F`s are my favs

So, did I get this right - is this the right config, for example, for airframe 65-12750? - the Lockheed seat (let's say before the update with the MB seat) ; - the spoked tire rims; - the nozzle with the thinner feathers; - the bulged front MLG door; - the intake cowlings with the squared APU doors; - plus the anti-collision light on the top fuselage.

Yep, thx very much for the photos, Kagemusha. I also reviewed the website that MikeC shared... and I almost downloaded all the photos of the Luke AFB Starfighters. I'll pick a specific airframe later in the build, but so far I'm happy that there are options. I'm after a rather clean build - with just the two fuel pods on the wing tips. Here is what makes me wonder the most now: - the front/larger doors of the MLG - they look not completely closed (in closed position) - is it normal like that, or maybe it's just luck (to find photos taken at this specific moment during the closing of the wheel well door)? - Also, as far as I understand, the cones and the air intake lips are black on all the photos I came across - were all the planes from the variant with ''black intakes'' indeed, or is it just luck to find such images only? - And right behind the canopy (also on all photos), along the centerline on the top, there is something like a ''small'' yellow-ish panel - is it some sort of a provision for something, or what is it? - The arresting hook - was it standard for all the planes from the variant (G's at Luke AFB)? - About the ejection seat - I found info that it was possible that the G planes were produced with the Lockheed seat (C2, or Type 2 maybe?!) and later retrofitted with the Martin Baker seat. If this is true, can I keep the seat for the resin casting as it is? (although it appears a bit smaller when testfitted in the plastic rails on the rear bulkhead). Thank you all for the insight!

Weathering adventures: very very subtle initial highlighting of some areas with oil paints - this is the bottom fuselage ready, and the mixture I used: The top fuselage is ready as well: It needs a few weeks to dry properly, then I plan to seal everything with a final matt coat, and do the heavy black streaks on the bottom fuselage and on the exhaust plates also with oil paints. Meanwhile , I'm starting my third large scale plane - the Starfighter.

While waiting for the oil paints on the Nighthawk to dry properly, I just started another very special kit - the Italeri's Starfighter G/S: However, I'm still not certain of the exact version yet . This is my first of the US legacy planes if we don't count the SR-71. Althought it is the G/S version by default, and the included markings are all about German, Spanish, Italian, etc. planes, I'm 100% positive I want a conversion into a US plane with the shiny aluminum panels. My knowledge about the Starfighter is slim, anyway, the bare metal US version is the only kind of this plane that I always liked a lot. I did my best to find US aftermarket decals ever since I got the kit... but I could't. So, I got me high-res pics of the two decal sheets for the C version, and started studying/comparing them. I'm 99% optimistic I'll manage to do the conversion - I have the four national insignias from leftover kits that are in the correct registry and size (already compared them). The big black letters can easily be made out of masks as they are the same color. For everything else (stencils/smaller signs) - I'll use combinations of the included decal sheets - even with some little modifications, they will work. However, that's all I know at the moment... This kit offers a TON of options, and there are many steps in the instructions that include optional parts for 4-5-6 versions, including the C and G version. My knowledge extents to that the C version is the main US Starfighter, and that there was a moment when the G version was also with the US markings/bare aluminum before delivery to Europe. This made me lean towards the G version, but again - I'm not certain at all. I'd appreciate any help and bits of advice! I just don't know what to do. I downloaded two huge (100+ pages) magazines from where I learned that the G version from that period flew either from Luke AFB or somewhere in Southern California, had larger tail with fully moveable rudder, two sidewinder rails under the fuselage, and an improved radar system (but I'll keep the radome closed). I got me several aftermarket parts throughout the years - an AIRES pilot figure/seat, a Reskit nozzle, and 3D instrument panel decals by Quinta Studio: At first glance, the kit includes optional parts for the nozzle, the seats, the main wheel well doors, the intake cowlings, the tires, and I could be missing something. As the aftermarket parts go - here are my doubts: 1) I got that AIRES pilot figure only because I want a pilot figure, but it has a seat as well... which is the standard Lockheed seat, but it should be the Martin Baker seat for the G version. So, was there a time/possible reason for the Startfighers to use the Lockheed seet instead. Or, if I do a conversion to the C version - is it realistic to keep the Lockheed seat then? Otherwise, if neither versions used the Lockheed seat, I can just cut it from the part and use the OOB Martin Baker seat instead (which is very good btw). 2) The ResKit resin nozzle - it is with the longer turkey feathers, and is way better than the two optional nozzles from the kit, so I want to use it. But, did either one of the C/G versions use this longer type of nozzle? If not, I can shorter the afterburner can a bit, so the nozzle sits further inside the fuselage, and make it look like the shorter one. I'm sure I'll have many questions along the way, and I appreciate any tips and ideas. I have quite some documentaries to watch and read about this plane as well, but this is another hobby by itself. So, I started from the cockpit - there at least is one option only, and the instruction sheet for the Quinta Studio decals says ''F-104G''... It's also my first time using 3D printed decals and I checked a couple of tutorials... it looks relatively easy. I started by flattening the instrument panels on the OOB parts... it was an adventure: I'm not promising, but I want to ''simplify'' the assembly phase as much as possible. Only the wheels will be retractable for an in-flight and parked display, and the canopy will be moveable. The emphazis would be on the bare metal skin, for which I'm gonna use a combination of the AMMO Aluminum Tape and another self-adhesive aluminum tape from the hardware store (that looks just about the same as the AMMO's, but slightly thicker). It will be my first time doing things like that as well. Alternatively, I got a bottle of Micro Metal Foil Adhesive by Microscale and tried using it with bare kitchen foil... I did trials at least 2 years ago with the two methods, and the results were exactly the same. I initially thought that the Microscale's MMFA will harden with the time and will hold stronger, etc. but nope, it's absolutely the same as the self-adhesive tape, just requires extra attention during application. I'll use the self-adhesive tapes instead. First things first - on to the cockpit. Which reminds me of another question I had today - is it allrgith to glue the decal directly on the central console as it is, with the hole on the plastic surface that used to be the radar screen? Is the decal strong/hard enough to keep a straight shape, or is there a risk of concaving down due to the ''hole'' for the radar screen underneath? Thx!

