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jetmech777

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Everything posted by jetmech777

  1. Thanks for getting in on this Bob. I will send the email again. I am very interested in any and all parts to help out the Revell Typhoon.
  2. Great question Daywalker. I was going to ask the same thing. The price for the full resin kit is close to the price of a revell kit + upgrades. I was given a revell kit and emailed MDC(over a month ago) about the compatability of their parts and what was available, but never got a reply. I am anxiously awaiting some replys to your question!
  3. Hey Harold, I love your stuff! I was wondering if you will be doing some re-releases of the Kinetic F-86 correction parts and cockpit? It seems a lot of the stuff at MidTenn Hobbies is sold out. Thanks.
  4. Beautiful work on the cockpit!!! I put my Corsair aside waiting with great anticipation for Chris's cowl. Anxious to see how this one turns out.
  5. Thanks all. rafju that picture is awesome! It has the winterized exhaust. I knew they were winterized, I just didn't know what it looked like up close. The video really shows how bad it was there. I need to learn to do mud! At least the question of paint is clarified. I will use straight OD and pile on the yuck from there.
  6. Thanks for the answers guys. I suppose weathering up north would be different. I look forward to the airshow pics. I am going to History channel.com and see if I can find that show. It sounds like a perfect visual reference. It just seemed odd to me that in drawings and diecast models etc, the paint seemed a different shade. The Baracudacals I have calls for regular OD.
  7. I have a Hasegawa 1/32 P-40E that is next in line to do. I bought aftermarket Aleutian Tiger decals for it. I noticed ,while looking at references, that the upper camo color appears to be a different(darker) shade of OD. Is there a different spec for the OD used in Alaska? If it is a different shade, who makes it in paint? While I'm at it, is there anything else I should be aware of for this kit or Aleutian P-40's? Thanks.
  8. Grizly, That sure looks like a fine Corsair to me.
  9. Thanks rafju for the breakdown. I agree with your assessment. It sounds like there may be a new cowling with cowl flaps in process(see thread on this site). I think the true details cockpit is a winner. It is sounding like I'm going to have to borrow from one of my old built Revell Corsairs or get another Revell kit on the cheap to rob parts out of. I'm thinking of Lone star wheels(diamond tread). No new motor. Is it not a good idea to use the Mastercasters cowl flaps? If I rob a cowling, I would like to put these resin ones on. What about the metal gear legs? It would be fantastic for an aftermarket company to come up with complete correction sets for each of the available kits. I think they would sell like hotcakes. I always hope for the impossible. Of course by the time I get this project near completion....Tamiya or someone else will drop an all new kit. That is how it goes. I always have room for another Corsair though.
  10. I'm gathering "stuff" for a near future Corsair build and would be more than willing to request a corrected cowling from whomever takes on this project.
  11. That was my thought also on the Revell Corsair. I think I would still need to get the Lone star flaps and wells. I am hesitant to do the flaps as you did so well on yours. If I decide for sure on a Trumpeter kit. What would be the must do's or must replace items for that kit. I know about the forward gear doors and cowl flaps. I think I might cut the cockpit floor and maybe add some Eduard etch. I would like to make the Corsair nice but, as I hit another brick wall with my current project, I need it to be do-able.
  12. Allok, that is one masterful build! That is why I came here with the question. There is some seriously skilled builders over here. If I could get a Corsair to look half as good as the ones on LSP,I would be proud to put it on the mantle. Thanks for looking into your decals LSP Ray. Allok's build makes me rethink another Revell kit. That amount of scratchbuilding though is too much for me. I still want to have fun. Modelling is my escape and needs to not be tedious or frustrating like my last couple of builds.
  13. The Kagero monograph volume 1 had the decals for 833 I believe. As of right now I am planning on doing a VF-17 bird unless I can find decals to do one of Boyingtons lesser known rides.
  14. Thanks for all the links and help. I did not know about the thin/thick prop thing. I thought it was only a length issue. A new prop then. I wish I could get a Kagero book with the decals for 833. I have plenty of time to worry about decals though. The 21st century kit is not an option. I looked at one built by a friend and we both agree that there is something odd about the shape. Couldn't pin it down exactly. I personally thought it was the wing angle/shape. It would be great if Tamiya would just scale up their 1/48 series of Corsairs. Give the 1/48 scale kit to Hobbycraft and let them blow it up to 1/32 like they did the AM kits of the early Mustangs. Then again...maybe not because any fit issues are amplified(if there are any). I plan on displaying the Corsair down and dirty. That is one big reason I'm considering the Trumpeter kit over the Revell kit. The $25 +sh for flaps + Revell kit is getting close to the price of the Trumpeter kit alone.
  15. I think I will do a Trumpeter F4U-1D. I can rob a cowl from a built Revell kit. I saw an article,I can't remember where right now, that modify's the kit floor in the cockpit. That way I will only need the cowl flaps(mastercasters),maybe some photoetch placards for the pit,new wheels. I saw that the prop is the 13'1" for the D so I may need to use a Revell prop or order a J. Rutman prop. If I am missing anything, let me know. I wish I could get the long OOP decal sheet for Boyington's birds. I have the Eagle Cals sheet for VF-17 that I may use. I have been reading articles and actually taking notes and trying to put together what is necessary and what may be optional.
  16. I have no time frame for the build. I only get to work on any kit for a couple hours a week. It took me 6 months to finish the Hobbycraft A-36. The only aftermarket I used on it was the Aires wheelwell,True details wheels and Eduard cockpit. My main goal is to produce a visually correct F4U. If I did choose the Trumpeter kit, I would redo the gear doors as they are obvious when you see it. I would have to see the cowling to see how bad it is. I know the cowl flaps are messed up. I have no aversion to scratchbuilding fixes over buying aftermarket sets. I don't want to take the build all out. I would prefer to adjust and tweak unless there is something that must be replaced. What would you say would be the "key" issues to address?
  17. I would like your opinions on which of the 1/32 F4U-1 kits would make a more accurate model on a budget. There are plenty of aftermarket resin and photoetch sets for each of the kits available. I, like many of us, have a limited budget. The Revell kit is a less expensive starting point. Once you add the Lone Star flaps and wheel wells, Quickboost engine,Verlinden or True Details cockpit, and Mastercasters cowl flaps, you have over a $100 invested. Similarly, with the Trumpeter kit, you need to add some things to enhance it. Not as much, but the starting price is higher. I have seen some incredible Corsairs built on this site and others. I guess I would like to know what would be the best route to go. I have built several Revell Corsairs in the past and have always wanted a "correct" one to show. To give it some justice and not just an OOB build. I would appreciate your advice. Thank you.
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