t.valdez

Does any edition give a more detailed look at the A-10 two seater?

When you finish will Modeler Illustrated highlight your build "How to turn a pig's ear into a silk purse in ten easy steps"?

Maybe if someone kit bashed an F-100 and a F-104 you'd get a close approximation of an F-102. It works at the large hadron supercollider so maybe it would work just as well, in theory.

I once sat on a SPAD Xlll that I had just finished, I didn't know I had such words in my vocabulary but out they came. I quit modeling for a couple of years, but somewhere in my stash was the old Revell/Takara J1K George. It brought me back.

Scale Master makes a set in various sizes for 48th scale. The larger ones might be a perfect.

The A-10 looks like an A-10 and builds real easy. The cockpit is crap. Right now on eBay there is a Cutting Edge cockpit and exterior resin set for this kit. Jump on it because they don't make this anymore. Forget the weapons that come with the kit and get aftermarket if you can afford it. If you want resin wheels instead of the vinyl tires, Cutting Edge did have a set but it is OOP. In a pinch you could use F-15 wheel set. Use the ammo can as a ballast container (I use lead duck shot) to keep it from being a tail sitter and for the coup de grace Master makes a gun muzzle that's a real killer (pun intended). There is a Verlinden and True Details ( ex Black Box) resin cockpit but I'd avoid them unless they're all you can find.

In a Hasegawa Zero vs Tamiya I think the Hasegawa wins if only because it has the heavier armament package.

So....both floors are wrong as provided in the kit? And neither the corrugated version in pix 55 or the uncorrugated version in subsequent pix are suitable? The horror.

Sopposedly I won a book in the 2015 LSP Xmas raffle. How does one go about claiming the prize?

Good stuff you got going there.

For small stuff use plain aluminum foil. Cut a small square and place it on the lower nose of the kit. Rub the foil till the pattern transfers to the foil. Glue the foil to the thinnest brass or plastic sheet you have. Use a drill bit about 1/3rd the size of the hole you need and center it as best you can (unless you have a centering punch of the right size so use that instead). Drill your holes in the sheet and follow these holes with a drill the exact size of the hole. Use a small scissors to remove the unwanted underlayment and trim to size. Beat to fit and paint to match.

I guess until Roll Models makes more Japanese instruments I have the last remaining extant set in the world.

By the way, it really isn't very hard to paint a display gloss back, orange, green, red etc. in the off position. I usually just use adhesive aluminum foil, trim to shape and color with clear red, green, orange etc. The screen glows. But, if you want to sell a product you have to offer something that is usually beyond what most modelers can accomplish. Color creates interest, and as I'd like to think, before you turn on the jet, you usually flip the on switch to the electrical systems to see what dials, knobs, lights displays come on that you need to give a love tap to to get them to cooperate before you start up the go juice and engines. Before the went defunct, Cuttung Edge had a set of HUD decals in reverse print to show the image projection on the glass as seen by the pilot, in 32 & 48 scale. Down to a precious few.

Roll Models still sells the F-16 placard sets with film displays. They also still sell modern jet instruments and Japanese instrument dials in 1/32 scale. Be aware though that the instrument dials are true scale and most model interiors are slightly under scale, and you also need almost by default the Waldron punch and die set to remove the dials but these instrument faces have yet to be surpassed by silkscreen decals or offset printing technique. German radio faces would be a welcome addition to the Airscale line as there are quite a few models which have visible radio boxes e.g. He-219, Ju-88, Ta-154 (new kit), Ar-234B2N, Me-110, etc.

The HD product is not quite up to the same standard as Archer dry transfers or the older version by Chartpak or Letraset. Glossy surface, flat surface, they refuse to transfer. They will however transfer quite nicely in most cases to clear decal film. Kind of defeats the purpose of dry transfers. I got a set for a P-38 project and learned this the hard way.

Try email addy: aetcvcormac@att.net

I had some custom nose art made for Capt. Walter F. Duke of the 459th FS and have lots of extras leftover. You still have to source you own stencils and stars and bars but other than that you're good to go.

The Geronimo instruction sheet indicates that this A/C did not have the twin dragon tails for the booms. There are a number of pictures available that show this plane in ordinary olive drab over neutral grey. I have a number of P-38 schemes available.

What kind of lens were you going to use for the cockpit lamps? The lamps were telescopic and could vary the size of the beam as needed by the pilot. I've also seen them with red lenses for use at night.

Beware of strangers bearing gifts.

PVA has no deleterious effect on plastic, holds firm, cleans with water. You could have packed enough lead (Pb) dove shot in the engine halves to provide sufficient counter weight for the P-38 as I did, provided you can find it. It was made illegal here in Texas and only steel shot is available. I bought a 5 lb. sack that I hope last me a lifetime. I know, water under the bridges that we burn before we come to them before we saddle our horses that we didn't lock in the barn before they got to the fork in the road.

Aviator oxygen bottle is yaller. Compressed air bottles black. Fire extinguisher bottle red. Beer bottles dark amber. Coke bottles pale green.

What is the outside diameter (OD) for bazooka tubes to scratch build? I know they came with the P-51B and K models (Trumpeter, Dragon, Tamiya) but I don't have these to measure. I will source the tubes from one of the local LHS once I have an idea of the OD.

Well, since the B-25 had a chemical toilet, for the sake of modesty, I'd mask off that area to provide some semblance of privacy for the crew. I'm something of a prude in this regard. I usually provide a relief tube when I build a cockpit, but I tuck it under the seat. I know it's there, but it would not be seen.

Antenna direction is also fickle as to BuAer number. Slanted forward or straight, with or without whip aerial, check your references, and paint everything blue.