Hawkwrench Posted April 5, 2020 Share Posted April 5, 2020 How do you guys achieve a nice flat even look to your cockpit screens when using clear green? I applied tamiya clear green onto my center console screens and when it dried, it looked wavy and not flat. Do you guys thin it before brushing it on? If so, what with and what's the thinning ratio? Thanks Tim Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thierry laurent Posted April 6, 2020 Share Posted April 6, 2020 Hi, Alas, it is quite difficult to get a good result with a brush. An airbrush is recommended even for such small parts. The problem is the physical tension in the liquid. If you have no airbrush, you can try the following approach but this is not a panacea. Keep one sprue point on the part. Take the sprue and dip the part in clear green paint rather than brushing. Cautiously put slightly the lower corner of the part edge against tissue paper. Because of capillarity, this should absorb a large part of the paint and leave a thin, more regular layer on the part. Put the sprue in a pin while leaving the part horizontal to leave it drying. Obviously, this does not work to paint only a limited section of a part. This may be used for HUD glass. Last, another important aspect is the part preparation. Be sure it is smooth, with no blemish, plastic dust particle or even finger grease before trying to paint it. Alcohol is recommended to clean such parts. Personally, I'm cleaning all parts and assemblies with alcohol before painting. Hth Thierry Uncarina 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stevepd Posted April 6, 2020 Share Posted April 6, 2020 I find that it’s actually to thin, which is why it pools to the edges. I put some on a small bit of card or lid and let it go “off” for a bit. When it’s consistency thickens (still pliable) I then apply it. It works for me or I’ve just been lucky Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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