DMunne

Here you go! LINKY Sincerely, Crash

:m0152: :clap2: Could it be! Have the modeling gods smiled down on us! It appears to be true. LINKY!! Now who is going to grace us with a F-22! Sorry guys, for us guys that like things that blow, this is HUGE news. Sincerely, Crash EDIT: Got to excited. Go to the bottom of the page for pics of Trumps F/A-18E and F-14D. Oh and there is a 1/18 scale F-14 too.

John, Kit looks really nice, and you did an amazing job on it! This is one I've been wanting for a long time.....now I just need to see if I can afford it! Crash

WOW! Thank you very much for sharing this info. Today I should be able to get some "quality" time at the bench, so you couldn't have posted this on a better day. Sincerely, Crash

Brad, That is gorgeous! Did you lighten the base color for a weathered/scale effect appearance or just use the mix straight? Crash

Tim, I knew about the gear doors being the exterior color both inside and out, but did not know about the gear wells. The actual wells are not Metallic Blue? Crash BTW mixed the colors today. Thanks!

Thanks Tim C, I'll go with these. Is the Mr. Color cowling color the right shade of blue-black? Can you confirm if the rear faces of the prop blades are brown and not black as Tamiya suggests? Are there any other color mistakes in the Tamiya directions I need to look out for? Now, if you'll excuse me, I've got some mixing to do. And I do sincerely thank you for allowing me to pick your brain, and for sharing your knowledge. Sincerely, Crash

Thanks Jennings, That profile looks straight Gray on my monitor. So the Tamiya spray color is accurate? If thats the case, I can buy a can (AS-29) and decant it. That would certainly be the easiest option. On a similar note, I found a great walkaround of a A6M2 during my searches, but seem to have lost the link. Any ideas? Sincerely, Crash

Thanks to everyone who took the time to respond. I don't normally build WWII aircraft, I prefer things that go supersonic, so I will probably only build one Zero. To answer Tim C's question, I want it to be as accurate as possible. Can I order the White Ensign paints online? I plan on building option A from the Tamiya kit. AI-102, Lt Saburo Shinden, Air superiority command, 2nd strike unit (straight from the Tamiya directions). Crash Edit: Went to my LHS and picked up the following Mr. Color paints: 35 IJN Gray (Mitsubishi)- Looks to me like a straight gray, no tint or hint of green. 128 Gray Green - very much a green tint. Comes very close to Tamiya XF-14. 56 IJN Gray Green (Nakajima)- Mostly green very little gray.

I keep reading very heated debates about A6M2 type 21 colors. I have a Tamiya Zero that I am trying to get done, but everyone keeps offering opinions about the colors. When I bought the kit my goal was a quick build, out of the box, to get through a little dry spot. I found a book by Osprey on building the Zero, and was just planning on using that as my sole reference concerning colors. I bought the Tamiya paint colors to paint the kit, figuring a Tamiya kit, about a Japanese plane, they should pretty much be spot on. So far so good, right. I've got the cockpit painted and built, which by the way, is awesome. Beautiful details. I painted it with XF-71 interior green which to me looks a lot like zinc chromate green, and nothing like the green in the Osprey book, but trudged on ahead. I took my "work in progress" to my local model club meeting, to share with my fellow GTM's, which is where it all went south. When someone asked me what color I was going to paint it, I simply stated it was going to be a Pearl Harbor era Zero, so it would be that light olive color that Big T calls for. Oh the howls of protest. Everyone had an opinion, ranging from overall white to gray to golden tinted. The Osprey book refers you to J-aircraft.com, but I can't seem to be able to navigate around that sight. I don't see anything there about Tamiya's Zero or any articles by Ryan Toews. Hopefully someone here can help me with straight answers. I can get Tamiya or Mr. Color paints. Here is what I have so far: Overall fuselage color: Tamiya XF-14 JA Gray Cowling and rear deck under canopy: Mr. Color 125 Cowling Color I also read somewhere that the rear face of the prop should be brown not black so I bought Mr. Color 131 Propeller Color. Any help GREATLY appreciated, Crash

