Nice to see someone that actually builds this kit, instead of collectors buying them as an investment. Stunning work. Sincerely Pascal
  15. Hmm, comparing a 1/32 Tamiya spit with a 1/24 Airfix spit........ I prefer the Airfix spit, and if that's what I want the wife supports me 100 % and the kids too (I'm reading The Right Stuff, so pardon my John Glenn phrase) Why ? Well a Spitfire is British and Airfix is also British. Not that I believe that a Japanese kit manufacturer can't make a superb Spitfire kit... But if I buy a BMW car, I want it to be German. Designed in Germany and made in Germany. So, for the Spitfire : I want it to be British, made in Great Britain and sold by a British company. Like many modellers I grew up with Airfix and any "British-related" kit, screams Airfix to me. I mean Airfix, yes AIRFIX ! . Just saying it brings a smile to my face. It also reminds me of James "captain slow" May, another smile to my face. Even if the 1/24 Airfix spit will look like a big scale Revell Spitsfire, I would still buy one, because it's AIRFIX. Nostalgia, memories from my youth building all those Airfix kits.... Those things are far more important to me then the next perfect kit from Tamigawa. Basically : 1 large pint of bitter, Rule Britania playing on the background and a big 1/24 AIRFIX spit in front of me. That's not just nostalgia or memories from my youth, it's modelling heaven. Thank you AIRFIX for over 40 years of pure joy. Just my 2 cents ...
  16. I got tired of dealing with the zamac, so I made this little cutie. Laser-cut wooden kit from Robotime, 145 parts. Photo from the Robotime website : Took me 2 days to build, I added some color variation using woodstain and permanent markers. Was a fun little project : The little part in the last photo has been corrected. Sincerely Pascal
  17. I really need to find some more time for modelling. Update. Resin parts : Cylinder covers : Manifold : Drilled holes in the underside to attach the tubes : Tubes : Some plastic needs to be removed to make room for the tubes and covers : This lousy pic shows the back of the gearbox. I scratchbuild the master for this part, the Ferrari logo is visible with the naked eye : These triangular parts attach the gearbox to the frame : Inside the gearbox I fitted a terminal block, fixed in place with resin. The screw in the block allows me to hold the driveshaft in place, it also allows the gearbox to be moved about 5mm vertically, to change the ride height (I took some photos while I fixed the terminal block in place, but can't find them) : Sincerely Pascal
  18. Kev1 and all the mods : thank you for the hard work you guys do to keep this great forum running.
  19. Maybe it was his test to get into the KGB/GRU ? But not as entertaining as the professor that did the final exams for the Red Sparrow candidates...
  20. This is from the WIP by danimalmagic : WIP : Sincerely Pascal
  21. I read somewhere that the single seat F-16XL had the lightweight gear when it was produced, but was fitted with the heavyweight gear later on. By the time it was used by NASA, it definitely had the heavyweight gear (not sure about the bulged doors). The modifications you did look great, I hope to do the same thing to my Revell kit someday. Could you give me the dimensions of your wings ? From streak to trailing edge, and from fuselage / wing root to wingtip. Sincerely Pascal
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