Kahunaminor

Mate, I honestly have no idea if the port side is the same. I can only assume at this time (and that can be dangerous) that it would be so. I will have a look and see if I can confirm or deny it from Jerry's books. I know what you mean about getting it right and I fully concur, just sometimes, and this is purely a personal observation, sometimes the illusion is sufficient to enable the mind to see what we intend to impart. I have Montex masks sitting there as well and have held off using them but you make it look so easy I may have to take a leap of faith!

I regret that I will not be finished this build in time for the cutoff on Monday. Even if I were to attempt to pull a couple of Russ like "allnighters' I would fall short. Events have conspired against me and I am disappointed that I will not complete the task at hand. I will continue to plod along and finish this in the near future. To all you other GB members that finished and honoured Russ in this way a great job to you all. To all those that encouraged me with positive coments I thank you and hope to finish up a better modeller. Regards

Nick forgive me for saying but doesn't the diagram you have shown explain where the wire goes? It would appear to pivot just inboard of the MLG leg and run across the wheelbay to a point inboard. If I am stating the bleeding obvious let me know!! But please keep the updates coming! Regards

Nick that is looking sooo good! The work in the canopy wiring looks absolutely spot on. DO NOT let yourself get rushed into finishing. I find that is when I make the mistakes!!! Keep going. Regards

Hello all, Here is my 1/4 scale Eduard Bf110 Instrument Panel from the 1/48 Eduard Bf110 Royal Class kit. It was built as a "quick" diversion whilst I am awaiting some parts for another build. Whilst it is a relatively easy build, some care should be taken to ensure the clear plastic lenses are prepared properly. I actually broke one and had to replace it with clear acetate. I won't say which one as I think I did an okay job. I used Gator glue to fix most of the parts, only resorting to CA on the curved panels on the left with the larger toggles (if I only jnew what it was for!)I also had one of the screws taken by the carpet monster as a sacrifice. The stand is a miniature easel I found in a $2 shop here at home. I am undecided as to apply some very light weathering, maybe just some Promodeller wash and some light wear marks on the screws. Thanks for looking

Thank you for the kind words. The P-40/Kittyhawk IV is probably my favourite as well. I should add the cockpits and extras are due to a lot of Eduard P/E and help in the form of advise and tips from forum members here and elsewhere Regards

Very nice Kev. If I shut my eyes and concentrate I can see my one trip on a V Jet as a kid to Fiji...many moons ago!!! Regards

Thanks Radu, I have ordered a set and await them eagerly. Regards,

Here are some of my 1/48 scale builds. All have been seen before on other forums but I thought this new place seemed appropriate. Hasegawa Kittyhawk Mk IV "Cleopatra III" Hasegawa Spitfire Vb: Hasegawa A6M5 Zero: Thanks for looking.

Nick, She is coming along well. For the wheel wells I normally do the same as John but use damp tissue paper to fill the area. I tear a small strip off the tissue, dip it and then squeeze the majority of the water out and work to fill in the area, building up layers of tissue to fill the area as needed or not as the case may be. I find that using damp will allow you mold it slightly around shapes and it will even adhere to walls and edges. Paint away and then carefully remove piece by piece. Tempting as using large pieces can be it should be avoided as they can damage detail when being removed or dry and be a bugger to extract! Please keep up the good work and the postings! Regards

Tudor, That's a winner in my eyes. Congratulations on a fine build and impressive detail work. Regards

Kev, Every time I think about getting my 262 out again, I see one of your fabulous updates and I get 262 envy!! and back under the bench it goes! That is just cracking along. Congratulations and please keep up the good work!! Regards

Hi guys, IIRC correctly the tail wheel can be disengaged to "freewheel" so the a/c could be moved about by ground crew. I think this involved the pilot pulling the stick all the way to the rear which unlocked the tailwheel. The control surfaces would naturally move but once the wheel was unlocked they and the stick could be returned to normal. It was then free to move until locked again somehow (posibly the same method?). I cannot recall where I read it (possibly Jerry's books) but I recall reading it somewhere. I have my tail wheel turned to provide a little interest. Regards

