VintageEagle

PS: the only negative detail I could see so far are the main landing gear covers which appear to have a flat bulge on them: The real covers were flat (by the way, there were a few different designs of these covers). I assume that these bulges were - by mistake - "copied" from the new built Me 262s that feature these bulges as can be seen here in an inflight view: If they indeed used the new built Me 262 as a reference, let's hope that is the only feature they copied. It is something that is quite easily corrected.

New detail photos of the sprues!: http://www.kitreviewsonline.de/messerschmitt-me-262-b-1a-testshot-von-revell-132/ Eduard is already announcing detail sets for December: https://www.eduard.com/store/out/media/distributors/leaflet/leaflet2016-12.pdf

Thank you so much for all these very helpful recommendations. AIRBRUSH: I used to have a plastic Testor Aztek airbrush if I remember correctly. But I now probably go for Harder & Steenbeck that was mentioned several times. The Evolution 2 in 1 (0.2 / 0.4) sounds like a good deal. Is there a big difference between a 0.15 Infinity and 0.2 Evolution in terms of minimum spray diameter? PAINTS: I used to use Testor or Humbrol enamel colors, but the odor was quite strong and paint that stuck to my fingers had to be removed by alcohol. So, I'll definately go for acrylic paints, most likely Gunze Sangyo. From what I have read they have quite good Luftwaffe RLM colors. DECAL SOLVENT: Good to hear that the Micro Sol and Micro Set are still in use. I used to use them already 20 years ago. VARNISHES: I'll give Vallejo a try and see how well it works. I remember the Humbrol clear coates that used to create "spider webs" (which was probably my fault as I may have used the wrong solvent). WEATHERING: Thank you for the recommendation of weathering products. Such products were not available 20 years ago and may make weathering simpler, but I assume it is still a lot of learing by doing. I really like the way the models of Chris Wauchop look like. Not too exaggerated and very convincing weathering. GLUE: I'll go for the Tamiya thin cement. I remember having used that one. I was quite happy with the results. Now, I realize that there is a lot to learn besides the basics (rivetting, re-scribing panel lines, paint chipping, etc.), but that's part of the fun :-) Thank you all and happy modelling! Roger

Hello, After a stop of more than 20 years of buillding models (I never stopped watching others build models), I plan a "come-back". Now, many years have passed and I am not sure which Airbrush Paints (acrylic, enamel, etc. particularly for Luftwaffe models) Flat & gloss varnish Glue Decal solvent Weathering technique (oil, metal pencil, special weathering products, etc.) etc. are best nowadays. Can anybody give me a recommendation? I know that is quite a broad question. If there are existing tutorials or articles about this topic, I'd also be happy to learn where I have to look for them. Thank you. Roger

It looks as if it will be available in November (at least at Modellbau-Universe.de for 43 Euro). There is also a very nice looking new artwork:

Sprues sprues sprues:

Hello Peter, Outstanding work. I have been following this thread since the start (and your previous builds as well). May I ask you what kind of 3D printer you are using? Is the printing resolution good enough or is there a lot of processing required after the parts come out of the printer? Is there a market place already where one can download 3d files for printing at home? Cheers, Roger

Here are some more photos: www.ipmsdeutschland.de/Flugzeuge/Wiegmann/Rev_Me262B-1a_32/Rev_Me262B-1a.html Enjoy.

I have never actually measured the Jumo 004 intake diameter on the Trumpeter kit, but it always looked too small to me (or maybe it was just the shape of the engine nacelle or the position of the Rieder starter hood). It looks perfect on the new Revell kit. If the Trumpeter intake diameter is indeed too small, it would be a big plus for the Revel kit. Personally, I am looking forward to it and will even buy one despite being a long year passive modeler. Cheers, Roger

Have you seen this outstanding model that represents the Australian Bf 109 G-6 and all its color features? http://www.network54.com/Forum/47751/thread/1397924587/Bf+109+G-6+W.nr.+163824 May be an inspiration. Looking forward to reading your updates. Roger

