LSP_Ray

Little to none. There are some 1/48th decals, there are some generic unit and national markings in 1/32nd, plus there are availabel markings for 1/32 A-4 or Phantom and some other more modern a/c. I think it is going to be a bits and pieces afair plus some self-made stuff. There was a Microscale/Superscale set at one time but it is highly rare. One on eBay went for $90. I have a Revell Mirage + CAM Kfir conversion myself and someday am going to have to work up the guts to try that one. Its going to be some work that's for sure.

LOL! You guys are great! Actually, made perfect sense to me, Photoshop or other good graphic program lets you enter color by Pantone or CYMK numbers, lets you print out the color you want!

I think Craftworks still offers a few detailing parts for the Beau.

Jerry, you are referring to the centerline cannon aren't you? Not the MG's under the top cowl piece? Although, those aren't MG151's are they - I think they were 12.7mm's - so maybe I'm all confused myself. Wouldn't be the first time...

Yellow 10, being a D-13, did not have the MG-151's fitted. That is why the lower wing only has the single spent casing chute for the centerline cannon. I however have no clue as to what it looked like under the cowl without the MG151's.

Wingnut International!! That is where I got mine!

There is a guide you can buy online somewhere for casting. I will try and remember where I found it. Has some good guides for casting if you want to really get into it.

I consider stencils one of those "artists license" type affairs with the modeler applying stencils as he sees fit to produce a model in the way he likes. Most combat aircraft lost stencils as it got used, abused, and repaired and touched up. I suggest offering a rather generic, more common, set of stencils and where they would go and let the modleler decide but not go overboard with offering every possible factory stencil.

One color stencils are a piece of cake on an ALPS. If production will be low, I could run them off mine, or Mike Grant will do it on his. Whoever does it, make sure your artwork is in vector format!!!! And separate layers for white and black, or each color!

Tony: What do you mean no use for an EE Lightning walk-around??? I have a couple of those kits myself and I can see I will need all the help I can get! Is it possible to get a copy of the pics for myself???

Thanks for the info, Vernon. I am getting the idea the Adobe programs are becoming the industry standard. If I get Illustrator, I will probably get Photoshop to go with it.

Just for my curiosity, what program is Vernon doing the artwork on? I would sure like my artwork to be compatible for if I decide to 'donate' my artwork for others. I am using Micrografx Designer right now as I am most familiar with it but have been toying withs switching to Adobe Illustrator.

I have found Humbrol Matte to be a great flat coat myself, if you like oil-based stuff.

That's just sick! Great work, Sazo! I should get my butt in gear on those bang seat decals - looks like you could use some on that super-detailed seat!

I think it has to do with the underdog syndrome. That said, I have 4 Me-109's and 3 - 190's, but I also have 3 Hunters and 3 Tornados (and 2 Lightnings) also! I think I am doing my part...

Squadron now lists this item for pre-orders! My heart skipped a beat when they showed the price at $10.99, but further reading reveals this is just a placeholder price until they get the real price from Revell. They do show boxart though! Squadron He-162 Page

Wow! Can't wait to see this one done up!

Looking good Chris! What is a G-6Y variant anyway? BTW, here is what I just got in my Aeromaster/Eagle Strike newsletter: "Those of you who bought the Trumpeter 1/24 BF109 Kit (the first two 109G-6, early and late version), will have nine more schemes to choose from. Some Aces are featured and some Home Defense Aircraft. These decals are designed to provide a replacement for a couple of German words that were misspelled." They are also going to release a 1/32 version of their Marseille sheet!

Other Future notes... I had a bad experience once. Future will react to some of the decal glues and especially decal solvents: turns white! I fixed it by using alcohol to clean the Future off, then re-applying in that area. Some others have had the same problem and found that another coat of Future will fix it. Because of this, many are recommending using Testors Metalizer Sealer as the best pre-coat for decals. Haven't tried it yet, but will on my next model. Here is the best Future FAQ website I have found yet: http://www.swannysmodels.com/TheCompleteFuture.html .

The pics in the D&S book are like that, except there is a metal frame around the edges of the bulletproof glass.

According to Detail & Scale P-40 Vol. 1, there is no framework on the front of the canopy. The framework you see in photos is because of the frame just inside the canopy for the armored glass. This is a flat panel with frame all around. A good set of photos of this setup is on page 68 of the D&S book. Note that on later models, the framework was added.

I can only give you hearsay, but I read on Hyperscale a post from someone who was using the Verlinden set in a Trumpeter with no problems, just slight modification. However, I have not seen anyone's built up review with it, or even a progress shot yet. I have one of the Verlinden sets myself, but haven't unburied it yet to check it. I agree, it is a beautiful set, so I hope it fits!!

