Woody V

Greetings, My name is Jen Burnet and I'm the new manager at Archer. I'm not a model builder but I did work at Archer several years ago until I left to pursue my vocation - animal rescue. I am a cat herder and CEO of The Cat FARM.org, a 501(c)(3) non-profit cat rescue located near Archer, right here in Youngsville, NC As you probably know Woody tried to sell Archer over a year ago. That didn't work out - the offers just couldn't be justified, so I came to Woody with the idea of taking over the daily operations with the profits going to help fund The Cat FARM. So here I am, and happy to be back. We now have a brand new, modern website with many new features. First off, with the recent surge of inflation I decided not to raise prices to accommodate dealers so Archer products will only be available through the website. PayPal is no longer our default shopping cart making it simple to use any form of payment except cash or crypto and we offer interest-free financing on orders over $35. In closing, you may or may not know that Woody suffered a stroke about a year ago which was 'minor' but leaving him unable to build models, so he's only with Archer in an advisory capacity. Woody's not the kind to sit idly so he has turned his attention to AI Art and created all the new graphics for the website giving it a fresh new look, a natural progression from the old to the new. Thank you, and Happy Modeling! Jen Burnet, General Manager and cat herder extraordinaire. ARCHER FINE TRANSFERS

Under $9 at Walmart But why bother when Alclad Aqua Gloss is clearly superior in every way.

Thin them with AK (or other hobby brands) Odorless Thinner if you want to make a wash, or a panel line wash. Commercial Odorless Thinners also work. You can use them for weathering like exhaust stains straight from the tube, but it's recommended to put a dollop on cardboard (or paper towel) to absorb the oils in the paint. This makes them easier to work with. Clear coat your model before using them, but regardless, they will not attack any paint system I know of. Some guys do their weathering over satin clear while others over gloss. Once you are finished, clear coat your model. Your choice, but play with them on a scrap mode. I'm sure you'll get numerous responses, but that's my take on the subject.

When you understand the theory you come up with simple solutions, like this.

Here's a trick you might try. Spray a light coat of black on the part. The black will act as a guide coat showing you where you have sanded. Sand until all the black is gone. Then use successively finer grades of sandpaper to remove all the scratches made by the previous grit of sandpaper until it has a just slightly frosted sheen. Finish by using progressively finer grades of polish like the Novus system or simply dip in Future or Aqua Gloss. This is how we were taught to polish clear acrylic in USAF Tech School but the theory holds true for polishing any plastic.

If there are air bubbles coming up from the bottom of the cup, there is an air leak at the point where the trigger contacts the air seal. I had this exact same problem with my H&K airbrushes. I'd like to see a picture.

Bodic UV works great.

Not sure what you mean here. Are you seeing actual bubbles forming in the cup or what appears to be the pigments moving around?

That's absolutely correct. The tip of the nozzle is incredibly thin, something I found out the hard way because I managed to deform one with a reamer. I had a nozzle clogged with what appeared to be lint and using the needle to remove it only pressed the clog tighter to the wall of the nozzle. Careful use of a reamer was the only way to scrape the clog off. I also stopped using paper towels to clean my airbrush cup and switched to these: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B09TSM852Q/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://micro-surface.com/product/micro-mesh-sheets-individual/

As with everything, there are exceptions to the rules and according to the drawing it's obvious this is one of those situations.

I have one of those Iwata cleaning kits, but it didn't include one of these. I actually made one from the H&S brand one. Where did you get this?

You can buy products directly from MicroMesh

I know this is going to sound extremely nit picky but the slots in deus fasteners are parallel to the edge when they are locked and perpendicular to the edge when not. They aren't screws, they're quarter-turn fasteners. Normally, I wouldn't bring this up but you're so dedicated to accuracy.

The fact that you've gotten this far without breaking off the antenna post alone is commendable. A feat I've never accomplished.

That's because he's using ink, not paint.

The voice of reason. Thank you

I was addicted years ago and suddenly realized that the time I spent (wasted) with nothing tangible to show could best be spent doing something real and that's when I started (restarted) building models. But I must say landing an F18 on a carrier at night was memorable.

Now THAT is humbling!

Out of boredom I read through this thread this morning, Based on my years of experience, and the responses here I can confidently advise: It's complicated.

I'm jealous! As much as I'd love to build one, my workbench is too small. Looking forward to seeing this one over the finish line.

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You can get a 1200 dpi color laser printer under $400 all day from B&H in New York. If they sell it, I buy from them. If you use their credit card they even refund your sales tax.

If it were me, I'd build a new base with the launcher on a slope. I'm not sure if that's a joke or not.