Another question if I may - did the F-104G US version carry the gun as well? About the moment before shipping to Europe, when they were with US insignia, with the shiny metal skin, and were used mainly for training. Thx

+1! That's an awesome kit and a great choice of airframe... I did the exact same once upon a time... although many pics are missing now.

I actually ended up using bare metal foil in the model - for the inner/larger side of the exhaust plates... As they move up and down to regulate the boundary cooling air in the real plane, they have a very distinctive edge and a different color (than the outermost trailing edges). It would have been possible to do it with just painting, but I prefer that unique metal shine at a certan angle (due to the very thin transparent coat of paint over it). Here it is just glued: And ready. It changes color and reflection at every angle, has a very nice thin trailing edge that now looks like a plate on the top of another plate, and it was very easy to do the 4-rivet indentations for perhaps the actuators underneath (I'm not sure what their purpose is, but they are clearly visible in almost every pic of the real plane). There are also some very thin (9 or 10) lines at that outermost plate, penperndicular to the trailing edge, which were originally in the OOB parts, but I deleted them as they were way way out of scale. I found them visible in only a few of the real plane pics, so I prefer not to add them. The weathering will be more than enough and will do it justice. Then, the decals and the discoloration of certain panels/parts are ready. Pick a side... both are tremendous. Some legit Lightning II vibes underneath: And the top. Btw I found out some discrepancies concerning the decals (lack of decals, a few are out of scale), but I did some modifications. Here it is: Now I need some time to enjoy it as it is in its ''shiny'' shape, and will proceed with the (very subtle) weathering and the final matt coat, which should change its look completely. Cheers & happy NYE holidays!

About the landing gear - yeah, it is recommended to go through all the instructions in the first place, and then decide what would work best for you. I can memorize almost 100% of all the instructions (and sometimes even have dreams about it ), and I can't remember not even a single model where I ended up following the instructions 1/1. In this case, it is very useful that the ''main part'' of the main landing gear (that holds the pylon) is already molded together with the fuselage, so it is as strong as it gets, and makes it easy to add the pylons, etc. after gluing the fuselage. But you need to test fit and prep everything else beforehand (if you do wires and stuff), to avoid working the model once everything is glued. It's almost the same with the nose wheel bay - I'm almost certain it was a separate piece, so you have to glue it and prepare it in advance, including test fitting of the door, and the pylon itself, with the ''diagonal'' strut. Anyway, the best way to make the symmetry spot on and not risking to ''break'' something - is to glue all sub-assemblies without the gear. Although cast out of metal, it's not a great idea to apply any pressure on top of the model while sitting on the landing gear. I just recalled something - if I'm not mistaken - there was a bunch of ''higher'' rivets or bolts protruding from the bottom fuselage piece (there are rivet imitations like holes, but those are actually protruding higher than the plastic surface, including tiny holes in them), right along underneath the intakes somewhere... close to the gear bays... if this is the same in the C version - it would be nice to protect them with a piece of paper tape throughout the whole build, to keep their edges crisp and sharp.

Hi and Merry Xmas to you too! That's an awesome kit. As far as I can remember from the E version, which are basically the same kits - all trailing edges were too too thick, especially the vert. stabilizers - I thinned them a lot. Also, the surfaces were quite plain - they needed a lot of rivetting. And if you use the stock turkey feathers for the nozzles (I'm not sure they are included in the exterior PE kit) - their trailing edges were also quite thick and needed thinning/sanding. Have fun and build it good!

