revell P-51B

[R Hunt]

in comparing the revell "B" to the hasa. "D" and the monogram "D" we all know the nose is wrong , but has anyone looked at the wings? I thought that other than the wing root the wing was the same? did they have the same wing span? to me the revell wing appears do be too thin and too wide(span)? also I noticed a little angle on the horizontal stabs. I know teh "A" model had this to a lesser extent but I didnt think the "B" had any simalar to the"D" plus I thought the "B" had six guns not two and where are the hard points? I am not going to count rivits but I want the general shap of this bird to be ture...any help would be great.

Bob

[ChrisS]

All I know on this one is that all B models were fitted with a total of 4 .50cal guns (2 per wing), and all D models had 6 total (3 per wing).

 

Wish I had more info for you.

[Erwin]

Hi,

I can give you the right dimensions of a P-51 D. The info comes from the book WW-2 Airplanes (olso info for the P-38,B-17,Hellcat,F4U,Spitfire,Mosquito,Lancaster,Bf 109,Fw 190,Ju 87 and Zero )

 

Span:37 ft5/16 in(11,28 m)

wing area:240,06sc.ft. (22,13 sc m. )

 

i hope this info helps you somewhat.

 

Greeting,

[Mark B.]

Also the B/C wing is thinner than the D. The early Mustang was designed with a thin wing (IIRC they called it a critical wing) for improved aerodynamics and when they tried to put 50 calibers in the wing for the B/C they found they had to mount the guns angling over on their sides due to the thinness of the wing. This caused a lot of jamming problems at the breach of the guns, so NA increased the wing thickness of D/K to allow mounting the 50's in an upright position.

 

Mark B.

[D Bellis]

You might want to compare the kit to this fairly accurate drawing:

 

 

In addition to that, check out the Mustang Specifications and Performance Chart.

 

Hope this helps,

D

[D Bellis]

I posted my last post while at work. So, I decided to take that drawing and blow it up to 1/32 on the copier based on the dimentions given on that Specs Chart.

 

I just got home and compared it to a NIB Revell of Germany 1/32 Mustang Mk.III release. Here's the short story of the kit's basic outline faults:

 

Fuselage

1) Kit's nose does not angle down to represent the 1:1 Mustang's down thrust resulting in the spinner being located about 1/8" too high.

2) Kit's rudder outline at the bottom-rear slopes up at a steeper angle resulting in about 1/16" of missing material at the apex of the radius.

3) Kit's spinner is too small in diameter at the rear (base?) by about 1/16", but it is the correct length resulting in an odd "pointy" shape to the entire nose and spinner.

 

Everything else on the kit's fuselage appears to be within 1/32" of the drawing.

 

Wing

1) Tip chord short by 1/16", root chord short by 3/32".

 

Everything else on the kit's wing appears to be within 1/32" of the drawing.

 

Horizontal Stabilizers (AKA "Tailplanes")

1) Root chord short by about 1/8", tip chord short by about 3/32".

2) Span over by about 3/32".

3) Angle at the fuselage attachment joint appears to cause a 'swept forward' installation.

 

I'm sure I didn't catch all of the outline faults. I hope someone that has done a more thorough analisys will chime in with more detailed information.

 

Hope this helps,

D

[R Hunt]

Great drawings! they solved a lot of guestions, tail planes are flat, there are suposed to be wing pylons( hard points) and the wings are suposed to be thin with two .50 guns.....maybe the wings will live to see another day afterall, is there a way I can make those drawings 1/32 and print them?

I planned on useing teh monogram nose( because I have one) and it looks better but the prop is wrong and the shape of the top looks a little off..is it? should I get a hasa. nose? would that be a better starting point? the monogram nose looks like it will go right on with little or no nip and tuck!

as always any help would be super, Bob

[D Bellis]

QUOTE

is there a way I can make those drawings 1/32 and print them?

 

I don't know of an easy, yet accurate way to print them in the scale needed. I usually print drawings to fill the A4 paper and then blow them up on a copier to the size I need.

 

To do this, print the drawing. Measure the wingspan of the top view and divide that into the desired scale span. Convert the answer to percentage. Use that to set up your copier.

 

Example:

Drawing span is 6" and the 1/32 scale P-51 span is 13.875".

Divide 13.875 by 6 to get 2.3125.

Convert that to a percentage by moving the decimal point to the right 2 places to get 231.25%.

Round that off to the nearest percent to get 231%.

 

Do the same for the side view and the length becuse most drawings are slightly off scale between views. The top view of that drawing above had to be blown up by 222%, while the side view had to blown up by 217% to get them both to 1/32 scale size.

