Archer Fine Transfers

Back in the day it was a little-known trick to use a pencil to draw panel lines instead of scribing them.

Shipping today.

Hi Dave, Got ya covered. Send your mailing address to orders@archertransfers.com and I'll put them in the mail with a tracking link. Woody

Jig: noun Machinery. a plate, box, or open frame for holding work and for guiding a machine tool to the work, used especially for locating and spacing drilled holes; fixture. You can call an alligator a tomato but that doesn't make it a tomato.

Wrong, a jig is more of a fixture to hold a workpiece firmly in place while tools work on it, like you see in factories. Jigs for building models are used to hold components in precise alignment - like biplanes, but they are more commonly used in the construction of flying models. But what do I know, I was only a tool maker for 7 years.

I might have the kit parts you're looking for. Which part numbers exactly do you need?

The subject isn't jigs, just something to hold the model while you work on it.

Second vote for a pencil sharpened to a chisel point. Won't work on gloss, but it does on SG or flat.

I've considered it, but it's not a priority at this time. I wish I had a magic want, but alas I don't. Woody

I know I'm a little late to the JB Weld party, but I've known people that fixed cracked engine blocks with that stuff. I haven't gone that far but I've used it to fix broken pot handles, cat littler scoops, toilet flush handles and other things essential to survival in the modern world. One of the few things that actually lives up to its claims.

Totally uncalled for. Take this behavior over to Facebook.

If these are the temporary fasteners around the edge of removable panels, they are called Dzus fasteners. The ones we have are going to stand a bit proud so be aware of that. The one you're looking for is THIS.

Domestic U.S. shipping was $3.99, now $3.75 - FREE for orders over $35 (was $50) International orders shipping was $10.99, now $10.75 - FREE for orders over $50. These rates will stay in effect until further notice. The LSP discount for the SBD rivet skins is still in effect. Save $25 off retail.

I've never done any pre-shading before and looking for any tips you may be interested in sharing. Thanks in advance. Woody

If you need them recessed try drilling a shallow hole and fill it with some water soluble filler like Perfect Plastic Putty. When dry wipe over it with a damp cloth until it's just below the surface.

I'd probably know that if I bothered to read the subject line. Sorry Ryan, I don't have anything constructive that might help. Water based paints have made it very clear to me that they hate my guts and if they ever catch me even thinking about using them they will make my life miserable.

That's really clever and I won't need a bar stool. Perfect.

Not sure what MA aluminum is, but back in the day Model Master metallics had the same issue. The problem is that there is so little binder in the paint the metallic particles come off easily. Back then, people were resorting to wet facial tissue to mask it. If there is metallic coming up with the clear, the problem is the metallic paint and not the clear. You might want to try some clear lacquer. If MA is lacquer based, clear lacquer might just penetrate it enough to lock the metallic down. Personally, I use AK Xtreme metallics and find they are much less prone to lif

Winner winner chicken dinner! Def going to give it a go. Only problem is that I just tossed about 6 feet of that insulation. Thanks, Chuck

Whew, I'm glad it's not just me. The only real blunder on Trumpeter's part I've encountered so far. The nose cowl is tricky too but an easy fix. What's your next project?

Thanks man, appreciate it.

It's time I finally broke down and got one of them fancy stands to hold my model while working on it. I've seen wooden ones and plexiglass ones being used but I haven't seen any for sale anywhere.

True, but they don't have either of the products mentioned above

PROGRESS!.... Well, sort of Hoping to get re-enthused about this build, I cleaned up my modeling room. Luckily for me I have no desire to build a 1/32 B-17. BTW, fruit flies love Future. Back to this mess. There are times when good enough just isn’t good enough, and since I pulled the masking off before I picked out the details and didn’t overcoat with satin clear I stripped the paint off the canopy and repainted it. Since I discovered that IPA dissolves Future I dropped the parts in a jar full of it and set it aside for a couple days. Th

For a primer, you can use any flat or SG color thinned with hardware store thinner. Since the HSP is hotter than hobby lacquer thinner it bites into the plastic forming a molecular bond.