dylan the rabbit Posted September 20, 2008 Author Share Posted September 20, 2008 Sanding, filling, sanding, filling.... Cowling fit's a howler. Needs, you guessed it, sanding. Got the rear wings on, and have dropped the elevators. Just waiting for the glue goop in the join to dry so I can, well, sand them.. Isn't the quality of that bath fantastic though? Malabar's finest plumbers! Thanks landlord! Oh, and here's where I've been working the last couple of evenings. The other two kits have been sanded too.. Anyone got any bright ideas as to how to recreate the little Airfix rivets I had to sand off?!! Nick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rotary Posted September 21, 2008 Share Posted September 21, 2008 hi nick, tose 'rear wings' are called ---wait for it-------tailplanes---the 'moving surfaces -----elevators. for what it's worth this is what i always did with the hurri---many times. first the wings---even on the thick winged hurri----are far too thick! first roughen up the inside area of the tips (far to bulbous---no finnesse) top/bottom then bung on milliput superfine---then glue wings up------now comes the hard work------sand the whole bloody lot until youv'e reduced the thickness overall and sand the tips until you come to the milli. ----razor sharp extreme tips especially. then--either live without rivets or use a pounce wheel----this of course gives 'indented rivets' which are'nt correct but improves the model overall by introducing some thickness corrective where it's needed. also (i bet youv'e noticed) be very aware of the dreaded saggy wings----they want to droop and it kills many an otherwise good model----the hurri needs dihedral--so many people think the wings ar flat-----not so. did you pick up my p.m. answering your query spit. props? tose depressions are sink marks mate----fill em. cheers, dave. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dylan the rabbit Posted September 21, 2008 Author Share Posted September 21, 2008 hi nick, tose 'rear wings' are called ---wait for it-------tailplanes---the 'moving surfaces -----elevators. for what it's worth this is what i always did with the hurri---many times. first the wings---even on the thick winged hurri----are far too thick! first roughen up the inside area of the tips (far to bulbous---no finnesse) top/bottom then bung on milliput superfine---then glue wings up------now comes the hard work------sand the whole bloody lot until youv'e reduced the thickness overall and sand the tips until you come to the milli. ----razor sharp extreme tips especially. then--either live without rivets or use a pounce wheel----this of course gives 'indented rivets' which are'nt correct but improves the model overall by introducing some thickness corrective where it's needed. also (i bet youv'e noticed) be very aware of the dreaded saggy wings----they want to droop and it kills many an otherwise good model----the hurri needs dihedral--so many people think the wings ar flat-----not so. did you pick up my p.m. answering your query spit. props? tose depressions are sink marks mate----fill em. cheers, dave. I am standing corrected sahib! My Hurri's got fat wings. No two ways about it. Buils OOB 'fraid, and I bain't cracking them open now! Thanks for the tips though. Just checked the diehdral and they (the front ones!) seem fine (not flat or saggy!) Never got your PM about the Spit prop, but they've now been filled in. I'll go over the areas affected by the sand paper and make some indented rivets with a pin. Better than nothing I guess. Cheers Dave, Nick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rotary Posted September 21, 2008 Share Posted September 21, 2008 only pulling your leg mate-----and i DO struggle making this bloody computer do what i want. crack along with both your builds to the best bit----paint and decs o' course. cheers, dave. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeMaben Posted September 21, 2008 Share Posted September 21, 2008 Hurricane dihedral is a tricky thing. It actually has 2. The dihedral on the bottom of the wing is much greater than the dihedral on the top which is very slight and can appear to the naked eye to be flat. The center section is flat and the dihedral (top and bottom) starts just outboard of that center section. You can't really just pull up on the wingtips and expect any accuracy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rotary Posted September 21, 2008 Share Posted September 21, 2008 Hurricane dihedral is a tricky thing. It actually has 2. The dihedral on the bottom of the wing is much greaterthan the dihedral on the top which is very slight and can appear to the naked eye to be flat. The center section is flat and the dihedral (top and bottom) starts just outboard of that center section. You can't really just pull up on the wingtips and expect any accuracy. quite right mike-----although i never mentioned anything about 'just pulling up on the wingtips' what i was doing was mentioning that many otherwise good models are spoilt by not getting the correct dihedral--and that the hurri in particular has not got flat wings-----look at the latest update---curtis P40 shots----one even shows a hurri in the background---they both suffer from 'flat wing syndrome' dave. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeMaben Posted September 22, 2008 Share Posted September 22, 2008 Hey Dave, my post was not referencing yours. I just said that to point out that the usual methodology for adjusting dihedral wouldn't work. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rotary Posted September 23, 2008 Share Posted September 23, 2008 hi mike, not being 'huffy' mate----i would have posted a head on like yours --- if i bloody well knew how to!!! sad old man. best, dave. