P-40

Here are some links that hopefully will help you with your Triplane, this one is a very detailed model and shows a number of corrections you can do if you want to go that far. http://www.largescaleplanes.com/articles/M...l/RevellDr1.htm This article isn’t a Triplane, but it gives you an idea on using the details sets available. Notice the wooden prop, on a World War1 plane the prop really stands out and even though they are pretty expensive you can see that they are worth it unless you want to try to carve your own. I don’t buy a lot of aftermarket items, but I will be buying four of these propellers for my four Revell World War1 models http://www.largescaleplanes.com/articles/S...y/SPAD/SPAD.htm Here is my book review and as Mark said it is definitely worth it, a lot of photos and some very good drawings. Here is also a link to a review by Tony, I haven’t seen this book yet but I would like to get it http://www.largescaleplanes.com/reviews/Fo...FokDR1book.html http://www.largescaleplanes.com/reviews/Bo...ess/Dr1/Dr1.htm Here are some other links that may help you, the link for the memorial flight should help you with the cockpit, it’s been a little while since I have looked at the site but they did have some good cockpit photos of restored and or replicas http://www.collectors-edition.de/f-t-s_zei...Dr1_english.htm http://www.wwi-models.org/ http://memorial.flight.free.fr/ Overall I really like the Triplane kit and as can be seen from the article above and also from some photos in our gallery, it can be turned into a very nice looking model and it’s one you don’t see a lot. Looking forward to your progress

Here's some decals http://www.amug.org/%7Ecopperst/

This model has incredible workmanship! http://www.craftsmanshipmuseum.com/Park.htm

Early birdcage, med blue top, light grey bottom...later birdcages, tri-color. Non-exterior colors from this post Modeldad Here is the bottom line..copy and save Wed Mar 10 15:46:26 2004 68.167.56.59 Lee Kolosna has replied (with title "I\'m conflicted"): William Reece is a friend of mine and a member of my modeling club. He and another friend of mine, Larry Webster, aircraft restorer for the New England and Quonset Air Museums, researched extensively interior colors for WWII US Naval aircraft. It was Larry who was contracted by Bill Bosworth for the painting directions of the Accurate Miniatures TBF Avenger. Larry is the "discoverer" of the use of Bronze Green, an event that I consider seminal in the understanding of the subject of aircraft interior colors. I remember the explosion of debate in 1996 on RMS when that kit first came out and what a stir the Bronze Green issue caused. Of course, time has proved Larry correct. Larry is also the discoverer of a reddish-orange primer in birdcage Corsairs, which he has dubbed "Salmon". I've seen it with my own eyes in pieces of preserved interior sections of wrecked Corsairs. Larry has even found a Corsair internal spare part, still in its original packing material, that is completely and undeniably painted Salmon. I held the part in my own hands with William Reece, Dana Bell, and Larry Webster standing by my side at my club's hosting of the 1998 IPMS Region 3 convention. Salmon is a real primer, not a theory as expounded by Tom Cleaver's statement in the review. William dug into Vought documents and found a recipe for the primer in the manufacturing specs. Larry's work with archeological digs of Corsair wrecks show that Salmon was used extensively in the birdcage Corsair and was replaced by Chromate Yellow and then Interior Green as the aircraft continued production for the next ten years. This is the best research that I know, and I believe it because of all the hard work that William and Larry have done to get it right. In William's summary, he states: __________________________________________________ FU-1 Birdcage Corsair: Cockpit: Well this is tricky. The best evidence is black. Photos of F4U-1s taken at the time show the its as being a very dark color. The F4U-1 E & M manual calls for Dull Dark Green. Photos and some wrecks show flat black. A photo of 'Pappy" Boyington in Bruce Gamble's book, The Black Sheep, shows him sitting in a Birdcage with a black armor plate and upper seat. This a/c also has no headrest. All other areas of the F4U-1 Birdcage Corsair would normally be 'Salmon'. Salmon is a pale pinkish/brown primer made by mixing Indian Red pigment with Zinc Chromate Yellow. The closest Munsell match is 2.5 YR 6/8 or between FS 32276 and FS 32356. This color was applied to the whole F4U before the final camo finish. The landing gear bays were this color. The insides of the main gear doors were Light Gray. Sometimes this was only overspray over the Salmon. Note: there were canvas covers on the inner and outer wheel bays that were either Olive Drab or Light Gray. The closest paint that I have found to the Salmon samples in my obsession is Polly Scale Railroad, Southern Pacific Daylight Orange. The wheel bays, engine cowling and accessory cowlings were painted in Non-Specular Light Gray to match the underside of the aircraft. F4U-1A Corsair: Cockpit: FS 34151 Interior Green. All other areas of the F4U-1A were Zinc Chromate Yellow FS 33481. Early F4U-1A's may have been Salmon. Landing gear was Light Gray or Insignia White. Some a/c may have had Aluminum Lacquer landing gear after overhaul or field repaint. ________________________________________________ The landing gear, William says is Lt Gray or White. If it were me, I would go with what William says, as he has done the research. Yes, I have seen two. One was William's (of course) and one was done by Rick DeNatale. Not many modelers have taken to this research though, as I have judged a number of birdcage Corsairs (they are very popular) in various contests over the past six years and not one of them had Salmon wheel wells and cowling. Oh well. Lee K

https://www.largescaleplanes.com/articles/article.php?aid=286 https://www.largescaleplanes.com/articles/article.php?aid=178

The only 109 I ever want to do is Marseille someday, I know he flew an F, didn't see also fly an early G? Would either of Trumpeters 1/24 109's be somewhat easy to convert to his? I'm not a real stickler for details so it wouldn't have to be a 100% accurate conversion.

