Out2gtcha

Personally for me, I think Future works awesome; for canopies and instrument dials ONLY. I love it for those two things...........but for anything else, especially a gloss coat for an aircraft or weathering base is just not worth it. The Future is too susceptible to damage early, takes WAY too long to dry, is very easily damaged by other weathering medium and easily runs and drips if put on even a little thick. Not to mention is a detail eater as it goes on SO thick and atomizes the same way. RANT OVER. Id say yes, just let it dry for days and days OR just got out and get yourself some Model Master Lacquer clear coats. They come in flat, semi-gloss, and gloss. They almost NEVER run, go on silky smooth, dont EVER react to things like Miniral spirits and the best part? They atomize SO fine in your air brush that you can put on just a coat or 2 (which by the way dries in LITERALLY a matter of minutes and you can shoot the next coat or OVER coat) and it fills NO detail. Even though they sound scary with "lacquer" in the title, these MM Lacquer clears amazingly enough can even be sprayed over acrylic, but they are designed to go over enamel. I have found they dry SO fast and thin, and work SO well in fact , that you can shoot them over almost ANY paint. Good enough that ever single modeling friend I have turned these clears on to, like myself, will not use anything else ever again. Brian

Another question for ANY of you reading this that happen to have this G-14 kit un-assembled OR assembled with the ability to take the spinner off.... Have this kit coming (one way or anther from either E-bay if I win or SB) but in the mean time, Ian from Ad Astra was generous enough to make me a set of custom masks for the particular scheme Id like to do, BUT needs a measurement from the fuselage to get the size of the artwork correctly. Could anyone with this Has kit measure the diameter of the kit nose immediately behind the spinner – this will enable Ian to scale the artwork correctly. Thanks in advance and cheers, Brian

Thanks man! Actually quite a high complement considering the quality of some of your stuff............ Brian

Thanks Phartycr0 I have a thing for unusual subjects, floatplanes and axis in allied schemes and vice versa.....Myself, I cant wait to get to the foiling stage. Cheers, Brian

Thanks a heap for the nice word guys! It mucho appreciated. The interior is really just a representation of a lot of the P-40 interiors ive seen including some resos. Everything is there to represent a good look to the eye as apposed to what may be accurate. Cheers, Brian

Thanks very much, very kind of you to say Automaton Im not sure its fearsomely good, in person, but you are correct, it looks way better in person than in the (fairly) huge digy pics. To tell you the truth, I never planned any of those pics to be so big, but I was re-sizing cause it seemed I coulndt see any of the detail I worked to get. Looks as if I went a bit in the opposite direction. Etiher way thanks for the kind words. Cheers, Brian

Nother update.............. Been working quite a bit on the front office. Been cutting out Radus belts, and the IP still is not photography worthy I dont believe, so heres the rest of it. Used a combo of diluted MM black sprayed at low pressure for the lowlights/ shadow, drybrush of the same interior green lightened with MM flat white for highlights, undercoat of aluminum and salt for chipping, lead wire for misc cockpit wires, and PE with a final addition of Tamiya pigment weathering, and a wash of ProModeller Sand wash. I also used Future over the instrument dials on the cockpit floor, and faded the headrest a bit from top to bottom, and dry rubbed the cockpit floor rudder channels to simulate the pilots foot wear, before weathering both with sand wash as well. Wasnt happy with the Eduard PE throttle quadrant either, so that is a scratched piece with extra PE for throttle lever and a piece of led wire for the actual throttle grip. Cut out the tiny maps and flight plans from internet pics printed out on my PC double-sided, then folded to match the size of the Eduard PM map holder. The Idea/look I was going for was a really dusty, dirty, heavily used cockpit at its peak of operational use in Australia. 100% accurate? I'm sure not, but but I like it anyway, hope you do too.

Awesome, Thanks Mark! Now to see if I have any luck with auctions. I almost always win when I have a by it now. Brian

Awesome Jerry.............PM sent. Cheers, Brian

Wow! Really Jerry?? Of course..............thats mighty generous of you my friend. Not necessary but VERY generous! Thanks Jerry! Your OOB and still make some of the best and in a lot of cases the most accurate stuff too. Ive got Ad Astra making me a custom mask set for this G-14 project as well. PM me Jerry and Ill take care of any postage or expense you incur. Cheers! Brian

Nice work wrastlin' the warp back into place. I know all to well what its like to end up lookin down the fuse only to find your worst "twisted" fear has come true. Cheers, Brian

Thanks MIke..............and yes you are correct for sure...........as I mentioned above the EagleParts Boss is in this kits future for SURE! PhilB used it on his F-4 Trop, and it does look brilliant......... Cheers, Brian

