Daywalker Posted August 29, 2010 Share Posted August 29, 2010 Looking at the aftermarket cockpit sets, gear bays, and other areas with plentiful wiring, I am left in awe at how realistically the wiring molded into the resin parts lays across the surface. No matter how much I try, I cannot seem to get that "look", if you will. Does anyone know how they do that? Is it finely rolled putty? Lead wire? I would love to know how they do that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
csavaglio Posted August 29, 2010 Share Posted August 29, 2010 Solder works really well and will lay however you make it. You can pick it up in all kinds of diameters too. Chris Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kostucha Posted August 30, 2010 Share Posted August 30, 2010 I use a variety of material: -various thicknesses of solder -thinner thicknesses of brass rods -miscelaneous pieces of electricalwire (both insulated, and insulation stripped) by far, solder is the easiest to work with, but do yourself a favor and search for hazards of using solder. Cheers, Mark Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kahunaminor Posted August 30, 2010 Share Posted August 30, 2010 You can also try beading wire which is sold at craft shops. Kev has used wire he stripped out of an old electrical cable in his 262 build in the "A trip to Russville" GB here at LSP. That looks quite good. HTH Regards Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
geedubelyer Posted August 30, 2010 Share Posted August 30, 2010 Hi Frank, I don't know exactly what the artisans who craft the resin sets use but I've found lead wire works very well. Fly fishing stores are a great sourse of lead wire. I've got three different guages that I use along with different thicknesses of copper wire from old electronic devices like speaker wires etc...... (If you heat the copper until it glows then let it cool it's much more pliable.) The lead wire is so poseable. It stays where it is put easily. Simply attach one end with CA and you can run a whole length of pipework/wiring without stopping. It'll conform easily over bulkheads, spars etc with just a poke from a toothpick and a tiny tack of CA. Add connectors from either thin strips of Tamiya tape or metal foil for a very convincing effect. (If I could find solder in thin enough guages I'd use that too. It's just about the same stuff but all of the solder that I've found is too thick for 1/32nd scale.. .) HTH Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daywalker Posted August 31, 2010 Author Share Posted August 31, 2010 Thanks for chiming in guys! I have used solder in the past, and it worked pretty well. I have not tried the fly fishing wire, though I have heard of it. I shall go get myself some and have a go at it. Thanks again! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Barry Posted August 31, 2010 Share Posted August 31, 2010 I use a 29 gauge, "Super Flex" wire made up of 51 individual strands of copper wire. When the insulation is removed you have 51 bare copper strands that are "tiny"! It is made by North West Short Line for the Model RR market but I've found it very useful. It comes in 2' lengths for about $2.00, stk # 10007-9. You should be able to get it from any "Good Model" RR Shop. If not contact Riverdale Station in the Atlanta, GA area at Rivstatinc@aol.com tell Bob what your looking for and Barry said to contact him. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Barry Posted August 31, 2010 Share Posted August 31, 2010 Here it is unpainted in my A-7D Avionics Bay. I also use lead fly fishing wire for coax antenna leads. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daywalker Posted September 1, 2010 Author Share Posted September 1, 2010 Thanks Barry, lovely work on the bay there! I shall look for that wire the next time I am at the LHS. Cool! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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