Duncan Doenitz

A PR Mk 9. There were 16 type 374 machines which had drop tanks. The photos taken after the dambusters raid were from one of those aircraft.

A Spitfire PR.9 would be the icing on the cake.

I hope this thread is of use, I'm going to do the Troppo version. Any news on new parts in the kit ? Airfix 1:24 Stuka - Page 2 - LSP Discussion - Large Scale Planes

No idea.....but it looks terrific.

I dropped in to my regular UK store and they will be selling the kit at closer to £85. I always airbrush decals wherever possible and use after-market data plates etc. They really give the kit a bit of a lift.

Thank you, I used "Stuka" in my search criteria and my regular site for all things aftermarket describes the stencils without that term. I knew I had seen it somewhere. That's the colour scheme and version sorted out !

Hi all, A re-release of the 1:24 Stuka is nearly here. This was one of the goodies I had my eye on as a kid but could not afford. I hope that the moulds have stood the test of time and that the same plastic is used as per the superb Spitfire. I will almost certainly build the North African variant but am looking for stencils that will allow me to spray the snake emblem along the side of the fuselage. Any ideas ? BIG modelling statement from Vintage Classics Stuka :: Hornby Hobbies (airfix.com)

It will be interesting to see the scheme you have chosen. I have the 1:24 Stuka reissue on my wish list and it will be a North Africa version. Well done on the openings, they look first class.

That set is just decals that are nice little additions to the engine block, coolant tanks, oleo legs, etc. I did stencil the markings on my G-6 which I cut by hand and the results are very nice, particularly the underwing crosses. The problem with Luftwaffe aircraft is trying to find the correct shades of everything. I was recommended SMS lacquer PL189 for RLM76 Lichtblau. It looks pale in the bottle but works very well on 1:24 (never spray over acrylic !). I searched for mottle stencils but at this scale, the hard edge just doesn't work. Freehand gives a better result. Enjoy !

I am putting the finishing touches to a Trumpeter 109 and have used some of these little beauties on the engine block and cockpit side walls. Aims Aircraft decals - AIMS24D002 | Hannants

Looking fantastic (or should that be braw or gallus ?). I'm finishing off the trumpeter 109-G and thankfully it will be wheels down. Wheels up would require some surgery. Hopefully Airfix's next 1:24 will be a 109 but I would settle for a P51-D.

Thanks for the tips. The Airfix 1:72 Vulcan is next in the queue and I have AK RC 286/289 for the upper surface and 222 for underneath. I'll get some of their thinners for the very best results. What mix ratio ? 60:40 thinner to paint ?

Another thing to check is the position of the fuselage roundel and the partial letter K if you are painting fuselage lower half invasion stripes. I and a "professional modeller" both think that the gap between the roundel and the partial K is too large on the actual model. I followed the instructions and used a micrometer to get the stripe dimensions exactly as described but fitting the K decal gives a strange looking result. You will be using something else for your version but it's one to watch. I have checked my roundel position with a range of photos and it's accurate. I suspect the stripes should be closer to 10mm, perhaps 9.5mm. Hope this helps.

There are a couple of omissions in the instructions. The flare rack is on the sprue but is not in the instructions. I have seen photos of this fitted on a IXc so I drilled out the recesses and installed it. Build steps 234 and 235 do not show the transparent disc being installed horizontally in the reflector gunsight. I presume you are drilling out the holes in the bulkheads. Do the same on coolant header tank bracket K13 and spinner plate L36 The engine pipework K74 and K75 WILL slot through the engine bearers but be prepared to swear a bit. Aftermarket exhaust stubs are a good idea as are making your own roundel / pennant masks and spraying them. The decals are good but spraying what you can is better. Enjoy !

Interpol (Interplod) are hiding from us ! It's a Glasgow thing

That's on a need to know basis

Mr Monthebiff (an excellent name for those of us in the know). I am currently building the Trumpeter 1:24 BF 109G and agree that the decals are pretty poor. Everything will be stencilled with the small stuff replaced with aftermarket alternatives. I suggest that you don't even bother trying to use them.

