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What did you do to correct the intake on the Academy F-16I SUFA?


JimReagan

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THANKS for the many  suggestions I received from my earlier post about building a F-16. I have one simple question.

 

What did you do to enhance and or accuratize the intake of your Academy kit SUFA?

 

I have a CE intake set being shipped to me and I have  a set of  Tamiya intake & exhaust parts for the Pratt Whitney engine.

I understand they can be used with some effort.

 

I was advised that one resin manufacturer was planning to offer and intake correction set for the Academy kit this November

So far nothing has been advertised.

 

So what did you do nothing or something. I'd like to benefit from your suggestions.

 

I would also like to obtain a Wolfpack F16I cockpit set for my Academy build.

 

I just advertised my Isracast F-16I SUFAconveersion kit for sale or tradeon Hyperscale's  Plane Trading.  If you are inclined check it out

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Jim,

 

  What I did (plan on doing) is combine the Hasagawa kit with the Academy kit. Let me preface this with I wouldn't do it unless I had both kits in the stash or I could pick up at least one of the kits cheap. For the purpose of this post, I picked up the Sufa kit at a club sale for $75 and the Hasagawa kit for $10, so I've only got a total of $85 in this project so far. I regularly see the Academy F-16C kits at shows for about $50-$60 and the Hasagawa F-16A kits for $20-$30. This makes this process financially doable. If you had to pay retail, just save your money and get (or wait for the 2 seater) the Tamiya kit. To me the most glaring inaccuracy is the intake and the nose shape. There are other inaccuracies and Viper Enforcer did a pretty thorough list here on LSP. The pictures speak for themselves as to what I did and I think it improves the looks 100%. The white plastic is the Hasagawa kit (Red White and Blue FSD boxing) and the gray is Academy's. This particular photo spread covers the F-16I Sufa, but I have done it before to a F-16C boxing as well. Any questions just ask and I will try to explain it in more detail.

 

Sincerely,

Dave

 

 f16Isufa001_zps4c5dcbe6.jpg

f16Isufa004_zps8ab6a64c.jpg

f16Isufa005_zps9b179698.jpg

f16Isufa008_zpse0c0c418.jpg

f16Isufa011_zps1bd25fb6.jpg

f16Isufa010_zpsb3596a15.jpg

f16Isufa009_zps5cb6e099.jpg

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Yup, that's the idea I have planned as well, no more envisioning as you show it done in photos! A little white plastic match scribing and forward canopy fit unnecessary as it will be displayed open. I will just make full trunk intake myself, the CE one I have is split in half so not full seamless. I allocated more than one SUFA as I would like to use more of the Hasegawa body to make a B model in Lizard scheme. 

Edited by phasephantomphixer
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Yup, that's the idea I have planned as well, no more envisioning as you show it done in photos! A little white plastic match scribing and forward canopy fit unnecessary as it will be displayed open. I will just make full trunk intake myself, the CE one I have is split in half so not full seamless. I allocated more than one SUFA as I would like to use more of the Hasegawa body to make a B model in Lizard scheme. 

The Sufa kit contains the hump for a standard B/D and an extra canopy that aren't even used. The guys over on Z5 regularly graft the hump and canopy from a Hasagawa 1/48 scale B/D onto a Tamiya C kit to build a two seater. I don't see why you couldn't do the same to a Hasagawa or even Tamiya single seater in 1/32 to get you to the same place. Leave the canopy raised or shim it if you want it closed and your golden.  :)

 

Dave

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