BloorwestSiR Posted April 26, 2016 Author Share Posted April 26, 2016 Hi Shaka, That's the paint itself. Most Gunze paints are semi-gloss so I usually end up with a satin finish. I don't think it makes a difference with the masks though. Hopefully tonight I'll get them on and start on the markings. Carl Shaka HI 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BloorwestSiR Posted April 26, 2016 Author Share Posted April 26, 2016 Hello Carl. Could not sleep so just re-read through your brilliant build and caught up. EXCELLENT camoflage work...FLAWLESS And I do like the fact that your workbench is neat and tidy... a man after MY own heart... shows order and organized mind. Keep up the top quality of your work. Good night. Thanks Maru, although credit for the neat bench goes to Shaka. He asked so politely and it is easier to find stuff now. I even have a small hand vac to clean up any small bits on the bench now. Carl Shaka HI 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shaka HI Posted April 26, 2016 Share Posted April 26, 2016 LOL...ya, whatever man. I got a small handheld vac, too. If you don't mind, more detail on using the masks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BloorwestSiR Posted April 26, 2016 Author Share Posted April 26, 2016 Sure, I'll try to do a step by step on how I use the masks. Shaka HI 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BloorwestSiR Posted April 27, 2016 Author Share Posted April 27, 2016 OK, t one for painting on some roundels. First thing I do is I draw an "X" from corner to corner on each roundel. I also number each element so I know which one goes with which. The "X" helps with alignment after you start removing and reapplying individual elements. I will usually also remove the excess mask material around the edges. This just makes it easier to find each individual marking. I then use either a square of the masking material or frisket to remove and transfer the mask in one piece. This can be a bit of a challenge to remove it from the backing paper this way but it keeps everything in alignment and reduces the chance of distortion. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BloorwestSiR Posted April 27, 2016 Author Share Posted April 27, 2016 Here is the upper wing roundel in place. Don't press it down yet as you want to check the position. Moving this one around caused some wrinkles but they can be carefully smoothed out. The masking film has a bit of stretch to it and is very forgiving. It will return to its original shape if you haven't pulled it too hard. On the lower wing, there are a number of bumps and blisters. The mask won't lay completely flat over them. Shaka HI 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shaka HI Posted April 27, 2016 Share Posted April 27, 2016 (edited) Thanks Carl! Curious if you can tape the inner part of the masks together to place them all together during positioning, then apply the framing mask? Edited April 27, 2016 by Shaka HI Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BloorwestSiR Posted April 27, 2016 Author Share Posted April 27, 2016 To deal with that, I usually press down on the mask just before I spray the paint. I also use masking tape to cover the edges of the mask as well as the seams between the elements. This prevents overspray and any paint getting onto unwanted areas of the mask. Starting from the innermost element, I remove it and placed it on the backing paper. I then paint it using a slightly thinner mix of paint. You don't want too much building up. This is the reason I don't use a primer here either. Once the paint is dry I then reapply the mask, aligning it with the marks I drew on earlier. I then remove the next element and spray that colour. On the lower wing: Shaka HI 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BloorwestSiR Posted April 27, 2016 Author Share Posted April 27, 2016 I just noticed it's almost 1 am. I'll have to finish this tomorrow so stay tuned. Shaka HI 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shaka HI Posted April 27, 2016 Share Posted April 27, 2016 Sleep is overrated, but I understand..LOL. Thank you! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BloorwestSiR Posted April 27, 2016 Author Share Posted April 27, 2016 Sleep is overrated, but I understand..LOL. Thank you! I can usually get by on 6 hours but my boys have been waking up early. Otherwise I would've just finished Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BloorwestSiR Posted April 27, 2016 Author Share Posted April 27, 2016 Carl. AWESOME...good step by step tutorial Thanks Maru! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BloorwestSiR Posted April 27, 2016 Author Share Posted April 27, 2016 (edited) Back to the tutorial, here's the underwing roundel with the red and white having been sprayed. The masks are back in place to cover them. You can see how the "X" helps make sure it all fits back together. To get the mask to better conform around the bumps, I'll carefully put a couple small slits in it at the edge of the bumps and then press it down. Make sure to press it down again just before spraying. You then repeat for the blue section. Here's the final result after all the tape and masks are peeled off. A little overspray can happen but these can be touched up using the mask in just that area. Edited April 27, 2016 by BloorwestSiR Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BloorwestSiR Posted April 27, 2016 Author Share Posted April 27, 2016 Here's the Spitfire with all the roundels done. I'll do the lettering tonight. Shaka HI and dmthamade 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shaka HI Posted April 27, 2016 Share Posted April 27, 2016 Thanks for the comprehensive tutorial, Carl! Much appreciated! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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