Hi Jim, A bare metal fuselage will look great (same aircraft as Klaus Herold built? I think it was White 6). What might be useful are drytransfer stencils that are also part of my decal sheet set. However, I am not sure whether they added stencils directly onto the metal skin or if this would have done only after the camouflage colors were applied. Anyway, here is a preview of the dry transfer decals: Just a small detail that is sometimes done wrongly: all known photos of a He 162 cockpit show a late-war Revi 16B with just one glass, i.e. it did not have the sun shading glass nor its brackets. Cheers, Roger

Hi Jim, Looks fantastic so far Have you decided already about the markings? If you go for one that features the JG 1 eagle emblem, I wanted to quickly point out that in the past it was in almost all cases shown wrongly as a red emblem. It was (with a very high likelyhood) yellow. In my book "Captured Eagles Vol. I" I show a photo of White 4 that was taken on orthochromatic film where red appears to be black. The red arrow on the nose is very dark (black), but the emblem is not, so the emblem´s color cannot have been red. Additionaly, on the recently restored He 162 at the Le Bourget museum remains of yellow color were found at the location where the emblem originally was (and hence they restored it with a yellow emblem). My decal sheet has a highly accurate JG 1 yellow emblem (it was drawn from a close-up photo of White 4´s emblem and is probably the most accurate JG 1 emblem out on the market): Whatever colors you choose, I am looking forward to reading your progress reports :-) Cheers, Roger

Hi Damian, Thanks! I hope you will enjoy the book and decals! Cheers, Roger

Hi there, I quickly wanted to point out that the decal sheet (1x Bf 109 G-10, 2x Fw 190 A-8 with RVB, 1x He 162) - together with the book that contains photos of the originals birds A-8 and many other planes - will be ready for shipping at the end of this month and preorders can already be placed now (at www.vintageeagle.com/store). Finally The book is a limited edition and each copy is numbered by hand. It comprises 72 pages in large DIN A4 format (210 x 297mm; 8.27 x 11.69 inches) and contains more than 90 photos (incl. several color photos), 8 color profiles created by the renown aviation artist Simon Schatz and 3 color emblems. As far as I am aware, all but three photos have never been published before and show such rare birds like the Fw 190 D-13, Fw 190 A-8 with a Reichsverteidigungsband, Me 262s, He 162s, erla-produced Bf 109 G-10, a high-speed reconnaissance Me 410 A-3, a Bf 109 K-4 in US markings and many more. A highlight are certainly the first known photos of a Ju 88 G-7. I hope you will enjoy it and I would be very glad to hear your feedback, opinions and suggestions :-) Cheers, Roger

Hi Roland, That turned out to be a really outstanding model! I really enjoyed following the 'work in progress' report and seeing the decals, that I painstakingly researched and designed, finally on a real model Thank you Roland for having applied these decals for the first time and for building such an outstanding model! At this point, I also want to thank Simon Schatz and David Brown, who both helped a lot in determining the correct camouflage scheme of this attractive and rare late war Butcher Bird. I have posted some photos of the completed model on the decal sheet info page (click here) and also as a separate album page on my website (click here). Both the book and decals will be ready for shipping very soon (I think in about 3-4 weeks). Cheers, Roger

Hi Kev, Looks great! Just one thing I remembered from my Me 262 research (I have over 3'000 wartime documents, copies, about the Me 262): the Avia aircraft reflected the last manufacturing standard of the Me 262. Due to landing gear problems, a two-scissor main landing gear leg was introduced at the very end of the war and at least the Avia at the Czech museum has two scissors instead of just one like most other Me 262s. Maybe you could check your Avia references to check if all other Avia also had two scissors. Also, at least the one at the museum had the late production wide trim tab on the rudder. Cheers, Roger

Hi Roland, That is looking great! :-) Can't wait to see the completed model. The riveting tool is really ingenious. On the wartime photo one can only see that the outboard MG 151 were not installed, but it is not clear if the opening was covered by sheet metal, a piece of fabric or if it was left open. I would "guesstimate" that it was closed with a piece of fabric or tape to prevent water getting inside the wing. I should have all decals and instructions freshly from the printing companies by latest next week :-) Cheers, Roger

