bushande Posted January 19, 2020 Author Share Posted January 19, 2020 BTW NOTE THE LITTLE KINK ON THE INNER EDGE OF THE SLATS! That is intentional! Next time, the cockpit will get some tiny detailling and hopefully the intake will be a little more extensive than what the kit provides and then the assembly of the fuselage should follow soon. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jenshb Posted January 19, 2020 Share Posted January 19, 2020 Like how you illustrate your changes on the model with very clear reference photos. Well done. Jens bushande 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bushande Posted January 21, 2020 Author Share Posted January 21, 2020 (edited) Many thanks for the continued interest. Yes, I am trying to accompany my efforts with reference material wherever and whenever possible. Otherwise it would just be a modellers boast on being more accurate than the kit without substance. I do see such WIPs as a reference for fellow modellers who might venture in the same type and this way it might serve best as a support for others I think. However, this time it is somewhat hard to provide proper reference because I am now attending to the cockpit and the intakes and I confess, the Luftwaffe does not like it if someone is taking pics into the intakes and into the cockpit. Don't ask me why, as there are at least reg. the pit, some shots out there on the net. However, these images are not mine so I do want to be careful with posting other images. I did manage to take some decent shots of "my" Ghost Tiger but I don't want to steer any trouble posting them too broadly. Edited January 21, 2020 by bushande Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bushande Posted January 21, 2020 Author Share Posted January 21, 2020 As I said, there is virtually nothing extra for the 1 / 48er Tiffy. Doesn't matter much. One can somehow get it all fixed DIY ... One really doesn't have to invest a lot of work in the cockpit per se. The consoles are simple, but their layout is complete and authentic. Since I want to illuminate, I have inserted a few openings for the fiber optic strands, if possible without influencing the few details too much. I drilled out the displays, printed a Tiffy cockpit on do-it-yourself decals based on original photos and blueprint drawings, cut them up and glued them on transparent plastic sheets, which in turn were glued to the display frame. The result could certainly turn out a lot better with any other model builder, but I admit, even if the Tiffy is in 1/48, it's all really small ... (or I'm just getting old ). Well, it should be enough for me for now. Landrotten Highlander 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bushande Posted January 21, 2020 Author Share Posted January 21, 2020 I had already detailed the walls a bit. A quick coat of paint and some weathering to emphasize the shadows is more than enough, but frankly, it is probably a rather pointless job. The cockpit is so narrow and later there is a pilot in it; ultimately you won't see any of it. Nevertheless, "as the original, so the model" is my motto hihihi. I painted the inside with bold gloss black to minimize any light leaks later. It doesn't have to look nice, it just has to be efficient: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bushande Posted January 21, 2020 Author Share Posted January 21, 2020 Revell offers a rather complicated structure for the intake and unfortunately only a far too short intake channel without even the smallest trace of compressor blades. Admittedly, at the end you will hardly see anything, but you really can't leave it that way. After assembling the two basic parts, I simply rolled up cardboard paper, glued it carefully together, cut a length that was realistic for me, which was reinforced with a few plastic rings at the end and glued to the kit intakes at a slight angle. For the compressor blades, I scanned an image of the EJ-200 front from an MTU advertising sheet, modified it a bit graphically and simply printed it out in different scales. The whole thing could of course be way more detailed three dimensionally, but in the end the fan blades are so deep in the rather narrow channel that one would not recognize this work even with the best will. This image on two round plastic disks must simply do it for the time being ... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bushande Posted January 21, 2020 Author Share Posted January 21, 2020 And as you can see, in the end, after some painting and installation you can see exactly ..... nothing ... The side walls still look a bit rigid. It does not matter. The whole thing is still glued, filled, sanded and painted. Landrotten Highlander 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bushande Posted January 21, 2020 Author Share Posted January 21, 2020 After installing the cockpit tub, I fixed the fiber optics and underlaid them with clear green color. There are a few official Luftwaffe / RAF images of the illuminated cockpit which should be public domain and that I hope I can show for reference without causing problems. Please let me know if I am mistaken in my legal opinion here, then I will remove the pictures immediately. At least that much: In contrast to some other aircraft, green dominates here. My meager approach won't look as chic in the end, but at least the color is right. Landrotten Highlander 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bushande Posted January 21, 2020 Author Share Posted January 21, 2020 A few more fiber optics placed on the fin and wing tips, the inside of the fuselage well "tarred" with gloss black; very important, the sides of the intake channels behind the opened grids are underlaid with paper!, the initially cobbled together cables/wires and the three LEDs are roughly laid (it's not a big deal, one LED in the cockpit and two for the engines, everything else is done with light guides) and put some silver paper as insulation and light intensifier in a couple of critical places. A little advice: In contrast to the assembly instructions, I would glue the tops of the wings to the two fuselage halves before marrying the top and bottom. So you do not risk a step between the fuselage and the wing root. Landrotten Highlander 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bushande Posted January 21, 2020 Author Share Posted January 21, 2020 A large LED behind the instrument panel is enough for me. You can always do better, but the fewer LEDs, the more leeway I have for small batteries. In the end, the light effect for the displays is enough for me and I get by with four button cells that I can hide under the Airbrake: Landrotten Highlander 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bushande Posted January 21, 2020 Author Share Posted January 21, 2020 Sooooo .... the die is cast! as the saying goes hihihi. The fuselage is glued and from now on the fun work of detailing continues. Until the next post. Landrotten Highlander and Out2gtcha 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bushande Posted January 22, 2020 Author Share Posted January 22, 2020 Sooooo ..... today it's time for a little fun again. After the fuselage is glued together, I can go back to adding more details. So what other little things does the inclined modeller notice when comparing with the original? Luftwaffe Eurofighters of current equipment standards no longer have a round "light bulb" on the fin, but three neat and above all flat LEDs. Accordingly, the fiber optic strand is sanded from round to flat. Processing time: 10 seconds. But!!! The bracket in which the whole thing sits must be adjusted according to the template. Processing time: a stiff 5 minutes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bushande Posted January 22, 2020 Author Share Posted January 22, 2020 (edited) OK, what's still possible ... When the intace ramps are lowered, one can see that the edges of the intace walls are somewhat "rounded", or rather the intace ramps are not completely flush with the intace wall. The walls of the Revell kit are smooth and flat at this point. I carefully bent these corners with the tweezers, but be careful, something can break off very quickly! The inner intake walls are also glued together and properly sanded and evened out now. Edited January 22, 2020 by bushande Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bushande Posted January 22, 2020 Author Share Posted January 22, 2020 Just a little something and a "quick fix", but the five drain openings on the belly in front of the nose gear door are incorrectly positioned relative to the surrounding panels and the splitter. Simply fill in and drill again. It's not a big deal. Revell has tried to lay the glueing edges of the wings and fuselage along actual panel lines. In principle, that's a good idea, but because of the fit there is still a paragraph that you have to fill up and grind. But it doesn't matter much, because there were missing some panels anyway, which you can add right away: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bushande Posted January 22, 2020 Author Share Posted January 22, 2020 The leading edge of the fin has a small opening (I suspect for cooling ?!). Revell forgot about that. Again, it's not a big deal: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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