Here it is after the subtle sanding - the ''white'' edges from the Surfacer really appeared very very nicely. I left them only on certain key areas, according to the reference images. It is ready for further discoloration of some areas, and decals. From now on - there will be only transparent coats of black/bluish flters...

It didn't go without a hitch, but kinda worked very well at the end (still plenty of things to do). So, the plan was, after removing the masking stripes: , to use these highlighted edges (or rims) afterwards. They are ever so slightly higher than the rest of the surfaces, that after sanding them ever so slightly, they must leave ''white'' demarcation lines over the ''black'' paint. Of course, they are so so thin, than it wouldn't be possible to do them with just the usual masking and painting technique. So, basically I'm using the thickness of a couple of layers of Surfacer primer to make these ''lines''. Here is how it looks overall: (PS: some pics are at night with white flashlight, others are in the morning) Then, it was a bummer that I couldn't nail the right ''black'' color from the first time. There are two invisible layers underneath (one quite reddish, one quite bluish), but I'm happy with this ''black'' at the end: I know it changes hues and shine at every angle, and the phone changes settings every time, hopefully several pics will make it easier to determine. Going ahead...

Awesome model, awesome weathering, just superb! Big congrats! btw if you accept votes - I'd vote for the F-35B next.

wowsers! Congrats on finishing it! ...It is just beyond realistic.... super realistic! Awesome weathering of course.

And... here is the prep of the top of the fuselage - first drawing the main pattern with a pencil: then, after some decent scraping and sanding operations: Then the new adventure started, at least to me. I decided to use metal stripes (the aluminum ones, with the self-adhesive layer underneath) to imitate the overlapping of the RAM coatings... I did some initial imitaiton during the oil canning effect, via scraping and scrathing in straight (slightly deeper) lines, but I thought it would be much much better to add the metal stripes over it. It was my first time using this kind of metal ''sheets'' (and as training for the Starfighter )... So I did the trials with the ruddervators only... I primed them with Surfacer, then some fine sanding...and... nope. It's way way out of scale. I couldn't left them like that, not to mention all over the plane if I had to continue. So I peeled the metal stripes off, and... I secretly hoped the thickness of the primer would be just enough. And it was. So instead of adding metal stripes - the method will be just masking (with normal masking tape), then priming, a second thicker coat, then removing the stripes, fine sanding, and then continue with the painting stage. Here are some pics - the masks/stripes are on: And after the first coat of primer: (note how those stripes with the masking tape look like, with low-angle light... they would have looked the same if they were aluminum stripes staying permanently) I plan to continue with partial removal of the stripes (will leave bare plastic), then gun metal metalizer all over, then full removal of the stripes, then very subtle polishing, and then the painting... wish me luck. Mery Xmass y'all, and cheers!

Yep, Brian, thx much. I'm following the ''recent'' F-117 topic over the BM forums and noticed you mentioned that company as a source for the mesh... it was quite some time ago, a year or so... It is indeed ''The Thing'', but I closed both IR provisions already. And what also made me choose my ''improvizations'' over the perfect mesh is the fragility - it is such a fine mesh that I need to be 101%+ carefull while handling the model. It just looks too dangerous to me, and I'm afraid that just a subtle touch and it would leave some kind of indentation, stretch it unevenly, etc. and then it would be quite difficult to replace the mesh once the model is painted/finished. Not to mention all the touching and the moving of the model throughout this oil canning effect, then the priming/painting/weathering... Yet, I was thinking once upon a time really serious to ask you about that mesh (I remember I couldn't find the exact size/pattern), but I just prefer to have a proper ''cover'' in those areas, especially the FLIR which... I suppose, it would collect dust and fine particles easier than the DLIR, even if stored properly - and, how to clean it... what if the dust particles enter through the mesh (although it looks impossible)... It's just about the same for the air intakes - there is no way to leave the PE mesh just glued along the edges of the ''openings'' - that's why I added some strong backings made out of acryllic, and then the PE mesh will go over them. Anyway, thanks a lot for the link again.

Small up - the oil canning is done on the bottom side, I like it quite a lot: And I finally went on a decalling adventure of the launch rails... they are ready. It all started like this: Of course on the zoomed photos they don't look as good as in person, but I like them anyway. This is one of those Number 1 reasons why you should keep leftover decal sheets in storage. Note how they don't look equally weathered with the rest of the white surfaces... I'm still debating should I weather them or not...

Tremendous endeavour! I did a conversion to a what-if F-23A serial version of the plane (in 1/48 though) and I can barely imagine what would it be in 1/32. It is going to be huge, larger than the Raptor.I would have celebrate if you model the serial production variant (there are quite decent drawings as well), but hey, this one will be a blast as well. Have fun!

