LSP_Mike Posted March 7, 2005 Author Share Posted March 7, 2005 Another comparison... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brian Perris Posted March 7, 2005 Share Posted March 7, 2005 Mike, Received the Fokker data you sent. Thanks for the info. Have you gone over to The Aerodrome and looked at the D VII build over on that net? THe correction method described in the 99 FSM article was used to correct the fuselage. Looks like it worked out pretty well--might be worth a look--although your bird looks real fine. Brian Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
P-40 Posted March 8, 2005 Share Posted March 8, 2005 That’s a great looking machine gun! How hard was it to build? I have never tried one of those ended thinking of getting some of the parts for my Triplane. Did you buy the wooden propeller? If you did, how is it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LSP_Mike Posted March 8, 2005 Author Share Posted March 8, 2005 Brad, thank you. the Copper State stuff is good. I also have some old Toms modelworks P/E(which includes the parabellum)the parts are ,well smalland can be a little tricky for a first timer like me. I keep in mind Chris S's mantra: finish the kit. So I am trying to ignore some small stuff and push forward. The prop was auctioned on e-bay,and is a nice replica of an AXIAL prop. I'm not doing the structural changes to this bird for ultimate accuracy;the prop looks good to me,I'll use it. One note: the Rev. Tripe has a mirror imaged cockpit; aside from that it is a prototype machine, one of the first three(I think) issued. As such it has some small differences from the production machines. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
P-40 Posted March 8, 2005 Share Posted March 8, 2005 Thanks for the information, I’ll have to give them a try. I am working on mine for a review and I am putting it together to check for fit, consequently I am doing mine pretty much out of the box, the only differences will be I will use the aftermarket propeller and if I can make the aftermarket guns look good I will see if I can just set the kit ones in place until I can build them. I am looking for information on the Triplane, I know of some of the inaccuracies of the kit, what are the differences between the prototype versions and the production versions? My version is from 1965 and I was really surprised to see the copyright on the inside of the fuselage as 1957, that makes the molds 48 years old! There are a few things that could be better with the kit, but overall for a 48 year old kit they actually did pretty good on some areas as far as I’m concerned, the fabric detail is actually pretty good and equals or beats a lot of stuff today, the stabilizer has some pretty thin edges. Here are photos of both sides of my cockpit, they are a little bit different with the details although if you want to make a halfway decent cockpit, you almost need to sand it smooth and scratch build it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
P-40 Posted March 8, 2005 Share Posted March 8, 2005 Here’s the other side. Is there something else wrong with the cockpit? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LSP_Mike Posted March 9, 2005 Author Share Posted March 9, 2005 Brad, the 'pit controls are reversed. the throttle is on the stick as are the two triggers. the triangle is a plywood insert, and the inside should be a "clear doped linen "color with the ply triangle on the inside,(cloth on outside) they all came with windscreens, seatbelts,and some standard guages. The most important thing to remember is the Revell kit is a prototype;hence there are differences from the production machines. It is essentially accurate;tho not as good as the SPAD or Camel. cosidering they are the same age molds. PM me your addy and I should be able to pass along some info from an acknowledged master on triplanes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LSP_Mike Posted March 13, 2005 Author Share Posted March 13, 2005 At last the guns are complete!This is the first time I've built a set of these,so they are a little rough;but they are mounted,and my little bird has teeth. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LSP_Mike Posted March 13, 2005 Author Share Posted March 13, 2005 this is the starboard side- lots of dry fitting here. I try to keep in mind that the next set will look better,and now the upper wing can be tested! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LSP_Mike Posted March 13, 2005 Author Share Posted March 13, 2005 sorry about the blurry pictures~ we're working on that ;tips are welcome. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scalephantomphixer Posted March 13, 2005 Share Posted March 13, 2005 sorry about the blurry pictures~ we're working on that ;tips are welcome. Mike, To improve the sharpness of your pictures, put your camera on a tripod. Put your camera in manual mode (or semi-automatic) and select the smallest apperture you can get (depending on the camera / lens, from 8 to 22). The smallest (meaning HIGH numbers), the better. This will give you depth of field, which means that not only the focus point will be sharp, but also some area in fore and aft of it. The exposure time - calculated automatically if in mode semi-automatic - will be long: from 1/30 to 1-2 seconds, depending on the available light. But you don't care, since you have the tripod. Focus on a contrasted point of your object. If the autofocus keeps on moving back and forth, it means that there is not contrast enough for it to focus on. Add more light, or try to include a contrasted area into your focus area by off-centering the camera a little bit. If it still does not work, zoom out a little bit. Or move your camera further away from the subject. Lenses have minimal focus distances. If you exceed it, your image will be blurred, no matter whether everything else is ok. A final tip to avoid any shaking: use the timer to fire your camera. So you hit the trigger, and keep your hands off the camera until the picture is taken. No more blurred pictures. Hope this helps, Pierre PS: I love your Fokker. It will be one of my next builds. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brian Perris Posted March 14, 2005 Share Posted March 14, 2005 Mike, That bird is looking great--can't wait for you to finish it. Brian Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest canuck63 Posted March 14, 2005 Share Posted March 14, 2005 WOW!!!!!!Mike.....your DVII is a show stopper indeed !I always envied you "WWI" guys....the mere thought of riggings and wire wheels makes me want to reach for a 20lts. jerrycan full of Valium!Keep up the good work matey ! Manuel Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ted Barrett Posted March 14, 2005 Share Posted March 14, 2005 Hi Mike, Despite the blur the guns along with the rest of the model look great! Like the others, I can hardly wait to see it finished! Out of curiosity, do you know if the decals that are included in the kit are accurate colour-wise (the checkerboard in particular)? I'd really like to do that particular DVII. Ted Barrett Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LSP_Mike Posted March 15, 2005 Author Share Posted March 15, 2005 Ted, the checker board is hand painted; the lozenge is ohh say a little off. When I do my next german it will be with Copper State upper and lower lozenge. BUT I like that Rev even DID the lozenge in this scale! they were the first and that deserves some credit. I want to try a Sopwith tripe maybe next so ......thanks to allfor the positive feed backs! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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