Hawkeye's Hobbies

Talked to my LHS owner last night, he got a message from Steven's International that they are now distributing Panda, Kittyhawk and HK so he'll now be bringing those lines in.

Soon the episodes of The Plastic Scale Modeling Hour will populate iTunes directly from its own website, currently it is still doing so from Warbird Radio's which doesn't post until sometime on Thursdays. iTunes then picks it up and adds it to their cache of programming. Once we make the switch, it will post a day earlier. With the show now being independent and syndicated, it is available (with permission) to be aired on other venues such as the websites of those Sponsoring the show. WBR has gone to an On Demand format, no more live shows. We hope to return to a live format with the show on my site in the future. Thanks for listening! Hey Kevin how about coming on the show to talk about LSP, much like Brett Green did for Hyperscale?

Then listen to this episode of my show... http://hawkeyes-squawkbox.com/2012/09/05/if-bigger-is-better-for-you/

Warpath Across the Pacific Can someone who has this book look in the index and see if there is any reference to a Lt John Bronson. John was a friend of mine, he passed a few years ago, who flew gun nosed B-25s in New Guinea and the southwestern Pacific. He used to show us a book that had pics of him and his airplane in it, but I can't remember the title. A high altitude mission was one where they flew more than 1000 feet AGL. Other than enemy fighters and gunners, the biggest threat they faced were their own bombs blowing up underneath them either from being too low or flying too slow. TIA

http://hawkeyes-squawkbox.com/2011/12/17/book-giveaway-contest/

Announcing our next contest... http://hawkeyes-squawkbox.com/2010/11/02/our-next-contest-theme/

Before Christmas is what I was told at iHobby. Check Toys-R-Us, Wal-Mart is dropping the 21CT line. The Mustang will no longer have the screw holes and plugs. It will instead be a compression fitting, kinda like a snap tite kit. Most of us will opt to cut that off so we can test fit before assembly. The kit looks sweet!

Try this: http://cammett.sds02.rocktime.net/

Started the decaling process. Note what I use to hold my model as I work.

Straight out of the box.

Don't I know it. I found that you have to have a uniform base coat first. Hence the reason I did the aluminum first. For a brighter yellow I would use a flat white primer. Yellow tends to be too translucent. The addition of the Red Brown and White solved that issue on this application. Still it took two light layers of the final color over the base of Lemon Yellow to get the proper coverage. Once I'm satisfied with the uniformity of the color, I will apply a couple coats of SnJ Spray Metal Clear (aka Decal Sealer) to get a uniform sheen. Once the decals are on another coat will be applied. I guessing this model will get handled a lot, so the added protection is warranted.

I first applied a base coat of Aluminum SnJ Spray Metal to see where the flaws were. Then I applied coat of Tamiya Lemon Yellow as a primer. Once that was dry. I mixed Lemon Yellow with a tad of Red Brown and White (all Tamiya acrylics). I think the color that I came up with matches the photos I have rather well. I'll let this cure for a day or two before I proceed further. I painted the control surfaces, spinner and canopy frame as well.

I've got tons of photos and movies of ole yeller performing at EAA. I wish I had it done so I could see if R.A himself would sign it next week. I'm leaning towards using Tamiya Lemon Yellow with tinge of orange added.

I'm about ready to start laying paint on the 1:32 Dragon P-51 that I am building, doing Bob Hoover's ROCKWELL INTERNATIONAL (ole yeller) scheme using Thrust Decals. I have a selection of yellow paints. What would be your recommendations?

How long have you had the kit? Resins need time to out gas. Knowing that Fishers is shipping those kits as soon as they are produced they haven't sat idle very long. Leaving the kit opened in a well ventilated area for a couple weeks will help. I've had to use an automotive primer on some of the cruder resin kits I've done. If it has smooth surfaces you might be able to use an enamel based primer.