Airco DH.6A aka "Skyhook"

[Tomek]

Edit: This thread was moved from Multiwing GB which I failed to execute in given time http://forum.largescaleplanes.com/public/style_emoticons/#EMO_DIR#/sad.gif

 

It will be the first group build in my life http://forum.largescaleplanes.com/public/style_emoticons/#EMO_DIR#/biggrin.gif . Should be fun.

I'm going to build Airco DH.6 published by Orlik (paper kit of course http://forum.largescaleplanes.com/public/style_emoticons/#EMO_DIR#/laugh.gif ). The kit has four A4 pages of parts printed on card, 1 page on regular paper plus the instruction and assembly drawings. On the first glance it seems like a moderate difficulty kit. Will see how it turns out in reality...

 

Cover:

 

 

Few details:

 

 

 

 

The kick off of this build starts early, but the actual work will be delayed few weeks, while I'll try to wrap up my P-39 build.

Edited September 24, 2014 by Tomek

[OldTroll]

I have this one in my stack also. Looking forward to your build as a learning experience!

[Tomek]

Hey Ron,

I've been trying to find a build thread of this kit on many paper modeling forums, but to no avail. I'm not sure that's a good sign . I'm on my own here and any advice during the build will be appreciated.

Did I mentioned this will be my first biplane? <sigh>

[Bomarc]

Go, Tomek, go!

 

I'm rootin' for you....

[Out2gtcha]

COOOOOOOL! Brave man! Looks like a cool subject. Im not sure Im brave enough to start a complex bipe like this in any medium.

 

Can you put rigging on paper models like this?

[Tomek]

I'm rootin' for you....

Thanks Willie ... err ... I meant Mike

 

COOOOOOOL! Brave man! Looks like a cool subject. Im not sure Im brave enough to start a complex bipe like this in any medium.

Can you put rigging on paper models like this?

Will see how it goes, Brian. The rigging and a proper wing structure will be challenging, and I need to educate myself quite a bit before I attempt to do it. It will be something different for me so my motivation is on the rise .

I think there is not much difference between rigging paper or plastic model, although probably I shouldn't say such things since I haven't done biplane in any of these mediums . Anyway, I'm going to use for this purpose EZline which you complimented in some older thread. Seems like a perfect material.

[Out2gtcha]

Anyway, I'm going to use for this purpose EZline which you complimented in some older thread. Seems like a perfect material.

 

It works awesome for ariel antennas and Ive always been planning to use it on any bipes Im going to build. It stretches about 5-7 times its own size. Quite amazing stuff, ties in knots, takes to paint and CA well too.

 

Looking forward to seeing more.

 

Cheers,

Brian

[automaton]

This will be an interesting build, Tomek. I'd heard of paper modelling for some time, but to be honest, I misunderstood and underestimated it until I read through your P-39 thread a few days ago. It occurred to me as I read that with the proper techniques, paper could even be used as an adjunct to plastic modelling.

 

Regards;

 

Automaton

[OldTroll]

Tomek, if you have not already done so you might consider getting the laser-cut frames for this model. Virtually all lamination calls for 0.5 mm material and the wing ribs are very thin with a 0.5 mm slot in each one for the wing "spar." I tried another Orlik model with similar ribs and was unable to consistently cut them out without damage. The laser frames give the builder a fighting chance (although the wings are still quite flimsy until skinned.) I suspect that GPM and/or Paper Model Store may sell them. With the skill you have already demonstrated on your P-39 build you may not need any laser-cut assistance...

Edited April 4, 2011 by OldTroll

[Tomek]

Tomek, if you have not already done so you might consider getting the laser-cut frames for this model. Virtually all lamination calls for 0.5 mm material and the wing ribs are very thin with a 0.5 mm slot in each one for the wing "spar." I tried another Orlik model with similar ribs and was unable to consistently cut them out without damage. The laser frames give the builder a fighting chance (although the wings are still quite flimsy until skinned.)

 

Initially, I wanted to get laser-cut frames (Papermodelstore carries it), but after some thought I decided to go bold and cut the formers and spars myself. Not that I'm confident I can do it with required precision, rather I wanted to practice this element of a paper model build. I hate doing it, but it's pretty essential skill to have.

Here few pictures to illustrate for others what we're dealing with:

 

 

 

 

I'll scan and print the page with spars and I'll try to cut them to see how precise I can do it. If I'll see it's going nowhere I'll buy laser-cuts to protect my sanity . Anyway, thanks Ron for heads up!

 

I've been searching web for some reference materials, but there is not much out there. Finally I went for some print sources and I bought on ebay Windsock Datafile #103. I hope to have nice lecture during the build

 

[OldTroll]

Good luck - may your rib-cutter remain sharp and accurate! The Windsock Datafile is the best source around for this bird. Enjoy!

[Tomek]

I needed a break from working on the undercarriage of my P-39 and I thought some work on DH.6 should just do the trick. Besides the clock is ticking for this GB.

 

I started with laminating the formers and wing elements on proper thickness cardboard. I used for that 3M 77 multipurpose spray glue. It’s a quick job, and sheets are ready to be cut almost just after the process is over. As Ron predicted the wing structure elements are bit flimsy and difficult to cut. Mine are not perfect, but I hope they do the job. They may still need a touch of sandpaper.

