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Bails

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  1. I need some clarification on the dihedral of the wings (and possibly) of the horizontal stabs of the P-39D. What on-line resources can I use which show the dihedral on 1x1's? Thanks. Peace, Bails-In-Minnesota
  2. Rob, maybe if you dig just a bit deeper into yourself you'll find that elusive answer as to why you find Trumpeter kits so repugnant....there just has to be an answer in there somewhere. That said, based on your comments, I'm putting my money on you being driven away by what you see as lousy box art. Suggest you settle on that and go hit that stash hard. Bails
  3. Welcome back. To answer part of your question, the general rule is this......lacquer, topped by enamel, topped by acrylic....never put lacquer or enamel on top of acrylic. Some modelers "pull the tiger's tail" and don't follow this rule, however many have tried and failed, including me. No doubt you will get other input on this topic. Bails-In-Minnesota
  4. Primer is a must to avoid etching the plastic, although some cats say its not needed. I use lacquer-based primers, including the new Model Master Lacquer line, particularly the black lacquer....thinned to about 60 % high quality automotive paint lacquer thinner to 40% paint.....this is misted-on for the first coat or 2 before "heavying-up". Bright finishes need black primer to get the best shine from the Alclad....plus you get the super-smooth finish needed for NMFs. Regardless of the primer used, it is best to use light "mist" Alclad coats.....3 light coats usually does it for me. Avoid heavy coats at all costs to avoid a messed-up finish. For further poop, "Swanny" has a great "how-to" for Alclad. Google Swanny to get his site. Bails-In-Minnesota
  5. P.S. Also, hit ARC's "Tools-n-Tips" forum. bails
  6. Thanks, Adrian, for the followup. Man, I have NO idea of what to tell you at this point. Since you have yet to get a response that will seem to work for you, suggest you hit HyperScale and Modeling Madness with your issue. It seems like someone out there should have an answer for you.....if the right person sees your comment. Again, all good luck to you. bails
  7. Hi Adrian. I just gotta tell you......4 parts thinner to 1 part paint really does seem like a super-duper thinned paint. Most folks recommend even parts thinner and paint.....a 50-50 ratio. This usually thins the paint to a skim milk "thiness". For doing German camo patterns, a ratio of 65% to 70% thinner to paint often works well......with the pressure turned down and the airbrush in a tight pattern. I suggest you start with the 50-50 ratio and go from there.....practicing a lot on pieces of copy paper or small sheets of styrene. Practice, practice, practice......then practice some more. As you are discovering, there are a bunch of variables involved in using the airbrush......paint to thinner ratio, air pressure, airbrush adjustment, distance from subject, humidity, and so on. Next to practice, patience is critical. With time and experience you will get a "feel" for what works for you, but it will take a number of models to get you on your way to being pleased with results. All good luck to you. bails
  8. Hi Brian. FYI....there is a discussion of this very issue over at the HypeScale forum....its fresh....today. Bails-In-Minnesota
  9. Most folks do cut the instruments out individually. If you don't wish to invest in rather expensive punch-die sets, I suggest you buy a good pair of small cuticle scissors at your favorite discount store. These bad boys are super sharp and curved so you can do the cutting without too much trouble in 1/32nd.....in 1/72nd, it becomes a problem. Bails-In-Minnesota
  10. Bails

    1/32 I-16

    Hi Jeff. The Azur 1/32nd I-16 type 10 has been available for 4 months or so. Check rollmodels.com or any of your favorite sites for it. Check the build articles with photos at this site.......Gino Dykstra in mid Jan. Also, check at Hyperscale for article by Steve Palffy in mid December. Mine is built and awaiting decals. Its a great looking model however it does not just fall together......but NOT a difficult build. Bails-In-Minnesota
  11. Hi Ango. You have been given lots of good poop from folks who know about these things.....from experince. I will offer you only one thing.....the name of possibly the best lacquer thinner to use for ALL of your enamels.....buy a gallon of Duracryl DTL876 Acrylic Lacquer Thinner by PPG.....get it at your favorite auto paint supply store. It is NOT for our hobby acrylic paints.....it IS for our enamels and lacquers. This stuff just works better than anything I have ever used. Gives me smooth finishes and dries quickly. It was recommended some years ago at HyperScale. It costs about $25 per gallon which is super-cheap by the ounce when compared to the hobby paint thinners. I clean my hand and air brushes with the cheapest odor-free mineral spirits I can find, however for the airbrushes, I give one final blast with a bit of the lacquer thinner prior to setting it aside. Bails-In-Minnesota
  12. Mike M. is right on the money. You did not say if the glue had already set-up and you wanted to "un-set" it. If "debonding" the glue is what you want, follow Mike's advice and use a debonder for CA glue.....they come by many names and most hobby shops carry it. Not to knock water or pineapple juice or any kind of juice, but the only effective means of debonding CA is to use a debonder, designed to do the job. Of course, they make the stuff for crazies like us who make goofs and gaffs when we glue-up little plastic things. You are NOT alone, mate. Bails-In-Minnesota
  13. Although I am not an apologist for Tom Cleaver, I do have a few thoughts about him and his work. First, I'm not an expert modeler with great skills, however I do care deeply about this crazy hobby of gluing up little airplanes, which I've been doing on-and-off for 32 years. Tom's build-reviews really do serve me quite well because they provide "watch-out-fors" and building tips......for example, he showed photos of his work on how to finish the wings of the Trumpeter Wildcat in the "down" position so they don't droop. I tested it and it worked quite well for me. I have many examples of his help over the past 5 years or so since I again got serious about our hobby. Furthermore, when I had a specific issue I needed help on, Tom was eager to be supportive.......that says a lot about where his heart is, IMHO. I also look forward to Tom's historical commentaries which he includes in his build articles; they give me a snapshot of the past related to the specific subject at hand which I appreciate. I also find his writing quite engaging. Bottom line for me........I'm glad TC is eager to share his work with us; for me, the good stuff he provides far outweighs any biting comments he might have.....in fact, I rather admire his willingness to put into words what many of us think, but are unwilling to lay out for the world to see. Food for thougt. Bails-In-Minnesota
  14. I am unsure of how to use this section but in time I'll get on board with the rest of you. Thanks to all of you who took time to reply to my request for poop on the 520. I have copied two build articles which will be of great help. Thanks, too, for welcoming me to this place. I have been visiting now and then but will come back daily now to see what I can gleen. Again, thanks for caring. Bails-In-Minnesota
  15. Hi folks. I'm new here, so please be a bit patient with this mostly 1/48th model person! I am getting more heavily into 1/32nd and liking it a lot, especially as new kits keep hitting the market. I received the Azur 520 last week and am wondering if anyone has built this kit or is in the process of building it. A "build article" would be of great help to me. Any input about what to look out for in the build will be appreciated. Thanks to you all for this very well-done site. Bails-In-Minnesota
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