B-17

I also heard that one of the shortcomings in this kit was a potential "step" caused by assembling the nose and tail turret separately from the main fuselage. This is what the instructions recommend, but I decided to deviate and install them to the corresponding fuselage halves. It was a little disappointing that not all of the kit panel lines lined up. I'm fairly happy with how the port side turned out: The starboard side must have slowly pulled apart after I removed the tape holding it together. It will require a bit of fixing. A similar process was used for the tail turret, which came out fairly well. That's all for now.

Not much progress to show so far, but in order to actually be a "Work in Progress" here we go... The cockpit will have a bit of scratch building, photo etch, and HGW fabric/resin. The canvas control columns were made from Miliput (inspired someone else's build). Progress so far: A comparison between the Yahu IP (top) and Eduard (bottom). I will likely go with the Yahu panel when the time comes. Rear bulkhead progress so far. The door was opened and will have to be scratch built to pose open. I added some wiring running into the circuit breaker panel. The oxygen bottle holders by Eduard were way too fiddly for me, so I have opted for styrene instead. I'm also considering trying to replicate the canvas sound/(fire?) proofing on the sidewalls, but haven't been able to find definitive evidence that they were on B-17Gs. If anyone else has pictures or knowledge, feel free to chime in. The seat cushions/ flotation devices by HGW:

Hi, I originally bought the HK kit with intentions to build it as part of the multi-engine group build, but life and then covid got in the way. I recently got it back out with the intentions of building it as a fellow 490th BG ship '5# with Breakfast'. While searching for the Zotz decal sheet (which is apparently impossible to find), a helpful forum member offered to help me with the markings. One thing led to another and now he is helping me create a set of markings for "Bobby Sox". This is a pretty well known B-17 that had a variety of different markings during its career. I plan to build it as it *probably* looked while serving with the 490th BG. It will involve a "Pathfinder" conversion. Progress will be slow *disclaimer* I figure that the most fitting way to start this build is with the aircraft and wonderful nose art itself.

Timmy, Thanks for the suggestion. Lots of great stuff in that video. Jeff

Thank you very much, Thunnus, for that response. Your idea crossed my mind, but I was hesitant to take a pair of scissors to shorten a set of brush bristles. Thank you everyone for the responses. You all have given me some renewed life to experiment with different techniques. Jeff

Thanks. I will experiment with both suggestions. Jeff

Does anyone have suggestions for tools/techniques to remove sanding dust from panel lines and rivets? I'm currently in the process of filling/sanding a set of 1/32 Tamiya P-51 wings. One of the hurdles I'm finding is that some areas are being filled with Mr. Surfacer, but others are just filling up with compressed dust from sanding. I normally use an old tooth brush to clean the panel line dust, but it isn't working very well on the fine surface detail of the Tamiya P-51 wings. Any help or suggestions would be MUCH appreciated. Thanks for looking. -Jeff

Hi, I was hoping to model a Ju-87G-1 from a well known series of photos. The problem is that I can't find high resolution photos to make out the fuselage codes other than a "G". I was hoping someone out there might be able to help shed enough light on this aircraft to help me build a reasonably accurate replica. I tried registering on the Bundesarchiv website to download them, but the process was a bit too complicated for me to successfully complete. Here is the series of photos that I believe are all the same aircraft.

The RB productions photo-etch erla canopy comes with a template to reshape the fuselage. I am working on a 109K with the RB erla canopy, but have not yet had a chance to compare the template with the canopy from the Hasegawa G-14 kit.

Damian, That's exactly what I'm looking for. It looks like the up-lock hooks (#7 in the illustration) are indeed faced in opposite directions because they are connected to a single release cable. Back to the bench. Thanks again! Jeff

Hi, Does anyone have pictures or drawings of the landing gear wheel wells on the Bf-109K? I'm working on a 1/32 Bf-109K and using the RB productions photo etch wheel wells. The instruction photos aren't very detailed. I'm specifically wondering if the outboard gear door up-lock hooks on the sides of the wheel well face the same direction. I'd love to get my hands on the Japo book, which probably has the answers, but can't justify the price tag. Thanks in advance for any help! -Jeff

I was at the USAF Museum a few years ago. One of his paintings was on display called, 'Red River Thunder'. Here are a couple pictures I took. The painting in the flesh was sublime. Sad news. Sorry for your loss.

