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Guest Peterpools

Carl

Awesome cammo work ... you sure have the touch

Keep 'em coming

Peter

Edited by Peterpools

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Hello Carl.

 

Could not sleep so just re-read through your brilliant build and caught up.

 

EXCELLENT camoflage work...FLAWLESS :bow:

 

And I do like the fact that your workbench is neat and tidy... a man after MY own heart... shows order and organized mind.

 

Keep up the top quality of your work.

 

Good night.

 

:thumbsup:

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Hi Shaka,

 

That's the paint itself. Most Gunze paints are semi-gloss so I usually end up with a satin finish. I don't think it makes a difference with the masks though.

 

Hopefully tonight I'll get them on and start on the markings.

 

Carl 

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Hello Carl.

 

Could not sleep so just re-read through your brilliant build and caught up.

 

EXCELLENT camoflage work...FLAWLESS :bow:

 

And I do like the fact that your workbench is neat and tidy... a man after MY own heart... shows order and organized mind.

 

Keep up the top quality of your work.

 

Good night.

 

:thumbsup:

 

Thanks Maru, although credit for the neat bench goes to Shaka. He asked so politely and it is easier to find stuff now. I even have a small hand vac to clean up any small bits on the bench now. 

 

Carl

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OK, t one for painting on some roundels.

 

First thing I do is I draw an "X" from corner to corner on each roundel. I also number each element so I know which one goes with which.

 

IMG_20160426_215329.jpg

 

 

The "X" helps with alignment after you start removing and reapplying individual elements.

 

I will usually also remove the excess mask material around the edges. This just makes it easier to find each individual marking.

 

IMG_20160426_215442.jpg

 

I then use either a square of the masking material or frisket to remove and transfer the mask in one piece. This can be a bit of a challenge to remove it from the backing paper this way but it keeps everything in alignment and reduces the chance of distortion.

 

IMG_20160426_215931.jpg

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Here is the upper wing roundel in place.

 

 

IMG_20160426_220136.jpg

 

Don't press it down yet as you want to check the position.

 

Moving this one around caused some wrinkles but they can be carefully smoothed out. The masking film has a bit of stretch to it and is very forgiving. It will return to its original shape if you haven't pulled it too hard.

 

 

IMG_20160426_220414.jpg

 

IMG_20160426_221200.jpg

 

On the lower wing, there are a number of bumps and blisters. The mask won't lay completely flat over them.

 

IMG_20160426_221352.jpg

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To deal with that, I usually press down on the mask just before I spray the paint. I also use masking tape to cover the edges of the mask as well as the seams between the elements.

 

IMG_20160426_223831.jpg

 

This prevents overspray and any paint getting onto unwanted areas of the mask.

 

Starting from the innermost element, I remove it and placed it on the backing paper. I then paint it using a slightly thinner mix of paint. You don't want too much building up. This is the reason I don't use a primer here either.

 

IMG_20160426_224621.jpg

 

IMG_20160426_224332.jpg

 

Once the paint is dry I then reapply the mask, aligning it with the marks I drew on earlier.

 

IMG_20160426_225456.jpg

 

I then remove the next element and spray that colour.

 

IMG_20160426_225538.jpg

 

On the lower wing:

 

 

IMG_20160426_230354.jpg

 

IMG_20160426_230843.jpg

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