OldTroll

That is a truly impressive model! Your deft touch with detailing and weathering have improved an already superlative kit into a museum piece. Bravo!

Beautiful build! And a very nice collection started!

I believe the Fokkers and Hannover CL.II reflect the new pricing levels. I got the impression from the newsletter that the price increases would apply to the "old" kits...goodbye $59 Albatros, etc. Still the best buy out there when you consider the factors enumerated by Typhoon above. Where do I sign up for a lifetime subscription? Having said that, I just posted my order for a couple more Junkers Flying Tanks while they are still only $79.00.

Based on answers (and non-answers) I have gotten from WNW in the past year I would say that the appearance of any Nieuports and SPADs in the near future is unlikely. Maybe further down the road WNW may turn its attention to French aircraft (nice surprise, the Salmson!) but Brit and German subjects seem to have their immediate attention. I would like to see some DH4 variants, a DH10, 1-1/2 Strutter, Bristol Scouts, Blackburn Kangaroo, SOPWITH DOLPHIN, Fokker E.V/D.VIII, Halberstadt CL.II and just about any Albatros/Aviatik/AEG/Roland two-seaters. All we can do is send polite requests for our favorites to WNW and hope they make it to the top of the list.

That's just about as good as it gets! Magnificent build, detailing, weathering and display. I look forward to your next project.

LOL - you chose the same scheme I did. I am doing the "in progress" option with some of the orange not yet applied. I have mixed feelings about the "streaky paint" decal and am tempted to fore-go the decal and do an actual streaky paint application. I worry about the decal looking too much like a decal - but the build by Dave Johnson on the WNW site sure looks good and he used the decal. Any thoughts?

The forward fuselage frame and the parts that attach to it are very sensitive to "extra" material interfering with a good fit. I found that even a layer of paint can interfere so insure you remove all mold lines and primer/base coat in the vicinity of any joints. Some of the locations are a little vague on the assembly drawings but some pre-glue test fitting should clarify parts locations. WNW has provided positive locators (pin/hole or uniquely shaped tabs) to assist in getting it right but I still managed to booger a couple joints up which has caused some fit problems regarding cowling/radiator later in the assembly. It is safe to say that if it doesn't fit right, you should recheck your assumptions; as far as I can tell, WNW has gotten the fit dead on. The overall alignment of the framework forward of the firewall needs to be kept true during assembly also. I have had to step away from my D,VII build because I was making a not good situation worse (all my doing, no fault of WNW.) One of my Sopwith Pups is providing a "rest facility" for a few days. Good luck with the build!

I think if there was a viable market for such models then the Hasegawa 1/8 scale "museum" quality kits would still be in full production. While intrigued by the complexity and challenge of assembling such a model I never purchased any of the Hasegawa kits as I am far more interested in the exterior (camouflage, personal markings, etc.) than I am in the interior.

Looks mighty fine to me! I hope I can do as well with mine.

Schemes A, B, C and D all employ the hand-painted polygons for the plywood fuselage and wing center section. In the case of schemes A, B and C most of the fuselage is oversprayed such that the underlying painted polygons may or may not still be visible to some degree. Each of those schemes use a multi-colored "paint drop" as the color key with the individual colors defined alongside. Those schemes are certainly going to be challenging! I am looking forward to try one of those schemes since I do not use an airbrush; challenging indeed!

Hmmm...install one of your extra WNW Mercedes D.III engines and you almost have the Cl.III version of this aircraft.

Just when I spent next month's bill payments on a half dozen Fokker D.VIIs, BAM! they hit me with one of my all-time favorites. I asked my wife if I could have a couple and she said, "Make up your mind - WNW or me!" I'm going to miss her. Order in for two!

Actually, I want the Snipe and D.VII right after the Dolphin! I know, I know...but I can still dream.

I think we may be in for a stretched out Fokker D.VII release. Given that we have three manufacturers (Fokker, OAW and Albatros) and two engines (Mercedes and BMW) and distinct differences in early/mid/late production from each manufacturer I can see at least six different model numbers being released. I do think we will see some in time for Christmas, though...perhaps right after the Sopwith Snipe!

Silly Typhoon - it will be in the WIP section - LOL

Sorry to hijack the Fokker D.VII/photo techniques/Brit boring camouflage thread but WNW has released their Sopwith Triplane kit. LOL - just kidding, guys but I just found number of "sub-threads" amusing. Waiting on shipping notice for my triple tripes!

The primary difference between the various builder's (Fok., OAW, Alb.) versions was in the louvered panels on the engine bay and, of course, the engine itself (BMW or Mercedes.) The 3-part Fokker D.VII Anthology by Albatros Publications gives detailed explanations and illustrations of the variations, both by builder and timeframe of production.

Just ordered three for me...get 'em while they're hot!

I seem to remember that YZC and GZC were not "paints" per se but rather protective, anti-corrosion coatings - more like a varnish with the YZC/GZC powder mixed as opposed to an actual pigment/carrier mix. I think this makes the shade of the YZC/GZC "color" dependant on the metal to which it was applied since the YZC/GZC coating was somewhat translucent.

I must agree with Jennings - RAL 7011 seems much too dark for lettering. Based on the RAL chip site I would recommend RAL 7040 or 7042 as a good match for the grey used for squadron codes (no matter what the paint name really was.) I guess I must double-check my previously trustworthy paint cross-reference chart in the future. Thanks for the sharp eye, Jennings.

Dark Green - FS595 34079 - RAL 6031 should be OK Dark Earth - FS595 30118 - RAL 8025 is close but needs a little more green in it Sky - FS595 34504 - RAL 6027 or 6034 might do Medium Sea Grey - FS595 36270 - RAL 7011 is good Roundel Blue (Dull) - FS595 35048 - RAL 5013 or 5000 might do Roundel Red (Dull) - FS595 30109 - RAL 8003 is close but needs to be darker with more red Roundel Yellow - FS595 33538 - RAL 1003, 1017, 1018 are all good. I hope this helps.

By mid-1940 the "standard" scheme would be Dark Green and Dark Earth uppers in either the 'A' or reverse 'B' pattern. Undersides would be one of the "Sky" variations. Roundels on the upper surfaces would be Red/Blue. Undersurfaces could have no roundels or have Red/White/Blue ones. The fuselage roundels would be Red/White/Blue/Yellow but the overall size and the proportions of the rings could vary. There were several variations of fin flash, all being Red/White/Blue with Blue at the hinge. Squadron/Aircraft codes would be in Medium Sea Grey and also varied in size, shape and style. As is almost always the case it is best to have photos and/or other references for the specific aircraft being modeled. I recommend "The Battle of Britain On Target Special" by the former Aviation Workshop Publications. I believe all their publication inventory went to Hannant's upon the cessation of operations. I hope this gets you pointed in the right general direction.

Wingnut Wings is offering most, if not all, of the engines from their kits as separate items. Just the ticket for upgrading other manufacturers' kits or for quick insertion into a (mostly) scratchbuilt item. Prices seemed quite reasonable.

Brilliant finish to a most interesting project. Well done!

One of the most stunning models I have ever seen. Your investment in time (and rubles) has certainly given a great return. Certainly a front runner for Build of the Year(s) award!