1/24th scale Spitfire and Mossie sets

[Jeff Herne]

By request, we've worked up 1/24 scale sets for early Spitfires and the new Airfix Mossie. Pricing is forthcoming, I should expect to see them in stock by late this week, early next. Jeff

 

 

 

www.modelerswarehouse.com

[PhilB]

Jeff,

I think you just made a lot of people very happy!!!

I will be buying some of your Luftwaffe codes /letters for a future project which is a 1/32 diorama of a crashed 109 G6 on Malta.

Masks are ideal as I have to do "negative" markings on the fuse where they have faded away to leave the camo showing through the white band.

This may be a bit of an idiot question but what would be the correct size for the underwing serials and the codes on the side of the fuselage.

Phil.

[LSP_Ray]

I have a question.

 

The reason I ask is because my biggest problem with roundel masks, or decals when they are multi-part, is trying to line up the !@#$% circles!

 

I am not sure what your instructions are, but it seems to me the easiest method for getting the best looking roundels would be to paint the red area first, place the center dot, then carefully align the outer mask for the white, spray, remove the red dot mask, place the inner mask for the white, pull off the outer mask for the white, then carefully align the outer mask for the blue.

 

What would be nice to have is some alignment markings on the masks to make this job easier, like at 0, 90, 180 and 270 deg, like on a typical circle template. Or maybe add a mask that has all circles cut on it to use for aligning? Or are all the circles placed in the squares lined up properly so we can use the outer edges for aligning? I would be a bit worried about the latter as vinyl stretches pretty easily and when you are placing it on a curved surface...

[Jeff Herne]

There's a couple of ways to do it, the most accurate is to use the squares. On the C-1 Roundel for example, lay C1-1 down, spray the yellow, then lay C1-2 over the top, spray the blue, C1-3, spray white, C1-4, spray red. Leave the first mask C1-1 in place as a positioning marker, aligning the next mask in sequence with the 1st one done.

 

We use two different types of vinyl, in fact, we're toying with the idea of having both available to customers based on their own personal preferences. The gray translucent vinyl we use is very low tack, works well on gloss surfaces, but has some flexibility to it. The second is the blue vinyl, which is mid-tack, but is much more durable.

 

Jeff

[LSP_Ray]

That makes sense as long as they do stay square. Thanks for the info.

 

Part of my problem I guess is I never follow directions!!! Part of the reason I was asking is I always try to paint lightest colors first, especially working with yellow and red.

 

So if I was doing the 'C' roundel, I would have a white base. Place the '-1' mask, hit the outer rim with yellow, place the '-4' mask, hit the red, remove the '-4' mask, place the '-3' mask simply so I could locate the '-3' inner circle, remove the '-3' mask, and place the '-2' mask and hit the dark blue. It could work...

[Jeff Herne]

That makes sense as long as they do stay square. Thanks for the info.

 

Part of my problem I guess is I never follow directions!!! Part of the reason I was asking is I always try to paint lightest colors first, especially working with yellow and red.

 

So if I was doing the 'C' roundel, I would have a white base. Place the '-1' mask, hit the outer rim with yellow, place the '-4' mask, hit the red, remove the '-4' mask, place the '-3' mask simply so I could locate the '-3' inner circle, remove the '-3' mask, and place the '-2' mask and hit the dark blue. It could work...

 

I'm doing some video tutorials this weekend, one of the masks I'll focus on will be the RAF C1 roundel.

 

Jeff

[LSP_Ray]

Cool! I will check that out.