I will not add a single rivet or such kind of indentation, but I plan on doing some oil canning of the plastic surface. It worked very very very nicely with the Strike Eagle, in this scale, so I'm going ahead. A few pics before the starting of the editing of the underside. I compared with reference pics and tried to copy the pattern with a pencil first. Surely, I'll skip the composite materials will the oil canning effect.

Some small, yet perfectly visible upgrades of the surface... 1) The covers of most antenna provisions are not flush with the rest of the surface, and have to be. So, after a little bit of scraping, sanding and engraving - here are the front antennas before and after: I wonder if they can get filled up during all the priming, painting and what have you, but I'll go over the edges after each layer if needed. 2) So, next up - these two hex-shaped (GPS antennas I think?!) objects were way too too much inside the surface. It's not stealthy anyway. I went through a lot of pix, and they seem to me flush with the surface, and yet from a distinctively different material/surface. I ended up filling them with stock plastic sheet... took me a while to do the right hex shape for a proper match. Here is the difference - one is OOB as it was, and the other is already filled; then both complete and sanded. 3) These little knives or airflow pieces (or maybe with antennas inside?) on both outer sides of the exhaust plates, that I have no idea what they are and I never stumbled upon on related information - so the original pieces were way way out of scale... I made them out of PE stripes, and are still a bit larger for my liking, but are 100 times better than the original pieces - here is a comparison and a testfit: And with that, the surface treatment is almost ready. Aaaalmost. I will attach the ruddervators after some subtle oil canning effects...

So about 24h later, it appears solid as rock. I think it is enough to remove the guides, yet I went all along the edges with CA glue for just in case. For the main markings of the airframe (80-788) I'll use the beautiful DN Models masks, and for the canopy edges too. They fit nice. And here are quite zoomed silhouettes with the wheels/doors down. I'm happy with the symmetry.

The fuselage is glued.... finally. A few pics inside, for the memorabilia. And... I can't miss to say it - big gluing business here. Quite the contraptions indeed. The leading edges are perfectly straight now and I hope they will stay that way. At least on a macro level. A little bit of sanding gotta straighten them even more.

Thank u too, Troy! Squizzy, thx, and yep, quite many things going on recently with me, but I always keep building this and that when I can. I just had a few free days at home and managed to complete the weathering and prep the bays for pics, etc. Btw yesterday, I did a pre-final assembly check of all the parts, and I can say the model is just about ready for final assembly. Because of the moveable flaps, a slightly complex procedure in the gluing of the fuselage will be needed. I'll keep you updated.

And ready - just some subtle weathering and wiring. A few with the trapezes retracted: And extended... Now on to the launchers/rails + the bombs. The rails will be definitely visible, so I plan to jazz them all up justice, with all the tiny decals, colors, wires, knobs, etc... they got to look like tiny models by themselves... Cheers for now.

The bomb bays are done. It is not worth adding wires/cables/etc as they will not be visible at all... but I couldn't resist. So I added only a few + some subtle weathering. But first, the opening/closing of the doors: So, there are 5 quite large and strong magnets along the centerline - where the wall that devides the bay into two meets the bay doors. They will play the role of hinges... combined with the small pieces of metal wire integrated into the edges of the doors - to provide enough force to keep the doors up when open. I couldnt figure out a way to do it with real hinges, so I had to improvize... but it works. And I had to add a couple of protruding ''self-leveling'' pins that drop just by gravity. They are with the width of the ''empty'' space between the doors - just to keep them stand symmetrically while open. When the doors are closed - I just turn the model upside down and the pins drop down in their holes by themselves, and the doors fit flush. Just another angle: Here they are hanging on the magnets - the pins are noticeable, but they will not be once everything is glued to the fuselage, as there is enough thickness of the fuselage to ''hide'' the pins... The bay doors are awesome in quality otherwise - perfectly straight, stiff, and with plenty of details.... btw I did some rivetting as well, and magnets on the opposite edges to keep them attached to the fuselage when closed. The hydraulics... made them moveable too And painting + testfit: You can see on that latter pic how I ended up doing the ''airflow disturber'' screens along the front edges of the bays - quite the simplest way - just metal rods that slide in tubes, and drop/retract by gravity. The movement needed quite some testfitting and trimming, but I skipped the ''detailing'' here as that front wall of the bays wouldn't be visible.

I kinda don't know what to say, but just to tell I'm quite impressed! That's wassup! Just a little question - why are there those subtle ''inward kinks'' in the chines? If we assume it is based on the A-version, the vertical walls of the fuselage above/below the chines should have been straight (like on the Raptor)... here I tried to highlight them in red. The concave surfaces were a characteristic trait of the YF-version of the plane... as far as I know...