If you get a chance to work on the Lightning, take some photos for our Full Scale section! The guy I know who restores P-40's (also works on some others) is also in Australia, but I am not sure where.

Here is the information from the guy that restores P-40's in Australia. I was surprised that the seats were stainless-steel, I thought they were aluminum, you learn something every day As far as i know all the early seats up to the had stainless steel seats the later ones had a wood ply composite i will have to get you some photos.The stainless seat is the same shape as the wood one but the wooden seat sits on a tubular frame.

Way cool!! I haven't heard of them before, do they have a web site? Looking forward to your review

Sounds like you are doing a great job on the cockpit, can't wait to see some photos! I am pretty sure the seat was the same between the B and the E, I have a call out to a P-40 restorer to find out and I will let you know what I hear back from him. Here is Rato's excellent article on making the P-40 seat out of brass. The seat drawing is in there, but will need to be scaled to 1/32. http://www.largescaleplanes.com/tips/RatoM...g/Embossing.htm

Here too https://www.largescaleplanes.com/articles/article.php?aid=88

My site has some, look under P-40's Today...hope it helps http://www.p40warhawk.com/

This is looking great already! Maybe some time you could do a short tip on how you install the electric motors?

https://www.largescaleplanes.com/articles/article.php?aid=683

I don't have the messurments of a real .30, but they look pretty close to me

Thanks for all of the suggestions, I have been deciding and two things made up my mind for me. I read Tony's article on the Hasegawa Mustang and after reading that he had to sand of all of the rivets and raised panel lines and rescribe them plus build a new cockpit, I decided to use my Revell. Another reason is I have been looking for a different apartment for awhile, going from a two-bedroom to a one bedroom which will save me quite a bit of money, the late yesterday afternoon and this morning I got two leads which I will be checking out along with a couple others, hopefully I will be moving sort of soon depending on my screwy lease, so I have to watch my money for awhile, the other reason for the Revell, I already have it I looked closer at my Bob Hoover Mustang and decide not to use of that one as it has a late style propeller that is attached to the spinner, the other reason is I look at the cockpit and it is modified like a modern Mustang and has two seats!! I found my old Miss America Mustang and it has a normal cockpit. I am missing the propeller and spinner that I can pull that out of the B kit that I'm going to turn into the racer Beguine someday, I have another spanner and late model propeller that I can convert to the one of propeller they used, I should also get the Beguine details while they are available in 1/32. What I found unusual was that the Miss America and Bob Hoover kits were both released about the same time by Revell but yet the cockpit's and pilots are different? The Bob Hoover kits has very good wheels for Revell of that time frame, the Miss America wheels are absolutely horrible! I will rescribe the panel lines that need it and sand down the rivets so they are barely noticeable, hopefully it looks okay. I know that the nose is a little off, but it's close enough for me, looks close enough to a Mustang to me and I'm not building for a contest or anything. Both kits have a smoked canopy so I will have to try my hand at the heat and smash method of making canopy's. If the kit really ends up looking horrible foray into destroying it with my modeling skills, I will spring for the Trumpeter kit when money allows.

I sent a bunch of stuff from the Phantom Mustang to Larry quite a while ago, there wasn't a lot left of the kit when I got it. I did keep a few parts and I will have to find where I stashed it. I don't remember seeing the fuel tank in the parts that were left from my brother. One good reference book (I don't remember the name of the book off hand), but it's on the restoration of the Mustang a guy found stuffed in a garage and spent around a dozen years restoring it. I have the book somewhere, plus I have a Warbirds article on when he found the Mustang in agarage in St. Louis!

I always wanted to build a P-51D Mustang in the markings of Blondie from the 4th FG, I found the nose art on the net which I have made a transparent GIF of so I could print it out as a decal and I have a number of color photos of it. My question is what would be the best model to use? I don't care about the engine as I am going to keep that area closed up, I don't want to buy any aftermarket items and I already have a good set of 1/32 wheels, I don't mind scratchbuilding items for the cockpit, I have a couple great books for references. Revell P-51D: I already have this kit (an original Bob Hoover kit minus the engine), how accurate is the outline? I do have a very mangled up Monogram Phantom Mustang that my brother had when it came out and it is somewhat cut up and badly painted in areas, I could use the nose from that if the Revell nose is really off. Hasegawa P-51D: How accurate is this kit? Does it have a nice cockpit? Is there almost as much work in correcting this kit as the Revell kit? 1/24 Trumpeter P-51D: I know this kit is more expensive, but would it be a lot less work in the cockpit and wheel well area? The flaps are already separate so I know that will save some time there. I'm kind of a time/money issue here, I really don't want to spend a lot of money, but if the Trumpeter will save a lot of work, the extra money will be worth it. Same thing if the Hasegawa is a lot better than the Revell. I know the Revell lacks a lot, but I already have it

http://www.network54.com/Realm/modeleral/Foil.html

Not quite Chris http://www.largescaleplanes.com/Photostory.../flyingtank.htm

20???

Kittens would never attack sofas or flesh ouch ouch, blood dripping At the top of the post is a quote button, click on that, typre your post, go down one box and delete any part of the quoted post you don't want. Chessie's shredding my door, better let him in....you daughters NEED a kitten!!

Sounds like she NEEDS a kitten

Reviewed by Menelaos Skourtopoulos http://www.largescaleplanes.com/reviews/Do...ro21/Zero21.htm

http://www.internetmodeler.com/2004/march/...s/tru_p-38l.php