Working Scissors on 1/24 Bf109G-6

[ChrisS]

The Trump working oleo and scissor is part genious and part moron They got the oleo almost right on, VERY crafty, but they left the scissor links with no pinning system. Meaning when the oleo would articulate, it simply pops the scissors right off. Baffling.

 

I drilled out the scissors body, and a matching hole for the mounting gates and used thin brass rod to get them to actuate. Works like a charm.

[alaninaustria]

Looking good there my man!! Infact everything I see on this site is looking good!! Lets see more photos!

Cheers

Alan

[ChrisS]

Took a little Quick Time movie of the action. It's quite smooth and seems very stout.

 

Scissor link action

 

I used Bare Metal Foil on the oleo to give it some shine.

 

Get Quick Time Here

[BlueMax]

Chris,

 

Yet another great tip! I CERTAINLY will have to do this trick with my G-6!

 

A couple of questions... At the center area (where the two pieces of the scissors conntect to each other) did you have to do anything to this area (to allow for the motion) or is the design such that no work was needed on this area to make the parts actuate?

 

What did you do to secure the pieces of brass rod to prevent them from backing out?

 

And of course, on final question. By allowing the springs inside the oleos to actually support some or most of the models weight now, do you think these springs will hold up over time or do you think they will finally "give-up-the-ghost" at some point and "sag" horribly?

 

Thanks again,

David

[ChrisS]

David,

 

The center area doesn't need any work if the action is smooth. I used some machine oil on the action and it holds fine. I did contemplate filling the female scissor linkage and re-drilling it, but decided not to. The kit parts do not have a full hole, but more of a crecent that the link pin "sits" in. One thing that helps is to orient the scissor parts to maximize their abilities. I used the female on top (sounds like fun eh!!? ) and this helps to minimize "jumping." The pic above shows the female on the bottom, but that was a test fit.

 

After I trimmed the brass pins as close to the scissor as I dared, I then dabbed a tinly bit of fast CY to the pin while holding it facing down. meaning I wanted to defeat an capilary action through the scissor and down the length of the pin. It worked fine.

 

Well, these springs will eventually die. But at that point I'll just plan to glue them.

 

After a day to think about what I've done, it reminds me of super-detailing an engine that you'll be covering up; the model won't be for playing with, and so all this will probably be lost in it's display. Oh well.

 

Cheers~

[LSP_Mike]

In leiu of using machine oil ,vegetable oil is just as effective and is not petroleum based-won't melt or make the parts muushyy. cheers mike in calif

Darn nice work Chris!

[BlueMax]

Chris,

 

Thanks again for the answered "20 questions"!

 

Let me be one of the first to say that NOTHING you do in detailing or super-detailing your G-6 (or any model for that matter) will ever be waisted. As a prime example of how detailing can ultimately "present" a model, look at any model that the one and only... Mr. Rodney Williams has detailed! He goes WAY (and I DO mean WAY) beyond my calibur of being a detail oriented modeler. And yet his photos, during a build and afterward, are quite interesting and (more importantly) VERY "rememberable"!

 

So, DETAIL ONWARD my friend! Detail until your heart is content! There are those of us who will still "ou" and "ah" over the finsihed project. Keep posting the photos and I'll keep watching, asking questions, and commenting on the build as you go. There's absolutely NO doubt in my mind, that I can learn from your G-6 build, which will be a valuable asset when I ever get around to building mine.

 

Thanks again,

David