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RLWP

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Everything posted by RLWP

  1. Thanks, it was ages ago. I may put up a thread, I don't want my stuff to get in the way of this build - there's stuff about paint going on here I can learn from Richard
  2. I suspect I have used both, I'm pretty sure some Tom's Modelworks stuff went in as well Richard
  3. The Eduard etch is good - only I think it based on a preserved aeroplane. Much of the cockpit stuff doesn't match WWI Richard
  4. Longeron - that's the word I was looking for Richard
  5. The red hatch looks like it would be hinged on a structural member (stringer?), which makes sense. The as-drawn hatch would pass through the structural member, which seems unlikely You do know the definitive answer to this will only come after you have made the hatch... Richard
  6. To me, that pattern has always looked like someone putting on thin paint with a very big brush as quickly as possible. Imagine standing to the side of the tail and brushing quickly. You are as likely to get the streaks at an angle as straight up and down Richard
  7. There are etched parts for the jacket, gunsight and muzzle in the Part kit 32030, also Tom's Modelworks do an etch for complete guns: http://www.tomsmodelworks.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=22_30&products_id=227 Lots of mix and match possibilities there Richard
  8. Yes - the Brassin ones. These are for an Academy and a Hobby Craft kit If you are in to this kind of thing, the Brassin guns have Constantinesco trigger motors. My Camels need Sopwith-Kauper synchronisation gear Alternatively, they are a pretty nice set of resin parts with some good etch to suit. Richard
  9. I have just bought some of the Eduard ones, I can post some pictures if you want Richard
  10. For the truly obsessed RAf flat rigging wires in four different widths: http://www.radubstore.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=2_68&products_id=321 and terminals: http://www.radubstore.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=2_68&products_id=328 Also turnbuckles: http://www.radubstore.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=2_68&products_id=403 I have some of this stuff that I bought ages ago for a (stalled) WNW Pup, I haven't used it yet Richard
  11. There is a supplier of flat rigging wire, I have some. I can't remember where I got it from Richard
  12. MacGyver is a prince amongst bodgers, second to the A-Team perhaps Richard
  13. Ahhh, now. Traditionally, a bodger made legs for chairs. They would go out into the woods with a few hand tools, make everything they needed from the materials to hand (trees) including a pole lathe. They would then run up as many chair legs as they could sell, come home and sell them Nowadays boding comes in two types. The type I like the least involves mending things with duct tape, bits of wire ad other flimsy stuff. On the other hand, a really good quick fix can be a very admirable bodge What a bodger does when modelling is, um, cutting, scraping, sticking, hacking about, using the wrong bits... That kind of stuff Richard Would you like a hankie?
  14. Old cars here have to have an annual test, I took that Beetle to be tested. While it was up on the ramps, I mentioned to the tester that I hated the car. He looked at me a bit confused. I said it wasn't my car, he said 'right - we hate them too' and then gave me a list of his horror stories with them Still, I can't complain - I've got a 1972 MG How's your model build going? Richard
  15. I don't mind the looks, they are just horrible to work on. My sister had one once, and sorting out the hundred and one faults to get the de misting to work was - challenging. Replacing half a floor wasn't a lot of fun either Fortunately, she sold it. These latest jobs are paid work Richard
  16. Last year, I made some brackets to fit Porsche brake calipers to a split screen VW. I have a pair of Porsche track rod ends and rack arms to shorten for a Beetle conversion to do Old VWs are horrible things... Richard
  17. It's always the same. I share a picture, then get dissatisfied with what I have done The Clerget looked so much better, so I replaced the pushrods on the Gnome: Much better, and probably not far off scale size. That'll do I fitted the 'spark plugs' from the Part etch to the Clerget: Incidentally, I turned up a new cam box for the Clerget so i could get the inlet and exhaust pushrods staggered. I used a bit of scrap sprue from one of the kits Richard MORE: Cruel, cruel close ups - one of the pushrods needs fixing...
  18. Oh no!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! A WWI aeroplane colour discussion. Look away, Chris, follow the kit instructions, find a scheme you like and work to that Whatever you do, don't start thinking about the effects of panchromatic film - this way madness lies It's one of the many causes of AMS, and can lead to abandoned models - trust me, I know from bitter experience Richard
  19. Anything to look out for... It builds nicely, and from what I have seen of your work you'll make a lovely model you will be very satisfied with As an incurable AMS sufferer, I bodged an awful lot of it about to get what I wanted. This is not necessary for the enjoyment of this hobby Richard
  20. CDL. Clear Doped Linen If you are of that age and inclination, Warhammer Bleached Bone Richard
  21. I took a coarse file to the wings, followed by some 400 grit wet and dry. The new tapes are strips of sticky label sprayed with Klear Richard
  22. That's nice work. You'll find the Roden DR.1 a pretty nice kit, and a whole generation better too Richard
  23. This is the frame, tack soldered together. It needs a bit of cleaning up to remove traces of flux - I'm going to do that all in one go as I'm afraid of accidentally folding it all into a blob! Richard
  24. There will be one out there, somewhere... Richard
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