Nick, Try here: http://www.bookdepository.co.uk/search?sea...3E%3C%2FSPAN%3E and see if you get any luck. It is a very broad search but there are quite a few Kagero books there. Good luck. Kent

Mate, That rescribing work is great! One of the (many) aspects of our hobby I am yet to become comfortable with! I would appreciate the tell all expose but if there is too much invovled then let it pass. Regards

Brian, It is my understanding (which I may have gotten confused) that it would very much depend on which model P-40 you were looking to build. The early E's (Kittyhawk 1/1A etc) which only had the unfavourable US two point belt fitted as standard had these replaced with the Sutton harnesses. Radu's "QK" harness would be okay for this. I believe the later M's and N's (Kittyhawk III and IV) as a general rule retained the US harness as it had been altered to a four point harness and thus were acceptable to the powers that be and the pilots. I might suggest you ask over at Aussie Modeller and see if Peter Malone can advise you further. HTH Regards

Nick, You are far more patient with the area than I was. I just sort of squared the lip off with a small file and brute forced it with clamps and CA to get mine to a "reasonable" level. I recall now that I used the kit storage cover and shaped it to "almost" fit. It was my first resin pit though. I have the EE pit for my next attempt! The remainder is looking superb and the Aires wheel bays are now becoming a consideration for my next a/c (I see a set of 190A on Ebay for a fair price at the moment). The one thging that annoys me is the fact Aires "assume" you know how to install their stuff. I have a 1/48 F4U-1A cockpit at the moment that tells me bugger all about how to fit it!!! Stay the course and keep the updates coming

Glad I was able to help. You will also notice the different pitot tube on the two a/c. Regards, Kent

Thierry, Try the Australian War Memorial website: http://www.awm.gov.au/ and see if they have some photos. Regards, Kent

Thierry, In relation to question 2 There were very few P-40D's made and I recall reading that whilst only four guns were fitted, the hardware and mounting points for all six were still present (although the guns themselves were absent). This may appear to make six guns but there were only four. I think this was in the Squadron P-40 walkaround or in action ( I don't have them to hand). I also think that they may have been requipped with the extra two guns at the request of the pilots, particularly Duke I think, as well. I am sure somebody who has more knowledge will be along shortly. You might also try over at Aussie Modeller http://www.aussiemodeller.com/pages/discus...roup/forum.html as a few of the guys, Peter Malone and Gary Byk for example over there specialise in Desert P-40's. You might also try here: http://www.p40warhawk.com/index.htm HTH Regards

Nicely done Nick. I like the common sense approach you are using to problem solve. The harness looks the bees knees. Just a reminder to paint the lever in the LH lower instrument panel before you finish...I would probably be forgetting something like that in all the excitment of installation and it is a pain Keep the good work coming Regards

You can also try beading wire which is sold at craft shops. Kev has used wire he stripped out of an old electrical cable in his 262 build in the "A trip to Russville" GB here at LSP. That looks quite good. HTH Regards

Noice...real noice... Keep up the great work Regards

Hi Kev, It took a Gold which is modestly visible in the last photo Your 262 looks cracking by the way. Well done!

Thanks for the kind words. Yeah that green does catch the eye! This was the first time I used resin parts on a build. They were not "drop in" but with a little bit of care with the reading the instructions, careful sanding and a lot of dry fitting it wasn't that difficult. Nick Mayhew has a great 190 build of the same kit with the MDC set at the moment. He has presented it in a much better format than I have. The Aires set worked well and only required some thought and a bit of care. The painting went well too. I spent the majority of the last night painting and just left a bit of time in between for drying time (and lots of coffee). From memory the last coat of Dullcote went on about 0600 and then a couple of hours for that to set up and the final additions went on. I must admit it is a bit of a blur Thanks for looking.