Roy vd M.

Missed this build, but will follow from now on! It looks great thus far. It's a LOT of AM stuff! But a plane this beautiful deserves it I think.

LOL@ "Even I"

This is the bomb bay in approximate position: So there is plenty of room for the wing spars! Thank you Eduard... As has been pointed out in other threads, Revell's bomb bay is (incorrectly) much longer and thicker. Now I have a better view on what I'd like the diorama to look like. I hope you will comment on it and take the trouble to answer my hereunder questions, as those comments will surely help me in choosing my path... ... The diorama will be part of a hangar in which the He 111 is positioned. There will be a workshop in the neighboring part of the hangar. So much I already knew. My NEW idea is derived from the perception that VERY little is to be seen of the bomb bay room through the windows. This idea combined with the question why the Heinkel would be in the hangar next to the workshop led me to the result that this plane suffered bullet damage. One of the allied planes managed to fire one line of bullets all the way from the fuel tank to the bomb bay. The pilot, seeing his fuel gauge drop, had to land at the nearest German airfield while he still could. In the diorama we see the Heinkel in the hangar, mobile stairs next to it, one technician just in the process of bolting tight the replaced panel above the fuel tank (the fuel tank itself already having been repaired) and another technician having detached the damaged fuselage panel above the bomb bay. Both the bulleted panel and its replacement are seen resting against the mobile stairs. Through the removed panel hole there is a clear sight of all bomb bay and bulkhead detail. My questions: 1) What do you think of this idea? 2) Do you think it's (possibly) realistic? 3) Would all bombs be unloaded after such emergency landing? Or would it be thinkable that half of the bombs (in the far end bomb bay) would remain in place, so that the plane could leave again as fast as possible after reparation, possibly that same day? (It would be nicest of course to show one part of the bomb bay with bombs in place, the other part without). 4) Do you have any other tips in this respect? Much looking forward to your answers!

So... the bulkhead issue. I thought Mr Surfacer had hardened and would not shrink anymore. I was wrong. So I have applied again and after a day it had shrinked some more. Waiting another day, I added another layer and now it seems better. Next will be careful sanding. I decided I'll put in as much detail as I can. I think this bulkhead is an important part, bearing a lot of detail on both sides. Furthermore I have come aware that several decisions about the rest of the interior have to be made taking this bulkhead as basis. Will I try to recreate the bomb emergency release system? The two sliding doors? The chain for the release system? Different widths of the bulkhead structures? Yes to all of those. One thing that had to be done was file off the sides of the Eduard fuse panel. They were a bit too long and there was a border which is not present at the original. I am VERY happy with Eduard's depiction of the original, extremely neat and precise. Having filed off the sides, it fits perfectly. Size is very satisfactory. One challenge will be to cover the RLM66 on this photoetch part with RLM02. The last two days I spent sorting out the pictures of the bulkhead (both sides + 1st type 111 for the doors; they seem to be of the same type as later 111s). What I did was: 1) Create 3 maps: front of bulkhead, back of bulkhead, back of bulkhead 111E. 2) Collect all online pictures I had saved and spread them among those maps. 3) Make pictures of the Squadron and Aero Detail books, upload them to my computer and also organize them. 4) Make printscreens from the pictures I found in PDF manuals and organize them. 5) Make a series of screenshots of the youtube video and organize them. 6) Per each of the 3 maps, rename each picture from "01" to "99", starting with overview pics, then pictures of the upper left of the bulkhead and ending with pictures of the upper right of the bulkhead. For example, a picture from the doorway detail exactly in the middle, got the number "50". A picture of the fuse panel got named "85". A picture of the left door at the back of the 111E was named "28". This way, I can browse easily through all reference material getting detail pictures 'from left to right'. This solves the problem of having to work with, in total 36 pictures coming from 5 sources (which were of course not sorted in any logical order). Having done this, it was time to make a couple of drawings of the main structure elements that have to be dealt with as regards the bulkhead. Very happy to finally be out of the dark. Only after studying many pics does it become really clear how the structure (especially of the doorway threshold) was made. Mainly the last picture is important for the construction. The bulkhead itself is quite thin (so the plastic needs sanding from both sides) and the doorway's front threshold contains a gap (!). The doorway has U-shaped (vertical) beams as sides. These vertical U-beams border a horizontal U-beam along which the two sliding doors run. That horizontal U-beam is positioned on the front wing spar. To see how realistically wide I could make the wing spar (which in reality is quite wide) I decided to prepare one of the bomb containing structures. Eduard's is really very nice with detail I thought I'd have to make myself. While folding (using a Hold and Fold from The Small Shop... great stuff) I made two mistakes. Although my version of the H&F is quite long, it appears that the holes of the two fasteners are wider than the two black knobs suggest. So two very ugly semi-circles appeared in raised relief in the structure's front and back. Oh no! Trying to bend back in shape, trying to roll with a round weight on it trying to put it back into position made it ugly. But I managed to fix it and I am actually very happy that finally I found something out myself that really works, rather than learning everything from others... this is what it looked like after my best attempt to flatten it back: Solution: take a Proxxon (or dremel) plus small tubular grinder and start to drill the piece back into form. This works well by using a combination of rolling and hitting movements. The following happens: After sanding 320 / 600: No torque or widening of the part which I feared for a bit, and no problem as regards thickness. Finally, the rivets are still visible for those who will want to keep them like that. I will apply raised rivets on the inside as well as the outside of the bomb bay so it wouldn't have been a problem anyway. The other mistake I made was that after bending the top stuff I bent it back. Very tiny connectors... so it broke off almost immediately! Wow I hadn't expected that. No problem, that makes painting the inside of the bomb bay a lot easier. Time spent building, planning, drawing: 45H. Studying: 16H.