 

If you don't have access to a copier with a "Zoom" feature, take the drawing and the desired percentage to any local print shop and they'll blow it up for you. Most shops around here (CT USA) charge less than $1 for 2 copies.

 

Oh yeah, to figure out how to get the scale dimentions, multiply the full size dimentions whole feet by 12, add any addition inches, divide by the scale (32 in this case) for the scale dimention in inches.

 

Example:

P-51B fuselage length is 32' 3".

32 x 12 = 384

384 + 3 = 387

387 divided by 32 = 12.09375

 

QUOTE

I planned on useing teh monogram nose( because I have one) and it looks better but the prop is wrong and the shape of the top looks a little off..is it? should I get a hasa. nose? would that be a better starting point? the monogram nose looks like it will go right on with little or no nip and tuck!

 

Sorry, I can't help with the Monogram nose. But, there is an "In Progress" article here on LSP by Greg Cochran where he is putting a Hasegawa D nose on a Revell B model:

Part 1: http://www.largescaleplanes.com/Works/Greg...e/BaldEagle.htm

Part 2: http://www.largescaleplanes.com/Works/Greg...e/BaldEagle.htm

 

Hope this helps,

D

[R Hunt]

I know about Greg's Bald Eagle, that's what got me going on this, dont know much about copers but went down and had the side blown up , there coper would only go to 200% instead of the 217% needed but I had them od it anyway and it came out to O/A of 13" I'll go back tommorw this time with a ruler and keep playing till I get it at 12".

thanks , Bob #>

[D Bellis]

Bob,

You'll have to do the math to figure out what percentage the drawing you printed will need to be blown up by.

 

217% only applied to the the size that my PC at work printed that drawing to, and was just a reference to the difference between the side and top views. Every PC is different and will print at different sizes.

 

Good luck!

D

[Tony O]

just a thought on your copier enlargement problem...

most scanners of decent quality will produce an image at 100% of the original with little or no degradation of the scale. If you do a scan of a 72nd scale drawing you should be able to get most of a mustang on one sheet.

Presuming that you can then get at a decent lazer photocopier ( one which scans the image and doesn't just 'photograph' it) do incremental enlargements ( i.e. 72 to 48 is %150) until you reach the right scale. I'd advise against going for one giant leap from 72 to 32 or 24 as the optics of the copier will build in innacuracy around the edges, it will also mean that you can position the image so that it doesn't crop your enlargement.

HTH

Tony

[D Bellis]

Tony,

My office machines are not quite state of the art. Our copiers and printers are about 5 years old, our desktop PCs are about a year old. To do what you suggest would require some rather expensive machines that I would venture to say few have easy access to. #>

 

Our Phography Department does have the scanners and plotters that will do exacly what you suggest. But, use of that stuff is limited to just one guy in the whole Museum (and it isn't me #> ).

 

 

I just crop the drawing down in a simple Photo Editer to whatever is needed from it (for that one above, I cropped it down to the bottom 3 views). Then, I used the "fit to page" option to get it as large as possible on a standard A4 sheet and did the rest on the copier. Simple, easy and can be done from any home PC plus a trip to the local print or copy shop.

 

D

[R Hunt]

Okay guys I nailed it! printed out from the page above then went to Kinko's(where NO ONE would even think of giving me ANY HELP AT ALL!) all those A*& H*&%S would do is point to a machine and tell me to stick my card in it!.....JERKS! any how once I figured the damm thing out BY MYSELF! I just kept blowing them up till I got to the right demensions, the main reason I wanted to do this is 1. to see just where the nose is wrong and if the monogram is right( it is) and 2 to make sure I put it on right and dont create another problem with the wrong angle. Its like D bellis said the main problem with the nose I think starts with the spinner being too narrow and they tryed to make the nose fit it so its to narrow in the very front and a little narrow and short( doesnt go down far enough) along the bottom. I still need to get a hase. prop and spinner or find an aftermarket one as the monogram one is for a latter D model, Iam going to use the monogram engine,mount,oil tank and firewall then detail them and try to think of some cool way to pull the nose off so it doesnt look like a toy when its on.

Thanks again, Bob

[D Bellis]

Great! Glad you got done what you needed.

 

QUOTE

I still need to get a hase. prop and spinner or find an aftermarket one as the monogram one is for a latter D model

 

Check with Larry Hawking (A.K.A. "LH" or "maverick728470") for those parts. Maybe post an ad here on the Trader's Board as well.

 

Keep us posted of your progress and good luck!

D