That sir is a beaut! Simply stunning! Crash

Thanks Ads, Actually 1/35th would be better. Much easier to source the guns. Now the waiting game begins...... Crash

Seems to me, I remember someone on this sight saying someone was working on a 32nd scale injection molded C-47. Just wondering if anything new has happened. I really want to do a AC-47! Crash

Short answer= yes. There is a resin set from PWMP(?) for the F-15. It was the hard type and included the AOA covers as well. The Hasagawa F-16 has a hard intake cover included in it's kit. HTH, Crash

I have never had any drip problems, you've got me a little worried. Here's how I do it. 1. Polish the canopy with Micro Mesh sanding pads, paying special attention to any particular bad areas or molding seams. 2. Wash the canopy well with Dawn dish detergent, rinse, and allow to air dry. 3. Drop the canopy in a tub of Future/Pledge and leave it there for at least 30min (up to an hour). 4. Remove canopy from the Future, and seal in a container lined with paper towels. The container will keep any dust from settling on the wet Future. I do the canopy first, as soon as I open the kit. That way it is completely dry by time I get to the point where I need to mask it. HTH, Crash

As a non prop building LSP'er, I somehow have been conned into buying a Dragon P-51D kit. It really is a nice kit. I just might build it OOB as a shelf sitter. Just to be a little different, I am trying to find some non-USA markings for it. I found out through my research that the Dominican Republic was the last user, as late as 1984. Does anybody make markings for a DR P-51D? If not maybe someone can recommend a sheet that has some cool non-USA markings. Sincerely, Crash

Abledog, I had the same problem you are having now. Some fillers are lower grade than others. I switched to 3M Acryl Blue and have never looked back. I got my tube in a NAPA auto parts store. Everyone that I know that has switched to Acryl Blue loves it. It's about $15 for a 21 oz tube, so it's a good value as well. I've had the same tube for about 9 years now and have used less than half. Here is a link so you know what you are looking for: http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/3M/en_U...JglN44DZ0ZP4Wbl HTH, Crash

Someone talk me down. I'm thinking of switching back to 1/48th. I don't think I can afford 1/32nd scale anymore! How much longer till we see $1000 kits? Crash

Leitch, Really. Good tip. I will definately give this a try! Rocky, I will look for some Gunze paints. One LHS is starting to get these in. BTW love Tamiya flat black. Absolutely the best black on the market. Sincerely, Crash

Will Do. Crash

Matt and Dave, Thanks for the tip. I'll look for some Alclad cleaner ASAP. I have some Alclad and I'll keep those. That should provide contact high. Crash

Thanks for the replies. I guess it's just a matter of practice. With the cost of 32nd scale kits these days, I wish there was a way to be sure. I've got a M-551 Sheriden I can practice on, so that may be the way to go. I picked up some MM Acrylic colors along with their own brand of Airbrush thinner to try. I also got a bottle of Liquitex Flow-aid as featured in one of Floyd Werner's DVD's. I'll give it a try and post some pics. I've gone thru my modeling books, but Verlindens book's are the only ones that mention oil washes. Crash

It's getting harder and harder to find Model Master Enamel paints around here, and easier and easier to find Acrylics. It seems most of the hobby shops are switching to MM Acrylics and Tamiya and even Gunze. I've never really liked acrylics, they keep clogging my airbrush, but I can see some very real benefits to switching. A friend recently turned me on to acrylic retarders, so I got some today and will give it a try. I also want to work more with oil based washes. I think the effects of oil washes are far superior to any other medium. So does anybody here use acrylics that can pass on some knowledge? Perhaps recommend some required reading. What about the oil washes? What is the mildest thinner to use with the oil to avoid any chance of reaction with acrylic paints? I bought some turpenoid and turpentine. Sincerely, Crash

Eduard Exterior and Interior sets are available. Both are really nice. I also carved a new nose for my Mig-29 and made a mold to cast copies for a few close friends. I may still have one laying around if your interested. Sincerely, Crash

Nice. Perhaps you can work on you photography.... and post more pics. Crash