Looks nice! Finish line is becoming in sight I think?

That's a coincidence, seeing you work on that fancy woodwork. My Heinkel is going to get a pair of wooden doors behind the first bulkhead so I'll probably use your info

Peter, guess you're wrong about being a rookie next to me. I would be the rookie, I just try to imitate what I see and struggling to do so. It will take me years to finish this plane. If I take a look at your incredible builds I'll still have to learn a LOT. If I see other people's reports of having finished 6 planes a year, all looking astonishing, it makes me realize as well that I'll have to learn a LOT. Just one example of your art: http://forum.largescaleplanes.com/index.php?showtopic=35205&p=334443 But I do appreciate your compliment. As a Dutch guy 'typical mentality: tell me something and I'll give you an honest reaction in your face straight away' on this forum I do not only learn about modelling but just as much about modesty.

... I noticed that the curves at the top of the doorway were too small. Busy trying to find out whether to use the photoetch fuse panel or whatever it is. Positioning and comparing it to pics.. something doesn't look right. So I had to make new corners. This is one of them, made with (again) 1 mm Evergreen card cut, files, Proxxon thick grinding disks and sand paper. On the picture you can see the difference between the two corners: Here are the two cornerpieces; for the right one I made a small lengthening part. One piece positioned: Both: See the difference in height and size of the doorway and compare to the original example on the computer screen: I'm happy! After applying multiple thin layers of Mr. Surfacer 500 and half hour of sanding 3.200 and 6.000, a smooth piece: Time spent building, planning, drawing: 41H. Studying: 13H.

Filing the bottom and sides, having cut out and filed a piece of 1 mm Evergreen card (= perfect thickness): Little drawing on the new card piece: The piece: Fitted, I was content with it: Also filling the slot below with 1 mm. plasticard (use the minisaw, not scissors or knife): Here you can see the difference in height and size of the doorway: But then I saw something I didn't like at all!

Wanted to show this to my girlfriend but it seems Photobucket doesn't show the pics?

Guess I'm going to have to steal some of these numerous incredible ideas... fantastic and what a great diorama!

Thanks Iain Here one can compare the completely flatted bulkhead front and the lowering + widening work. Quite a difference, especially the lowering part! Of course I haven't filled the top of the doorway yet.

Tried to sand the lifting column. Better to use a grinding block on my Proxxon. Then I tried sanding again... it works eventually, taking good care not to damage the raised detail. Problem is that my U-shaped sanding paper holder held a LOT of sanding paper today. This is sanding paper cemetary: Unless being VERY careful they just break very easily. I have to find another solution. Meanwhile I measured the bulkhead's doorway because I didn't feel the doorway should be positioned so high. I compared the dimensions with those on a picture and I turned out to be right. Here's the drawing: So what does it mean: Dimensions of the real model: [top to bottom] [top bulkhead to top door] [top door to bottom door except L-shaped thin piece] [bottom door to bottom floor except raised lines] [door width] Real model: 13.95 / 2.03 / 8.42 / 3.50 / 4.65. Revell part: 5.14 / 0.65 / 2.95 / 1.55 / 1.67. Should be: 5.14 / 0.75 / 3.10 / 1.29 / 1.71. Master Details part: 5.11 / 0.63 / 3.00 / 1.52 / 1.68. Should be: 5.11 / 0.74 / 3.08 / 1.28 / 1.70. As I will use the Revell part, the following has to be amended: 1) Top of the doorway will be lowered 1 millimeter. 2) Bottom of the doorway will be lowered 1.5 millimeter. 3) Both sides of the doorway will be widened 0.2 millimeter. Those who will use the Master Details part can use the above Master Details numbers for their build. On top of the drawing you can see the Revell part with the new height of the doorway drawn on it (obviously the drawing is much too far to the right). Time spent building, planning, drawing: 38H. Studying: 13H.