Well well well, at such a low price, I will have to give this a go using the "stand-off" idea. In short, I'll try holding the mask off the model and airbrush from a distance to get a nice feathered effect. (edited to add that this was suggested back up the page, I didn't read the post carefully but thought the same). Mr Treker sir, it's as cheap as chips (in the UK anyway, around 6 bucks in your money) so give it a go. Ingenuity and cunning can win over skill ! Who knows, it may be a winner. Marianne Design A5 Mask Stencil - Camouflage PS8090 | Buddly Crafts

Hey guys, I need to use masks as my airbrushing skills are not up to scratch. This is my second kit after a 45 year gap so I'm on the learning curve. I'm not sure I agree with Treker in that anyone is "pressing their perfection" as given a choice, I would prefer a feathered edge. I was looking for a photo-etch mask that could be held close to the model but the only 1/24 on the market seems to be out of stock. I am wondering if the Top Notch can be fixed a small distance above the model so the edge can be softened so perhaps there is a way to get this where my limited skills are not a factor. If not then perhaps a mist coat of several different shades of grey with the mask moved and rotated could provide something interesting. Until now, I had no idea that the Luftwaffe had such a random and wide ranging approach as much of it was done in the field with whatever was available. If at the end of the day, I am happy with the results then "job done". The engine is looking rather nice due to some after-market decals, engine washes and dry brushing. Mr Treker Sir, I hope the above suggestion using a "stand-off" stencil works for me as it just came into my head. You may also want to give it a go and who knows, it may just work. Thanks also for sharing some of your personal circumstances. I don't have much insight into the world of autism however I applaud you sharing it with us. So far, I have found everyone to be extremely generous with their time and advice, including your good self. My first kit in a very long time was the Airfix 1:24 Spitfire IXc. My research and simple kit "corrections" took ages and I am delighted with the results. I cut my own stencils for all markings other than numbers and letters and the painted roundels are simply fantastic. The end result is far from competition standard however my efforts showed signs of OCD. I think most of us who choose to do this hobby often show traits that others find curious and that includes my good lady. She commented that if I can build such a detailed model then I can be trusted to do electrical work in our house. Perhaps that was not such a smart move on my behalf ! Anyway, the good news is that my next kit is the terrific 1:72 Airfix Vulcan so I can get away with hard edges. It's a large model so won't qualify for much discussion here. The only result that counts is if YOU are delighted. That's where it starts and ends. all the best Duncan Doenitz (not my real name, I thought it was witty)

A quick update, the TopNotch masks have arrived and they look just the job !

The splinter on the upper wing and fuselage top is easy enough but the mottle on the fuselage side over RLM76 light blue should look very nice. I have the Top-Notch on order but will try to get a photo etch mask first and try the technique on a spare fuselage. Trumpeter include a perspex fuselage in their 1:24 kits (who knows why, there's nothing worth showing off) so that has been primed and sprayed with SMS Lichtblau. It looks too pale in the bottle but when on a model, it has just enough blue to look about right. I have a set of insignia masks but making my own from a sheet of Tamiya mask paper is very therapeutic. I did my own roundel masks on the Airfix 1:24 Spitfire and was delighted with the results. Lots of work with a compass cutter but the airbrush results are well worth it. It took about 10 attempts to get a perfect cut but perseverance wins.

Brilliant, just what I need. My error was to search for "mottling" and not "mottle". Thank you !

Here's the video where I picked up my mate's tip. It's a fascinating build with lots of useful stuff that applies regardless of scale. See around the 1:00 mark

Hi all, Does anyone know where I can buy (i.e. they are in-stock) a 1:24 Luftwaffe mottle mask ? I could use a 1:32 as the variations in mottling are extensive due to the paint often being applied in the field. My airbrushing skills are not quite up to doing it freehand. thanks Duncan Doenitz

Sorry, just saw this. Do it exactly as described and it works a treat. Cross cut the end and use it like an ink pen nib. it's as simple as that. I also use this for applying spots of glue for seatbelts etc.