scvrobeson Posted August 22, 2012 Share Posted August 22, 2012 Hey guys. While working on the Flycatcher, I started on another build in a smaller scale. I've wanted to build an Hs-129 for awhile, but couldn't afford the GMF kit, so I settled for the Hasegawa kit. I wanted to add almost all of the CMK resin sets to it, namely the interior, armament, and exterior set. These all give me the chance to open up almost all of the panels, and really show off the structure of the Henschel tank-killer. I plan to do it in a winter scheme with heavy hairspray chipping, something I've never tried before. It will be a fun experiment, but since these were mainly used on the Eastern Front, I wanted to show one painted that way. All of the interior parts have been painted with Tamiya acrylics, which airbrush so well. I substituted XF-24 Dark Grey instead of XF-63 German Grey, since with the tight cockpit, I knew the RLM 66 would be way too dark, so I lightened up the paint a bit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scvrobeson Posted August 22, 2012 Author Share Posted August 22, 2012 I couldn't really get a good picture of the IP, but it's the Hasegawa part, since I thought it looked a bit better than the PE version. Just to show how thinly cast some of the doors are, the door on the right is shown from the outside, and it's translucent. Good job CMK. I hope you all like this build. I know I'm going to have fun getting it all to fit into the airframe, but the detail is worth it. I hope to update this one pretty regularly. Thanks to everyone for reading in on this build, and all comments are welcome. Matt Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Peterpools Posted August 22, 2012 Share Posted August 22, 2012 Matt Great choice for a 48th scale project and it's going to b a a terrific one at that. Love the idea of opening everything and adding all the details. Great job on the fuel tank - perfect weather: Used but not Abused. Peter Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AndersN Posted August 22, 2012 Share Posted August 22, 2012 Looking good! I had no idea CMK made parts for this... Cheers Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daywalker Posted August 22, 2012 Share Posted August 22, 2012 Beautiful work so far, your subtle shading and drybrushing really bring all of those details to life. Can't wait to see more, especially that winter scheme! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LSP_Kevin Posted August 22, 2012 Share Posted August 22, 2012 Matt, that is some of the most effective dry-brushing I've seen. Awesome stuff! Kev Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scvrobeson Posted August 23, 2012 Author Share Posted August 23, 2012 Matt Great choice for a 48th scale project and it's going to b a a terrific one at that. Love the idea of opening everything and adding all the details. Great job on the fuel tank - perfect weather: Used but not Abused. Peter Thanks Peter. I figured that since the fuel tank was made of rubber, it wouldn't weather like the rest of the plane. I still have some more fuel stains to do with my Lifecolor stuff, but that will come once it's all flat-coated down. I really like twin-engine aircraft of World War 2, and since there are very, very few in 1/32, I have to do most of them in 1/48. I want to eventually do every major twin engine aircraft of the war, from England, Germany, USA, Poland, Japan, Russia, France, and Italy. That would be fun. Thanks for stopping in. I think the painting on your Mustang looks perfect. Matt Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scvrobeson Posted August 23, 2012 Author Share Posted August 23, 2012 (edited) Looking good! I had no idea CMK made parts for this... Cheers Hey Anders! yes, they actually make 5 different sets for the Henschel. They make an interior set, which comprises the cockpit, fuel tank, and a new canopy. An armament set which gives you the gun bay in the fuselage, radio bay, survival kit, pressurized air connection bay, and wing mounted gun magazines. The exterior set comprises control surfaces, brand new tail surfaces, and the wing fuel tanks. There is also an undercarriage set that I did not buy, that addresses the wheel wells, but you can't really see much inside there, so I skipped on it. And a final set that details the 30mm cannon in the bottom, and gives you the entire gun and magazine assembly. I'm still debating buying that one too to provide the finishing touch. The CMK resin has been very nice so far, much less sanding than I've experienced with other resin sets, and they were pretty cheap. I think all three resin sets put me back around $50 USD, which isn't bad at all. Thanks for reading in. If you want any pictures of the CMK components, let me know. http://www.cmkkits.com/en/index.php?lang=en&cmd=search&fModel=Hs+129&fSeries=0&fScale=16 Here is the actual link to all of the parts, in case you have your own Henschel you would like to detail. Matt Edited August 23, 2012 by scvrobeson Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scvrobeson Posted August 23, 2012 Author Share Posted August 23, 2012 Beautiful work so far, your subtle shading and drybrushing really bring all of those details to life. Can't wait to see more, especially that winter scheme! Thank you very much Frank! I'm glad you like it. I was actually inspired to try the winter scheme by a build of an Il-2 Sturmovik in Model Airplane International, where they did the weathered winter scheme with hairspray, and I figured it would be cool to try out. So I'm going to see if it works on here. If not, I'll just do it in standard splinter camo. Your F-16 build has been very amazing to follow, your painting skills are very great. Matt Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scvrobeson Posted August 23, 2012 Author Share Posted August 23, 2012 Matt, that is some of the most effective dry-brushing I've seen. Awesome