Marus, being no native speaker of the English language, please forgive me for not exactly understanding your middle sentence. Would you be so kind as to rephrase?

Looks awesome.

Thanks Ferry, it will probably be the slowest topic ever; but hopefully interesting for those who want to build their own 111. They can see whether there are parts they want to change as well. That's why I include as much info I found as reasonably possible. Making it an ultra slow thread. It won't be for a couple of weeks before I'll be able to paint the cockpit for example. BTW nice that we're both on this (kinda) niche forum of Anglo-Saxon nature, and we live about 10 miles from one another... in the Netherlands, of all places

You've managed to improve your earlier work, which wasn't at all bad to start with. Looks great, only complaint I'd have is that it'll be hidden within the fuselage unless you look real careful from a very specific angle probably. Guess the viewer will have to look real careful from a very specific angle then.

Here's what I mean; perhaps I'll also have to take a bit away from the right 'rod' (photo copyright remains with Squadron: buy their book as referenced in my first post): Also the 'rods' have to be made thicker vertically.

Thanks Peter..

Loic, it really was Matt I haven't seen the Master Details cockpit used either. Let's see if it is as good as I hope it will be. One thing that has to be amended is some back lifting mechanism parts. As mentioned earlier, the H-form base is not symmetrical if seen from the front of the plane. Today I found out that the front fork IS symmetrical but the back fork isn't. This is made possible by the curving fuselage. Only 3 parts need to be corrected: parts 5, 11 and 12 (my numbering: see a previous picture). See the plan before and after:

*big smile* I will definitely be following this.

Hi Ron, thanks - your reaction makes it easier for me to choose that option. I spent some 3 hours sorting out the several parts. First I copied the instruction pages, then I put all the several parts on them. Fortunately the drawing is about the same size as the parts. Obviously, the smaller the parts, the more difficult distinction became. I recommend this sorting business to anyone who will use this set (insofar it is still available). And don't throw anything away until you've found all parts. Some parts are transparent (resin) and I had already thrown on my 'to throw away-pile', until I found out that they were the chains for the pilot seat lifting mechanism. Extremely delicate stuff and I'm not sure how to work with those parts yet. This is one of the chains mentioned above: After the sorting business I had three remaining piles: Top left: spare parts. Some larger parts, probably erroneously included. Bottom left: very small parts. 4 of those still have to be fitted somewhere. The rest is extra material. Bottom right: supposedly for the bin. But let's hold on to it for a bit longer just to be sure Took a large cardboard and used Tamiya tape to attach all parts to it. According to Master Details the kit has 97 parts. Actually, the number of parts as depicted on the drawings is exactly 100. There are 19 spare parts. This I didn't know before, so it's a good thing to be aware of when you're starting the sorting process. I think for some parts you are given the choice between resin and white metal. Time spent building, planning, drawing: 32H. Studying: 11H.

Just posting this in one of the several B17-threads... I'm currently watching "Pawn Stars" and it features some nice views of a pristine B17's exterior and interior. Very nice! Check the 19 December 2011 broadcast on their website.

Thanks Marus, but I really would choose the wording "I show you how I do it" rather than "I show you how to do it". It will be a few more projects before I'll be able to teach you guys anything I took the time to study the Heinkel interior kit. It looks very good with many parts, but one thing is a bit of a pity. The bulkhead is a bit deformed. Not only warped (which can be corrected easily) but also horizontally/vertically. The door is not straight. The following pictures probably show the problem. So what to do... I think I'll use the Revell version for this, copying the resin part's features (sawing stuff off of the resin bulkhead, sticking it onto the Revell part and living one day shorter) and using Eduard's 'fuse box' or whatever it is above the pilot seat, because it's neater than the resin version. Would this be a good idea? Or would you do it differently? Any view is appreciated.

Hi Michael, if you have "The Nutter" (SmallShop; used for making individual raised rivets) and resin, you can cast your own landing lights. Then the background would be their tri-foil. http://www.thesmallshop.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=6