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Roy vd M.

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Everything posted by Roy vd M.

  1. Roy vd M.
    Thanks Ferry, Loic and Shepard I added two items to the aftermarket list in my first post: 8 bombs + resin+metal cockpit.
  2. Roy vd M.
    Not so much into the helicopters, but these look splendid! Must have been a lot of riveting work.
  3. Roy vd M.
    Hi Andi, could you please explain how you made those yellow-greenish cable guiders or what material you used? For a similar micro-project I try to drill a hole through a thin Evergreen rod but it's extremely hard to do and almost bound to fail. So I'm curious how you did that. BTW excellent work, of course!
  4. Roy vd M.
    I can just say that there's a big, big smile on my face while viewing this. It's such a great pair, truly a unique build. Fictive diorama to go with it?
  5. Roy vd M.
    Second part of the bending exercise. Not easy, because as thin as it is, this metal will bend only very stubbornly. I found that drilling a hole, putting in the wire and working from that start in bending, worked best for me. Trying to copy the previously made part... simply doesn't work (for me). It's too 3d for that. When working on the undercarriage I fixed it to my new little 2 GBP plastic vice. Perfect little tool and incredible price. The Oslo 111 P2's brake wiring has a wide bend at the lower end. The bend goes towards the backside of the plane. Another Heinkel 111's undercarriage' pictures show the lining on the other side of the undercarriage (front) without such a major bend. I had to check out which interpretation is correct or at least historically unchallengable. I found (only) one relevant picture ("He 111 over all fronts", page 23) and it shows the Oslo method, only with less curvature. I decided to follow that example. That decision having been made, I simply used all pictures on pages 41-45 of the Squadron book (see first post). Only the picture on page 41 shows the left undercarriage, all other pictures (as far as break lines is concerned) show the right undercarriage. Result of about an hour of work (cable guiders yet to be installed): This is the vice I used. Very recommendable and very cheap: Time spent build, plan, draw: 31H. Study: 10H.
  6. Roy vd M.
    Thanks guys, that coming from you lot means a great deal to me!
  7. Roy vd M.
    Looks great, nice to read how you are tackling this.
  8. Roy vd M.
    Ok I'll just continue like this then. Here's a picture of my advanced scratchbuilt wire holders retaining device. I'll need to make a lot of those wire holders for the Heinkel. Ingredients: 5 cm's of wire, three balls of milliput (not mixed) and one drop of superglue (middle ball). To the left are the horizontal holders, to the right the diagonal holders.
  9. Roy vd M.
    Thanks Kevin! Guys, by the way, don't hesitate to tell me if all this text and pictures of E..V..E..R..Y.. S..I..N..G..L..E.. S..T..E..P.. bores you or is considered too much. I don't really know, so any hint or opinion is welcome!
  10. Roy vd M.
    Thanks Thomas and Loic for your encouragement! Instead of continuing my step-by-step cockpit plan as set out above, I decided to purchase a Master Details resin / white metal cockpit. I had to get one all the way from Canada as there seems to be a production stop. On with the landing gear. Wheels have not been Mr Surfacer'd as resin replacements have been ordered. Bending a new break line + diagonal line holders: For each diagonal holder I took a piece of Evergreen 117 (stripes), cut it into tiny rectangles, cut the topright and topleft corner of the rectangles and drilled a hole in it. Then for the horizontal holders I took a piece of rod and did my best to drill a hole in it (0.35 mm. drill). First time worked perfectly, so I thought "ah good, not so hard". Second time worked perfectly as well but the part evaporated into the air when I pushed my knife a bit too clumsily. Then about 10 failures in drilling... not so easy after all then. Here you can see the (yet to be glued) set of 1 line, 2 diagonal holders and two 2 horizontal holders, next to the example. On the picture you can also see two of the 4 holes I drilled into the ends of the 'cross', like the example shows should be there. Here you can see why I do this: Eduard's photo etch part is two-dimensional and too wide. I tried to enhance it by using Mr Surfacer to build layers but that didn't work out the way I wanted. \\ Time spent build, plan, draw: 29H. Study: 10H.
  11. Roy vd M.
    Probably they are in shock by the level of detail fetched in these larger scales. Of course, some have mastered the super-detailing even in 1/72 scale and so, but just think about it... those super-detailers would be able to super-detail more than twice as much super-detailing in 1/32. So the argument of "no need to go into those large scales because these smaller scales can be detailed just as well) really doesn't stand.
  12. Roy vd M.
    Just splendid... what a great finish and what nice realistic weathering... this must have been a LOT of work.
  13. Roy vd M.
    Peter it's supposed to look like that. I first didn't see the reason for joy but then I read the accessory text
  14. Roy vd M.
    Beautiful cockpit work. The ME262 is in my humble view the best looking aircraft ever built.
  15. Roy vd M.
    Thanks Joe, much appreciated!
  16. Roy vd M.
    Thanks John
  17. Roy vd M.
    Thanks Marus!
  18. Roy vd M.
    Thanks Jamme for your nice words!
  19. Roy vd M.
    Yesterday I took the chance to ask my girlfriend to make some better pictures of this cart. So here they are, to round off this thread. Bear in mind, the one thing that has to be done is give this thing a matte coating. Thanks for watching everyone!
  20. Roy vd M.

