Ryan

Yep.....the ZM Mustang.

Thanks Matt, was afraid of going to light on the highlites. "I think it looks great Ryan! The secret to this (or any other) approach is subtlety and restraint, and I reckon you've nailed that. Anything else results in a garish mess! I think this approach can also be combined quite successfully with more traditional dry-brushing and washes. In the end, the goal is to make the details pop, and you've certainly achieved that!" Kev thanks for the comment, much appreciated. Ryan

Nice progress sir! Ryan

For some time I have been wanting the try the techniques of the excellent modeler J.M. Villalba, here are (2) of the books he has written. Both books are very good and provide many step by step techniques Mr. Villalba employs in his builds. What really intriged me is his techniques regarding high lighting detail for the most part WITHOUT washes or dry brush motions. Mr Villalba certainly does it better, but here is my interpetaion of his technique. image by The 3rd Placer, on Flickr Having painted the tail section already it was time to use the finishing and detailing techniques in the book. I adjusted some steps to better suit my skill level. 1. Using diluted Tamiya paint, trace around all features and bulkheads to simulate shadows. (this I blew completely..need more practice) 2. Having failed with the black tracing, I loaded up the Tamiya yellow green and fixed my mistakes! 3. Here I resorted to a wash and clear coated the model with Metalizer Clear, then washed with MM B-52 Drab. 4. Once the wash wash dry I clear coated the parts with AV Matte Here is were the somewhat different technique in highlighting appears..... 5. Using a lightened version of your base coat you paint bulkheads, bolts heads etc. (this step is instead of a dry brush technique) Since Tamiya paint brushes terribly I set out to Hobby Lobby and damn near found an exact match for Tamiya Yellow Green in the craft paint isle! I then lightened this color with another craft paint until I had a shade or two lighter than the Tamiya base Then I just brush painted the highlites. 6. Done image by The 3rd Placer, on Flickr I realize this look isn't for everyone, but I like it....here are my finished parts using his techniques. image by The 3rd Placer, on Flickr Thanks Ryan

Hmmm, now that's an idea.

Yes I have the book. I can get the profile nailed down OK, but there are no shots of the glare shield a few inches past the forward part of it. (Showing the shroud vents etc.) Not knocking the book mind you....it would be a difficult shot to get with the windscreen attached. The glare on the windshield is in the way on most shots. (Maybe this is why Trumpeter molded it the wat they did)

Has anyone come a cross a good pic of the IP cover? The Trumpeter kit just has a featureless egg shaped lump, I was wanting correct it. Thanks Ryan

Ha finally some recognition.......my useless knowledge of 80's pop performers has finally paid off! Ryan

There may be a Thomas Dolby joke in here somewhere.

Nothing wrong with a little therapy build! Looking good Mal. Ryan

Do it man, that thing wont build itself! Seriously thanks for the compliment. Ryan

Yep these are just words on an internet post. But still getting the wallet warmed up though!

Yes but ZM kits ARE (will be) different from the competitors and existing models of those subjects

Sign me up!

Got it today! What an effort, thanks Pascal. Ryan

Good stuff man, models in the pre-weathered glossy stage always look scary. Decals settled in nicely. Keep going. Ryan

Wait this isn't a P-51..... image by The 3rd Placer, on Flickr Nope it's a test fuselage, 1/48 F-18 to be exact! I really hate washes and wanted to try something new so out came the test piece, airbrush and paint. I'll just describe the steps and let the pics do the rest. 1. Apply Tamiya NATO black as a solid pre-shade. 2. Apply Tamiya Yellow Green in a misted cloud pattern over the NATO leaving the black remaining in the cracks and recesses. (Very subtle) 3. Apply Model Master Clear to seal the color coats so far. 4. Apply the wash with diluted MM B-52 drab (a nice contrast to the Yellow Green...not too dark) 5. Seal with a Flat Coat. Note the P-51 parts haven't been washed or clear coated yet. image by The 3rd Placer, on Flickr image by The 3rd Placer, on Flickr image by The 3rd Placer, on Flickr Next I'll paint the tail gear and weather the tail section and the gear all at the same time. Thanks Ryan

Now we just need a kit of the Buc and better Lightning!

You'll like the Floor Wax dip Mal, do it. Ryan

Coming Saturday Chris. Shane I feel the same way about ZM, I bought mine (Mustang and Skyraider) at a national convention and was able to spend some time with the staff, the President of ZM shared a few emails with me too afterwords. I think if I don't build their kits I've let them down! For those who haven't built the kits or know anything about them I suggest you visit the ZM website and read all the "The Old Man blogs" You can really feel the sincerity about the products and people behind them. http://www.zoukeimura.co.jp/en/sentiment/oyajiblog_057.html Ryan

MM Metalizer Clear is a great clear coat too! Ryan

I know this sounds strange, but I use a puddle of Elmer's glue under the decal. The Elmer's for me seems to fill in any microscopic canyons that may be present after you apply a gloss coat.....if the gloss coat isn't smooth. Even done it over flat paint with no silvering. Test it out on a scrap decal and wing. The trick is to allow it to dry for a few mins the squeeze the glue out the edges of the decal "vacuum" sealing it to the surface. It's very forgiving and can be cleaned up with a soft brush after is dry. You only want enough glue under the decal to fill in the canyons...that's why you squeeze most of it out. Ryan

Thanks Maru, but there are plenty of flaws...mostly self inflicted! Ryan

Heading to Modelpalooza this weekend Chris?

Yes me too, I have never in 30 years finished a FW-190! Sad I know.