The box art appears to be by Piotr Forkasiewicz. He seems to be doing artwork for all the recent HK reboxings and some stuff for Eduard. His website is worth a browse while having a coffee/beer. https://peterfor.com/ I'm tempted to buy this reboxing, but man... I was really hoping for a 345th BG boxing. I am really disappointed by the lack of 345th markings on offer for the glass nose HK B-25. I guess the wait continues for that, the B-17F rebox, and B-17 nose section kit.

This is an example of the SOW design I was trying to describe. He contours a metal rod to match the shape of the entire strut. This reinforces the entire strut including the axel. He then surrounds it with a section of stainless tubing in the shock strut area. I am wondering if the ones in the review are just stainless tubing in the shock strut area, while the rest of the gear is resin. Hope that clarifies

Is it just me, or is anyone else skeptical that the metal rods inside those stretch the entire length of the strut like the SOW ones do?

John, Congratulations on such a terrific build. . On an unrelated note, I tried to email you with a decal order and got an automated response saying that you were recovering from surgery. I hope all is well for you. Jeff

I have personally taken apart a 21st Century pre-finished model. It is the 21st Century Toys mold, but doesn't include the bombs, or pilot figure. Additionally, the decal sheet has werk numbers that are in an.... interesting font selection https://www.modellboard.net/index.php?topic=64186.0 I agree, though, that the 262's were the creme of the crop when it came to 21st Century 1/18 aircraft.

Iain, That is a terrific idea. I really hope that you still plan on marketing these. I would gladly pay to compensate your efforts and improve the wings on my two kits. Watching eagerly...

I think you got them right. I had to double check walkaround photos when I assembled mine. The rudders appear identical / interchangeable, but they are not symmetrical themselves. The trim tab actuating rods are both on the same side as the left wingtip. I also appreciate your comments on the silhouette portrait 2. I've got one on my wishlist, but they are really expensive!

Paul, I ordered figures from him a few months ago via email. It took about a week for him to respond when I made the initial email. He might be a little slow in responding to emails, but was a pleasure to deal with. The figures are also top quality. Jeff

Great work! I think a wall mount is the only I will be able to display mine as well. That XF-15 looks like a great color. What markings will you use for your build?

Beautiful build! Great choice of paints for the desert tan. I'm working on one right now and I gotta ask... How much nose weight did it actually need?

Just a quick update... I have been holding off on posting to keep from clogging up the forums for everyone else's good work. I intended to not post until I had pictures of progress, but I have run into an issue that I am hoping to get guidance on. I was airbrushing the wheels with AK real color paints and decided to airbrush some of AK's landing gear dust wash, which I later realized was an enamel based product. It began to gum up in my airbrush and the AK high compatibility thinner did not clean it up. I now have some gummed up enamel based paint in my airbrush and some enamel based paint on the wheels that will not dry. The bottle recommended thinning with white spirits. Could I use white spirits to clean the airbrush and strip the enamel paint from the wheels? Juggernut, thanks again for your interest and all of your information. You are exactly right, and I appreciate the details you are providing BEFORE I have paint on the model. brahman, I was a bit surprised myself when it went through! Dennis, that is an excellent suggestion. I was really close to getting exactly the set you are talking about. I ultimately decided to go with the HGW set of fabric seat belts because it also came with separate seat cushions. I hope to do them justice!

That is an outstanding build! Excellent job.

I actually purchased those for the serial numbers of Incendiary Blonde. That set only leaves a "1" unaccounted for. It seems like a safer bet than masking them myself. That would be very helpful - thank you. I think I will have to mask and paint those myself. The triangle "A" on the Kit's World LMM sheet is too stubby compared to my photo. Like you, I love the big red tail and wingtips. I also wanted to stray slightly from all the LMM builds. I purchased all my alclad and paint for the build before I started, so now I'm committed for better or worse. This build will be an attempt to find a healthy balance between accuracy and having fun while completing the project. I think the work done by you (and many others) in the constant pursuit of improvement is part of what has propelled the hobby so far in my absence. I'd love to see you pull that thing out of the closet and build it. I'm sure you would do a fantastic job. My solution to the display problem is hanging from the wall. It's not my first choice, but it is just too big to put anywhere else. It will also negate the landing gear length issue by having them retracted. Thanks again for following along. I don't want to be a burden or get lazy on my own research, but I'd be very appreciative of any info you could spare. I have some very fond memories of the Revellogram B-17's from my childhood. That is the main reason I'm jumping back in with the HK kit. I'm looking forward to whichever project you start first.