    B-17

    Roy vd M. replied to Ferry NL's topic in Works in Progress

    Wow, very impressive! Not only the woodwork, everything looks just like it should; or better.
  21. Roy vd M.
    iPhone -> Canon Ok one more iPhone pic: how it was and how it became: This cost me about 12 hours of work, including research and drawing, and it was deeply satisfying. I enjoyed every moment of it, except maybe the one where I picked and sanded my 40th cake decoration ball because the other ones had vanished into the cosmos. Time spent build, plan, draw: 27H. Study: 9H.
  22. Roy vd M.
    For the walls to have something to hold on to, I installed a H-column inside. Glued in place + puttied + mr. Surfacer 1500'd (almost dry): Detailing: For the knobs I used cake decoration balls: More detailing: Detailing finished + picture of the real deal: [to be continued]
  23. Roy vd M.
    @Loic: "take your time" -> I did yesterday and today as you'll see hereunder. @Ollie: I'd recommend it, it's a fun kit to build. So yesterday and today I worked on the first job: move and detail of communication apparatus. Job: it should be moved forward (see picture @1) and can be detailed a bit more. On pictures it is seen that the box is actually positioned on the metal plate next to the steering column. Pics: AE 73, 80; SQ 10 left, 12 bottom left. Meanwhile I found a contemporary picture of this apparatus featuring a metal box cover for protection. This picture is in the communications manual "hell-FUBL2-He111" to be found on this site: http://www.deutscheluftwaffe.de/archiv/Dokumente/web/new%20site/frames2/Dokumente.htm (click "H"). As the remaining specimens don't have that covering and the manual is from 1942 (H-version, this plane is a P2-version) I'm not sure if it was ever in a P2-plane. Because it looks better without, the choice was easy. On to work! First task was to make a curve in the board on which the communicator rests. I only found out that it was curved while studying images of the communicator itself. In fact, it bridges the curvature. The model board consists of two layers: a Revell part that looks like a barbecued and grilled guinnea pig and an Eduard thin sheet cover. I did away with the photo etch part because it has no added value and the riveting is wrong and recessed. Rivets will be added later. Second task was to make a drawing based on the 5 available pictures. First piece of Evergreen (#117 stripes, cut) was cut and positioned against the front. The '3' part was really narrow: Cutting: From here I abandoned the use of liquid poly for main glueing purposes. I kept using it for side tasks. The problem is that it eats away part of the precisely cut parts. In this very case it turned out to be beneficial, but that was mere luck. Better to use Slo-Zap CA. The 'roof' was made of one pre-scribed and folded plastic part. Once more I could use the liquid poly to make the bend sharper. Here the final form plus its two wall pieces: [to be continued]
  24. Roy vd M.
    Very much so! And I am thrilled by the idea that I will make my own amendments. It's just a great feeling of being able to create something new and better. I've always wanted to do something with my hands and I've never been able to do that (working as a service provider, let's keep it at that) so you can imagine how I'm really enjoying this new thing for me.
  25. Roy vd M.
    And so it goes... On the next pic you can see where all the elements used to be located. Most things were sawed off which worked perfectly with a razor saw. That way, no filling is necessary for the remaining holes. Certain parts were detached by loosening the connector pins. The next pic shows the steering column + raising construction. It clearly shows the alignment deficiency. This is going to be a looooooong thread LOL Time spent build, plan, draw: 16H. Study: 8H
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