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dylan the rabbit Posted April 2, 2009 Author Share Posted April 2, 2009 Well, I thought after almost 6 months hibernation, I'd better try to get back into the plastic tickling.. The reason for being away? A mixture of a lot of work, busy family life, no time for modelling and a general apathy. In addition, I developed an interest in renovating my childhood Action Men, and that took over as a little hobby for the last 4-5 months. Anyhow, back to the Hurricane! The stencils for the spray masks arrived from Nenad a few weeks ago, and I thought I should crack on with it. I'm thinking of replacing the Airfix landing gear with something a little stronger. This is designed for the Trumpeter kit, but I'm wondering if anyone has used it on an Airfix, and with what result? http://www.a2zeemodels.co.uk/hurricane-lan...gear-1549-p.asp If it's a no go, what else is out there in white metal? Cheers, Nick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rotary Posted April 2, 2009 Share Posted April 2, 2009 hi nick, glad to see you back in the saddle mate. iv'e used them on my last two hurri builds (both trumpeter) and they are perfect---a tad too long in my estimation--but that may just be me. i won't go so far to say they are in the 'unloaded' state, but i think(without measurements mind) they are--like the kits (trump. and airfix) just a tad too extended. anyway, i just bedded them in a bit deeper---bottom line, they're excellent and absolutely see no bar to using them on airfix hurri. mind you, my first (when it first came out) and every other iteration of the old girl iv'e ever built up until trumps. used exclusively the kit legs-----wheels are not perfect but not bad. (u/cart doors are in fact a little better on airfix---about the only thing that is)! someone else may know better though mate. dave. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dylan the rabbit Posted April 18, 2009 Author Share Posted April 18, 2009 Dave, How did you fit the metal, made for Trumpeter legs on the Airfix? It seems the attachment points are all different. Cheers, Nick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rotary Posted April 18, 2009 Share Posted April 18, 2009 Dave, How did you fit the metal, made for Trumpeter legs on the Airfix? It seems the attachment points are all different. Cheers, Nick ah!--as i said nick---i only ever used kit legs on airfix hurri--- metal legs on two trump. builds---near enough perfect. my feelings are that i see no reason why you could'nt fit them into airfix wheel wells and ignore the kit supplied attachment points---they won't be dead accurate anyway!!! not as much as some of the guys here think IS all that accurate on the old girl----i loved her and 'did' her many times (once as a fabric wing/no underfin/reduced area rudder/ two bladed propper!--and i seem to remember the hardest part of that (fiddly for me) was the venturi!!!!!!!! must have had loads of goes at it and never got it right!!!!---used spit wheels (5 spokes needed--but too small really) anyhoo----if you have the metal legs--make em fit---but if you haven't bought em yet---save your money---she'll sit on the kit legs (actually the kit doors are in my opinion slightly better than trumps!!!!!! (shock/horror) but really nothing else is able to compare----she still holds very fond memories though from the days when she was (with revell) the only game in town---both definately hurris---both flawed---both nice--one now completely overshadowed.----make no mistake though nick---plenty of us guys watching you with great memories mate--being rekindled by your efforts mate. dave. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dylan the rabbit Posted April 18, 2009 Author Share Posted April 18, 2009 Thanks Dave. I did actually buy a set of the replacement legs, and would prefer to use them, if I can get them to fit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rotary Posted April 18, 2009 Share Posted April 18, 2009 i'm sure they'll fit somehow nick---the hurri geometry is fairly straightforward locate the main legs and make sure you use thick visc. super glue---remember the wheels 'toe out' a fair bit so don't lose that by mistakenly setting the legs back---when viewed from the front----look at good photos for appearence under load----with the doors temp. in place you must not see any leg extremities showing at lower edge----if you do---bed the legs in deeper the wheel discs----hubs i mean-- are at least 3/4 covered by the doors---otherwise your hurri will look 'stilty legged'----this is an awkward one to explain nick, and iv'e almost certainly made it sound more daunting than it is---compare the legs (plastic/metal and find a 'common denominator' and use it as a datum the 'sit' is all important and dont be afraid to jiggle the location a bit until you 'feel' it's right---then, when your certain it looks good--hit the thick super glue with accelerator---- then put on the 'extra' bits., always remember that important leg length nick---no 'leg' at all must be protruding under the lower edge of the leg covers. (doors) dave. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dylan the rabbit Posted October 4, 2015 Author Share Posted October 4, 2015 The thread from the dead... 6 years. Not bad eh? What with work and family commitments, moving house and a whole bunch of other stuff, I stopped the modelling. I have a little time now, and am focusing on one kit at a time. This time, it's the Hurricane. It's interesting taking an old kit out from mothballs to carry on the unfinished build. I'm sitting here scratching my head wondering why I never included certain parts before zipping it up, what combination of colours did I use to replicate that exact joyless modelling Nazi shade of green, why I bought the white metal undercarriage legs for the Trumpy 1/24th kit "hoping" they would fit, and how exactly I'm going to finish this kit ten years after taking the wrapping off the box.. I spent yesterday evening with the old bird reacquainting myself with what I'd done before, cleaned her up a bit, and then re did the cowling and other access panel points. They're not as good as the ones I did first, but I can't for the life of me figure out how I did them. These ones will do.. A bit of brass tubing end, cut, filed down a little and put in a pin vise to make a hole and leave a central part. Not accurate I know, but it'll do for me. Next, it'll need a good sand down to clean up the rough edges before priming. Oh, and the radiator needs working on before that happens. Cheers, Nick Sparzanza 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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