Cajun Two One

Marco, There is a D model that was painted similar to the B model you're interested in. If I find it I will PM you. Cheers, Itch

Marco, Note that the old Revell kit is a B model. All the "natural metal" D's were in fact painted aluminum dope, to help prevent corrosion. Cheers, Itch

I have always been partial to John England's "U'VE HAD IT" , "Berlin Express" would be nice and maybe "ILL WIND". Cheers, Itch

The site says it will be released in the fall of 2015. I too am a contributor to this one. Cheers Itch

Rob, I have done mine in a base of terra cotta and used washes and pastel chaulks to taste. Light to dark and stop when it looks good. Cheers Itch

pappy, Who's interior do you have? I've been looking for a couple to replace the kits' Cheers and Thanks Itch

Mt, As I understand it and what I have seen of operational 17's the scheme you may be refering to is two greens, light and dark. The patern went all the way around the fuselage with the bottom of the wings and tail were natural metal. When I did mine I painted the light green first and applied the dark green in a random "spider web" type patern and it did have that kinda sorta splotchy look to it, they were also very beat up, dirty and chipped. I used the US SEA light and dark green and it looked close to real thing, then grundged it up quite a bit. HTH Itch

Don't forget to sand off the cannon bumps off the top of the wing, 2 each wing. And fill the cannon shell ejector slots in the bottom of the wing and recut the 8 303 shell ejector slots. Cheers Itch

Brad I thought Cutting Edge was making a resin -B nose for the Trump kit? It was also to include T-bird decals? I guess not. Of course you could always mask and paint, a large job I know, but would look good on that much bare metal. If you decide to go that route I have some scale drawings of the 105 T-bird scheme you could scale up and use. PM me your e-mail address and I'll forward what I have to you. Cheers Itch

I was kind of afraid of that, is the D close enough? 99% of the people seeing my model wouldn’t even know what a 105 is much less if it was accurate, I would really like to see any of the information you have. Brad, The -D really isn't that close enough to pass for a -B. Other than the nose the major hits are; no afterburner cooling scoops or stiffener plates, no electronic "tunnel" on the spine, small air intake at the base of the fin, different canopy glass, all round instrument panel (no tape type instruments) and the pitot tube relocated to the port wing tip. I'll PM a couple of pics to you. Itch

Brad, The T-birds did use the -B version of the 105. It has more differences than just the nose, different canopy, fuselage sides, etc. PM me and I'll send along any info I have to help. Regards Itch

Tony, If it is MEK by all means test it on a scrap piece first. I got some MEK from the maint shop when I ran out of Tennax and when I used it on an MPM Yak it "blew" a hole in the plastic. Some styrene formulas are more suseptable to it then others. It can be pretty powerful stuff. I've also found that it can in some instances leave a white residue on the plastic. FWIW. Rick

I've used both tape and masks and never had a problem with the future pulling off. After I dip the canopy I place it at a slight angle on a paper towel to wick away the excess and cover it with a drinking glass with one side elevated about 1/4" by a xacto handle. This lets air in for drying and keeps dust from settling on the wet canopy. I usually let it dry for a day or more, mask or tape it, paint the interior color after that dries I paint the exterior color and after all that has dried I then cut it from the carrier. There are probably as many ways to do this as there are modelers, but this is what works for me. Rick

Brian I have found that Testors Clear Parts Cement works well for me. Again it is a "modified" white glue but the hypodermic style applicator is a handy feature. I concure with Chris on using a coat of future, helps in masking and cutting. HTH Rick