Hello all, Many thanks for your valuable feedback! It sounds as if there is interest in such an idea and I will produce a small series of Fw 190 and maybe He 162 data plates based on originals from the same production block than the aircraft on my decal sheet. There is also an Erla Bf 109 G-10 on the decal sheets, but I need yet to find an original Erla data plate (I have a Regensburg G-10 plate, but the Erla one may have been different). Just as a teaser: the two Fw 190 are so far unknown, but are very colorful - a JG 301 and JG 2 aircraft, both with RVB (the JG 2 Fw 190 with RVB being a very rare example). The data plate will be an exact replica based on my original (Fw 190) or museum aircraft (He 162) and will be made out of etched aluminum (Fw 190) or iron (He 162). I am planning to add also a photo of the aircraft that has the same width than the data plate so that it looks nice if shown together with the data plate. For the book, I have made a new website where I will also publish photos from my collection for free. Most content is yet blocked, but I will post the URL here was soon as both book, decals and data plates are ready. My old website was www.battlegroundrelics.com, which is still online but due to my recent project I didn't have much time to moderate it. Cheers, Roger

Dear LSP-Members, I am about to finish my first book. It will contain more than 80 previously unpublished photos of captured German WW2 planes, mostly from 1944/45. Together with the book, also decal sheets in 1/48 and 1/32 for the four most attractive birds will be available (He 162 A-2, Fw 190 A-8, Bf 109 G-10). Now, the reason for this post is not to make advertising for my book (and hence, I do not mention the title), but to ask you modelers for feedback: I have several original Luftwaffe data plates in my collection and thought it would be nice to display a (exact replica) data plate and real photo (copy taken from my original photos) of a particular aircraft on the decal sheet along with the model; e.g. on the side of a diorama or a simple base plate. The photo and data plate could be attached to the base plate or a separate Plexiglas frame or any other idea a modeler may have. Since developing and ordering such a product means also an investment, I first wanted to ask you guys if there were interest in something like that or if you think this is unnecessary. I estimate the price for the data plate, photo, 4 rivets, vintage photo corners and manual with a color profile at about 10 Euro, but I haven’t done any facts based calculation yet, so this value could change. Any feedback is very welcome! Thanks, Roger

Hello KOTR, Thanks for the advice. I'll have a try. What is the best paint for priming the model if I use Acrylics afterwards? Thanks, Roger

Hi Jeff and Bob, Thank you for your very detailled summary about different types of paints. This is very helpful. I think I'll try Tamiya paints first as they are relatively easy to get here in Switzerland. Is there a special type of paint for priming the model? Or can I just use any grey acrylic paint? So, for a flat coat (finish coat) you recommend: Future Floor polish mixed with Tamiya X-21 Flat base. What about a glossy coat before the decals are applied? Is it 100% Future Floor polish? I am sorry for my very basic questions. Kind regards Roger

Hi Bails, Thanks for the info! Are there any special brands that are usually preferred? Regards Roger

Hi After a break of several years I would like to start building models again. But a lot has happened since I finished my last model 10 years ago. I mainly used Enamels at that time but read that Acrylic paints can also be used and may even be advantageous. My main questions are: What layers of paints and what kind of paints are common: e.g. base coat (enamel), camouflage (enamel), clear glossy coat (enamel), decals, fixing coat (enamel), weathering, final clear coat. What type of paint go well together and which not? What clear coat as base for decals and as final coat do you recommend? Perhaps there is even a starter guide available online? Thank you! Roger

Hi Rick and Steve, Thanks for your replies. I would love to detail either the Hasegawa or Trumpeter engines myself, but I dont have the capabilities and unfortunately also not the time. Hmmm, I saw the excellent Ar 234 build by Radu in toe forum. I do hope that he also does the engines and offers them later in resin. I would be his first customer :-) Regards Roger

Hi, Does anybody know if there is a detail set or full resin (or similar) Jumo 004 in 1/32 scale? I couldn't find any via google and am wondering that there is not such a product on the market. I am sure with all these 1/32 Me 262 kits around it would be profitable to offer one. Regards Roger