Oh, forgot. Here is my "10 steps to better decals:" 10 Steps to Better Decals Decaling is one of the most important steps in modeling. It can make or break a finish. A good decaling job looks like you painted them on. A bad job looks like a bunch of stickers with air bubbles under them. Here are some steps you can take to produce a great finished model. 1.) Scan a copy of your decals. If you have a scanner, or at least access to one, it is always a good idea to scan the decal sheet before cutting it up. This way if you ruin a decal you can either print a new one on decal film with an ALPS printer or inkjet printer on inkjet decal paper, or as a last resort you can create mask from the artwork or at least have a record of what you need. 2.) Apply a good gloss coat to your model. A gloss coat is vital to reduce silvering. Flat paints have all kinds of microscopic ridges that will hold tiny bubbles of air under your decals. It is these bubbles that cause the silvering effect. It doesn’t really matter what you use for a gloss coat, it can be Future, Modelmaster Metalizer Sealer, or any of the other gloss coats out there – or you can start with a gloss color coat in which case you won’t need the extra step. Try some different methods and see what works best for you. 3.) Take a decal or two from your decal sheet of which you won’t need and apply them to the scrap piece of model that you have been using as a test base for your finishes . You have been trying samples of your finish on a piece of scrap haven’t you? By trying an extra decal or two on a piece of scrap we can see if there is any problems with the decals themselves, as well as test decal solvents on them. If the decal breaks up, then you might want to try applying a coat of liquid decal film over them. Also you will want to note how easily the decals come off the backing paper and if the decals want to ‘grab’ the model, giving you little time to position them. 4.) Test the sample decals with the type of setting solution you want to use. There are several decal solutions out there. Solvaset, Microsol & Microset, Mr. Decal Softener, etc. Some are stronger than others and different decals react differently to different solutions. For instance, Japanese decals such as those from Tamiya and Hasegawa seem to react better to Mr. Decal Softener. Solvaset is sometimes too strong for a decal, causing it to wrinkle up or curl into a ball and never recovering. You can also dilute solutions with water if they seem too strong. 5.) Remove excess clear decal film from your decals. Some decals have large clear areas. This is just asking for trouble as it is usually the clear areas that show silvering effects the worst. The larger the clear area the easier it is to trap air. Master Modelers working on aircraft with natural metal finishes have been known to meticulously cut all the clear film away from decals as it is so very hard to hide decal film on NMF finishes. 6.) Apply a setting solution, or at least a drop of water on the model where you want the decal to sit. This liquid will make it easier to position the decal without it sticking to the model before you want it to. It also helps reduce silvering by keeping air out from under the decal. Once the decal is on the model, position the decal where it is to go and blot the water away with a small sponge or soft cloth or soft brush. Gently press down on the decal removing all water – and any air – from under the decal. 7.) Once the decal is set and all excess water is gone, apply a bit of decal solvent over the decal. The solvent will help the decal soften and stretch to configure itself to every contour and detail of the model. (Note if you are placing a decal on a flat area with no bumps or dips, you may not need a solvent.) Now let the decal dry naturally. NATURALLY! The decal solvent can soften the decal where touching it at this point will damage the decal. If you plan your decaling right, you can place several decals in a session without having to touch the ones already done. Don’t be surprised if it takes a few sessions to finish a model. If you note any air under the decal after this step, lightly prick the decal with a point of an Xacto knife and apply another drop of solvent. This should help pull any air out from under the decal. 8.) After the decals are all dry – at least 24 hours later – a soft brush with a little water will clean any excess solvent or decal glue off the model. 9.) Once the model has dried again, coat the model with another coat of gloss to seal in the decals. 10.) Admire your work!

Chris, inkjets are a mixed bag! I used Micro-Mark's inkjet paper in my Epson and the ink just beaded - was a total waste of time. In my HP Photosmart printer however, they printed beautifully! As previously mentioned, the ink is quite translucent so you need white under it for anything but very dark colors. As an option, I have an ALPS printer if you want to send me the artwork and I will see how well it will work. Light blues and greys are a real *****, though I had pretty good results using the HP printer for those shades. Also, I have some 1/24th scale resin wheels for the Trumpeter 109's if you want to try a set. They are from France. I ordered a 1/32nd D.520 cockpit, and got 1/24th 109 wheels instead.:-(

There are currently two sets of decals now available I know of, one from Cutting Edge and the other from Eagle Strike: Cutting Edge Wildcat Decal Sheet Eagle Strike Wildcat Decals There is also an old Microscale set, long out of print. If you are not going to use the kit decals, I would definitely be interested in Marion Carl's "Black 13." every other decal manufacturer persists in doing "White 2" as Carl's - a plane he never flew! I have the Eagle Strike set, and (I think) the old Microscale set and would be willing to give you your pick of the markings in trade for the Carl markings. As for books, there is the aforementioned D&S volume, as well as Squadron-Signal's Wildcat in Action and a Wildcat Walkaround that has some good engine shots.