Nice Mark! Just got done looking over your build for my upcoming (at some point at least) Swiss g-14 build..............Lots of great stuff in here! Cheers, Brian

Thanks Mark! I will def check out your build for sure. I did also see Theirry's tweak list as well. Im going to make this 109 "accurate" but im not rivet counter especially when it comes to the 109, as some of the most insane idiotic threads Ive ever seen were surrounding Bf 109s and various accuracy and corrections issues, coming almost to the point of ridiculousness............... With that being said, for as very well thought out as Theirrys tweak list is, other than stuff I usually like to do like front office kit, PE, resin wheels, and in this builds case, some of Radu's wells and conopy and a EagleParts Boss, and a set of GF legs, most of the things on that list are inconsequential to me and not something I would ever mess with or change. With the possible exception of getting (again IF applicable) the EagleParts battery box and oil cooler. Thanks again Mark..........goin to check out your build. Cheers, Brian

Looking good Kev! Im actuallly going to be trying my old melted sprue filling technique as well but like you, im going the turpentine route this time, so the sprue material only absorbs what it needs, and you dont end up with a stringy mess when trying to fill panel lines Keep those pics comin! Cheers, Brian

Thanks Ray! I thought about the mounts getting in the way and also toyed with the idea of drilling the hole in the bench and then sleaving it for re-inforcement, but decided it was a bit too much work, and with the amount or elbow room I have ahead of the main bench, the admittedly clunky brackets don't really get in the way. I did however discover an unintended GOOD consequence of mounting them as I did........... With both the lamps on those brackets, it keeps their swivel movement/travel out of the way of any of the bench surface, and I can put "things" (AKA kit box, storage or whatever) almost right up to the back edge of the workbench, without interfering with the movement arc of the lights, nor take up any room with the lamp base itself that could be utilized for its intended purpose. HA! the room hasnt even been done a full 7 day week and its already looking like a Tornado of kit debris and LSP making tools came through........ Cheers, Brian

HA...........just answered my own question..........along with the G-6 wheels, I found the G-10/G-14 MDC cockpit set.

Thanks again..............G-14 use the same interior as the G-6 too? (sorry for the bombardment of questions here) Brian

Dude you rock Bill. Very concise and just the kind of explanation I was looking for! I am however planning on still adding things like Radu's wells, and canopy, EagleParts Boss (and maybe the lower intake scoop as well if appropriate for the G-14), some Eduard PE in and out, some resin wheels (which I forgot to ask about ), and lastly but def NOT leastly, a set of those glorious looking G-Factor landing gear. Speaking of wheels, Im not trying to start any debates but would like to know who makes the best AM wheels appropriate for a "late" G-14? Cheers, Brian

Im looking to (eventually) make a Swiss Bf 109 G-14 project and was looking for some opinions on this as Im by NO means a 109-O-phile, and I KNOW there are people out there who know all there is to know. Im not going over board with 109 accuracy on this kit, so dont need teh super details, just the basics. I will probably ever only make 1 109 and I have a specific one in mind and can pick a G-14 up for under 50 bucks HERE. Im going to build this one like I build all my models.....if it looks good to the eye then im good with it. I want it to be accurate, but Im not going to fuss over any rivet counting details. Some questions: 1. Is this a new or "old tool" kit? 2. Raised or recessed panel lines? 3. Accuracy? 4. Ease of build? 5. Is $45.00 US a good price for teh G-14 Has kit? 6. Can I buy a G-6 Has kit and install RadusBf 109 G-10 / 14 Earla Canopy and wheel wells? 7. Any other significant differences between the G-6 and 14 that a non rivet counter could get away with besides the canopy? 8. A better option out there to get a G-14 besides this Has kit? Cheers, and thanks in advance. Brian

Awesome...........Im not a huge Luftwaffe guy, but ive been waiting for this conversion, to get a 262. Im not planning on building two, so I wanted my one and only Me 262 build to be the Kanonenvogel Nice Job! When do you expect they are going to be ready for purchase? Brian

Thanks Geoff! Yeah surprisingly enough, quite handy with the amount of bench surface area I ended up with. I have ended up using one side of the bench for sub-assembly, and detailing, and the other side for foiling, detail painting and gluing. Brian

BITE YOUR TONGUE MAN! Just MHO , but the vilebeest or Vincent are decent looking bipes but cant hold a candle to the Walrus.

CRUD() Slang. 1. A coating or an incrustation of filth or refuse. 2. One who is contemptible or disgusting. 3. A disease or ailment, imaginary or real, especially one affecting the skin Love the belts, looks the mutz nutz! B

Ah, got confused by the reflective qualities of the artwork. Looks good either way Karl! Brian