Butler Posted November 9, 2008 Author Share Posted November 9, 2008 The decal sheet I have only allows me to make black or very dark decals, so I've had to make up stencils for the lighter coloured markings. I stuck masking tape to a smooth surface and cut around the letters printed from the computer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Butler Posted November 9, 2008 Author Share Posted November 9, 2008 Once I cut out the letter, I then stuck over some scotch tape to keep the shape from moving about while i transfer it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Butler Posted November 9, 2008 Author Share Posted November 9, 2008 After sticking the mask onto the model, i then carefully peeled off the scotch tape. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Butler Posted November 9, 2008 Author Share Posted November 9, 2008 The next job was to add the 'fish plates' to the rear of the fuselage. I had to remove these when i cladded the part with aluminium. Revell moulds these as quite prominent, regular shapes. In fact they were quite subtle but were irregular shapes so i didn't spend too much time getting them perfect (These plates were added to remedy a problem with tails falling off in certain circumstances. In fact the problem was with something else but these plates remained on all production planes). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Butler Posted November 9, 2008 Author Share Posted November 9, 2008 Here's the real thing. Notice that the plates are not all the same shape! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Butler Posted November 9, 2008 Author Share Posted November 9, 2008 And here's a last pic of the sky band added. Next job is to add all the minor decals and get a coat of matt laquer on it, then I can choose either the rockets, undercarriage or cannon to do next! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bcauchi Posted November 10, 2008 Share Posted November 10, 2008 Great work but I think that the strengthening plates are too pronounced. You need to sand them down and make them thinner. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spads57 Posted November 10, 2008 Share Posted November 10, 2008 Butler, Fantastic work my friend. Impressive project and craftsmanship. Regards, Gregory Jouette Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Butler Posted November 10, 2008 Author Share Posted November 10, 2008 Great work but I think that the strengthening plates are too pronounced. You need to sand them down and make them thinner. Brian your right, when I came back from work they didn't look right so i replaced them with beer can alu instead. Sometimes I find the best way to judge if something is ok or not is to leave it, then look again with fresh eyes and trust that instant judgement! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Butler Posted November 10, 2008 Author Share Posted November 10, 2008 Quick question here for Typhoon experts! The photo below is from one of my reference books (I hope it's ok to post as I guess it's copyright expired by now, but feel free to delete mods). Sorry for the poor reproduction but I don't have a scanner. Anyway - in the photo you can just make out two bits of seatbelt hanging out from the cockpit. One bit hangs down, the other bit goes into a little flap in the fuselage. My decal sheet has a decal for this flap that says 'to open pull down step' Does anyone know the purpose of this flap? I guess the flap opens when the footstep is pulled out going by the decal (the footstep can also be seen in the pic) but for what purpose? The flap is open on most of the stationary planes in my reference photos. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johng Posted November 10, 2008 Share Posted November 10, 2008 Would guess handhold/footstep. It's a long way up to that office. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rotary Posted November 11, 2008 Share Posted November 11, 2008 hi butler,-----if it's the same as the hurri (and i see no reason to suppose it's not) the handhold(port side on hurri) opened when the foot stirrup was pulled down manually---they were mechanically linked to operate together---and the linkage was none to strong. it may be that in the tiffie a strap could be pulled by the pilot to open/close the same set-up. i had no knowledge of this strap----it's not on a hurri---and iv'e not seen it in photos that i can remember so may it have been a one-off? sorry can't be more help, dave. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Edgar Brooks Posted November 11, 2008 Share Posted November 11, 2008 Difficult to tell, but the strap might be from his parachute, and has just happened to fall into the hole. Pilots, who had their own a/c (and that looks like a S/Ldr's pennant, under the windshield,)tended to leave the parachute in the seat, if possible, and I should imagine that it wasn't easy lugging it up to that height. Hawker's had a tendency to have the footstep, and handhold linked; the same thing applied to the Sea Fury, plus the step, under the cockpit rim, was linked to the u/c, opening as it came down. Edgar Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Butler Posted November 11, 2008 Author Share Posted November 11, 2008 Cheers for that guys. Looking at the photo again it seems reasonable that the strap is just resting on the top of the open flap. I've added the flap in the open position to the model Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Butler Posted November 12, 2008 Author Share Posted November 12, 2008 I've done some work on the canopy area today. I've added the rail thingy and rubber canopy seal to the rear of the cockpit, painting the inside parts black (the canopy parts are just resting on the model at the moment). I've also added the flap mentioned in the previous couple of posts, depicted in the open position, and finally fitted the seat into the cockpit. I did this last because I wanted to have a strap hanging out like i've seen in several period photos - this might explain the large amount of paintwork scratches also common in the photos The seat is the kit version, but with a portion of the lower part removed to be more accurate. I also reduced the thickness of the extremely chunky seat from around 2mm to around 0.5mm I added a cushion out of bluetack, with the quilting effect produced with the side of a cocktail-stick! The cushion appears yellow in the photos for some reason, but I promise it's tan in real life! I've also got rid of the over-paint revealed by the flash Here's some pics: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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