stuff! Kev Wow, thank you Kevin. That is a huge compliment. I used Mig oil paint actually, their German Grey Highlight, and use a cheap make-up brush my mom had donated to my model building. The Mig oils are great, because they are very light and easy to drybrush, and you can really work them for a long time to get the shades that you want. The fuel tank is made of rubber, so I used Tamiya Nato Black on that part, and then picked out different parts in Flat Black, to look like non-rubber components. I learned that from the armor guys, and the Andrea Miniatures book I have about the Spanish school painting. I modify stuff for my use, but using the different colors really breaks up the shapes, and draws the eye I think to the different details. Once it's all weathered and sealed, I hope it will all look really good. Thanks for stopping in. I'm hoping to get the fuselage all sealed up by this weekend. Matt Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Peterpools Posted August 23, 2012 Share Posted August 23, 2012 Matt Your multi engine collection is going to be fantastic and keep you going for years to come. Painting question: I did my last few builds with acrylic paints: Model Master and Tamiya and never was happy with the granny/pigment finish - just not really smooth as compared to enamels. For the Mustang, I went back to 100% enamels and the smoothness of the paint sure says I made the right choice for me. I have a few bottles of Lifecolor but haven't used them yet. How would you compare them to enamels and the other major acrylic paints? Thanks Peter Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scvrobeson Posted August 23, 2012 Author Share Posted August 23, 2012 Matt Your multi engine collection is going to be fantastic and keep you going for years to come. Painting question: I did my last few builds with acrylic paints: Model Master and Tamiya and never was happy with the granny/pigment finish - just not really smooth as compared to enamels. For the Mustang, I went back to 100% enamels and the smoothness of the paint sure says I made the right choice for me. I have a few bottles of Lifecolor but haven't used them yet. How would you compare them to enamels and the other major acrylic paints? Thanks Peter Hey Peter. I'm surprised you have had bad luck with the Tamiya acrylics, I have always found them to be very good paint if you thin them down with either lacquer thinner or Mr. Color Leveling Thinner. The Lifecolor stuff that I use is their Tensocrom weathering agents, so not their actual paints. I've tried their paint before, and found it very temperamental to use, since they have to be thinned with distilled water or their own personal thinner, which can be hard to track down. I use their weathering stuff for fuel and oil stains, since their agents dry a bit glossy, which over a flat surface looks just like a fuel stain would look. Hope that helps. Matt Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Peterpools Posted August 25, 2012 Share Posted August 25, 2012 Matt I've tried everything and every way with both Tamiy and MM acrylics. By nature their pigment is much larger then that of enamels and the finish always has a texture to it. On the other hand, after finishing up the Seah Hawk build, I went back and did a side by side comparison for myself (something I almost never do) and in every test, the MM enamels produced a smoother finish then the acrylics. Of course, when it comes to clean up and drying times, nothing beats acrylics. When I did the gloss finish on my Bearcat, way back when, it was with MM acrylics and was a nightmare to get a deep gloss shine but with a lot of polishing, it eventually was there. I would be very interested in seeing what type of paints the guys prefer and why. Just my two cents worth. Peter Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scvrobeson Posted August 25, 2012 Author Share Posted August 25, 2012 Wow...lovely work! Thank you. I'm glad you like it. I mostly work in 1/48, so this is normal stuff for me. Sometimes it's easier for me to work with the smaller stuff than the large scale stuff, and it's easier for me to hide any mistakes that pop up. 1/32 has such a higher scope for detail, but also makes it much easier for mistakes to be visible. Matt Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scvrobeson Posted August 25, 2012 Author Share Posted August 25, 2012 Matt I've tried everything and every way with both Tamiy and MM acrylics. By nature their pigment is much larger then that of enamels and the finish always has a texture to it. On the other hand, after finishing up the Seah Hawk build, I went back and did a side by side comparison for myself (something I almost never do) and in every test, the MM enamels produced a smoother finish then the acrylics. Of course, when it comes to clean up and drying times, nothing beats acrylics. When I did the gloss finish on my Bearcat, way back when, it was with MM acrylics and was a nightmare to get a deep gloss shine but with a lot of polishing, it eventually was there. I would be very interested in seeing what type of paints the guys prefer and why. Just my two cents worth. Peter That's understandable. The enamel paints do have smaller pigments in them, true. But I do like using acrylics because of their quick work time, and I find it easier to weather them sometimes. But most of the time when I do exterior painting, I use Model Master enamel. Both for ease of use, and because of the vast range of colors that Tamiya just doesn't have. I've found that by running the paint very thin, and spraying in light coats, you can make sure your acrylic paint has no texture to it, but that took a long time to get that down right. Thanks for reading in. Hopefully I can get this one sealed up either today or tomorrow. Matt Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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