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using mekpak


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I've 'aquired' a bottle of slaters mekpak liquid cement.

the question is, what's the best way to apply this stuff, its a lot different from the usual stuff i use.

Anyone have any advice pos/neg ?

TIA

Tony

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Just curious as to what the "usual" stuff is that you've been using. If it hasn't been working for you I was curious as to what this product would do that is different?

The adhesives I use are small in number and I imagine, fairly typical. Hebco Tenax 7R for plastic joining, Zap CA (Gel, thin, gap-filling) for PE and joint strength, Pacer formula 560 (a PVA white glue) for canopies and occasionally a 2-part five minute epoxy. Rarely if ever do I use the clear goopy stuff we used as kids and is abused in some corners of the world.

I guess you could try it on some junker kit or some extra plastic pieces and tell us what it does.

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I was looking for advice on which implement to use to apply this adhesive.

The usual stuff is actually standard liquid cement sold by the games workshop.

MekPak seems to be very thin in consistency, I want to try an alternative, it might or might not be better than the liquid I use.

Any advice is welcome.

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Before I try Mekpak, I'd try Hebco's Tenax 7R. Apply it with at least a 3/4" nylon bristle striping brush and I think you will be more than pleased with the results when used on styrene. And by all means experiment with Mekpak on your model leftovers and let us all know how it works.

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Hi Mike,

spot on. I was worried that it might melt bristles or just gunk up applicators. There's nothing on the bottle to say how to use it.

Its a Brit thing!

cheers for the info.

Tony

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Tony,

Is it a liquid in a bottle like Tenax? If so, I would look for a good drafting pen. i used to use liquid alot, and have the drafting pen with the small wheel adjuster on the top. All one has to do is dip the tip of the pen in, and touch the point to the seam. capillary action does the rest. The great thing is you can add as much as neccessary in one spot, and the pen doesn't allow the liquid to mar the surface. HTH, Erik.

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Tony,

 

If it is MEK by all means test it on a scrap piece first. I got some MEK from the maint shop when I ran out of Tennax and when I used it on an MPM Yak it "blew" a hole in the plastic. Some styrene formulas are more suseptable to it then others. It can be pretty powerful stuff. I've also found that it can in some instances leave a white residue on the plastic. FWIW.

 

Rick

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