 

 

 

 

Next, I prepared all sheets with parts by coating them with ModelMaster flat lacquer. I started experimenting with nitrate dope recently, but here I used my old method. The reason is silver print. Nitrate dope penetrates cardstock quite deeply and I was afraid the silver parts will just loose some of their appearance. Masking all silver parts and brushing in MM lacquer seemed much safer solution and it worked as I expected.

 

 

 

 

Flipping through the kit before I made my decision about the GB entry, I noticed some odd things. First, the cover doesn’t really show the same aircraft as designed. I waited with any conclusions until I can familiarize myself with the topic. Here Windsock Datafile and whatever I found on the Internet came handy.

It appears the kit is for the late production airplane with Curtiss OX-5 engine, which got designation DH.6A. In mid 1918 after a series of test some changes to the design were introduced. First, 10 inches of back-stagger to wings was implemented to reduce chord and camber and overall improve stability. Second, airplane got narrower rudder and elevators. Looking at the assembly drawing of the kit there is apparent back-stagger of the wings. It seems also the kit has narrower tail elements as comparison to the up-scaled plans from Datafile revealed (on the pictures below all drawings are for the late version).

The kit depicts a machine with number C 6597 and based on Robertson info it was manufactured by Morgan & Co. which fitted DH.6 with Curtiss OX-5 engine and some with 80-hp Renault. I haven’t found any rule concerning use of 4 or 2 blade propeller, so the designer was basically free to pick any. So far so good.

What seems not to match in the kit are upswept exhaust pipes, which it appears were characteristic to a version with RAF1A engine, and not Curtiss.

Here line drawings of early DH.6 with RAF1A and late one with Curtiss OX-5.

There are also some issues with a profile of the fuselage in the nose and tail section. Comparing them to up-scaled to 1:33 plans showed some small discrepancies. These differences are probably workable, but I’m not that confident I’m able to fix them. Here I just wanted to note that I’m aware of it. The only thing I’m going to change are the exhaust pipes.

 

 

 

 

Now I'm ready to glue things together .

Edited May 13, 2011 by Tomek

[OldTroll]

What an intelligent, deliberate and careful approach. I always try to do my builds this way and then at some point the "hurry ups" take over...you would think a man with 60 years model crunching experience would have learned SOMETHING by now...<<heavy sigh>> I suspect the inconsistencies noted regarding configuration my be due to less than accurate sources being used for the model design. The two prime sources I have for this machine are the Windsock Datafile noted above and the two-volume "DeHavilland Aircraft of World War I", Colin Owers, Flying Buffalo Press. The drawings in the latter show five different configurations. Only the RAF1a engine is shown with the upswept exhaust and four-bladed prop. There are two distinct nose profiles (1.RAF1a and Renault both have a deep "chin" and 2. OX-5 with a straight bottom line from the bottom of the radiator to the forward LG strut.) The designer may have "mixed" features from more than one version. Keep up the good work - and pre-plan and pre-rig as much of your rigging as is possible.

Edited May 13, 2011 by OldTroll

[Tomek]

Hey Ron,

Ah, screw ups because of haste ... Once I topped myself by forgetting three times to glue guns throughs on Ki-61. They had to be attached from inside the fuselage, and ended up cutting big holes in nearby formers to be able to put my fingers inside for the operation. Every time I made an openIng, I forgot about it and glued next segment of the fuselage...

 

Your information regarding DH.6 is very helpful. It confirms what was mostly an assumption on my part. Robertson is not very specific about each "variant". Looking at the pictures I haven't seen any Curtiss engined DH.6 with, as you describe, a "deep chin" and upswept exhaust. I regret a little, because I think the early version is quite appealing. I hope though that the model will still look interesting.

Thanks for looking and info!

[Tomek]

Hi there,

 

Over last week and half I managed to do some work. Not much but it was quite enjoyable.

I started with the cockpit. The references concerning this part of the aircraft are very sparse. What is available in the Datafile is a shot of the instrument panel and a very general drawing of the area. I stalked even Ron (OldTroll) to consult his references, but it seems there is not much out there (thanks Ron again!). To get a general idea how some things may look like I checked color pictures of DH.9 posted on Wingnut Wings website. Because DH.6 was designed with low cost and easy maintenance in mind, the cockpit equipment would most likely look more spartan than in Ninak.

 

First, I made two control sticks. The kit provides only template for this part, which has to be made of wire. I enhanced it a little bit with a grip by making it out of a strip of regular printer paper.

 

 

 

Than the floor with the rudder pedals and side walls.

 

 

 

 

The instrument panel was straight forward, but somehow it turned out a little bit sloppy (so no macro shots, guys ). For some reason I had problems punching nice round bezels. I hope it’s not too bad. BTW, this instrument panel doesn’t look like the part. The picture in the Datafile shows a little bit different configuration to say it gently. I’m not feeling confident I could scratch build it properly, so it will stay as it is.

 

 

The seats in the kit look like made of wood which seems incorrect. These were actually wicker seats and seeing beautiful work of Qvarre I decided to make my own. As a reference I used again DH.9 photos. A lot of experimentation with materials, few failed attempts and I’m still not satisfied. What I’m showing you is still just a beta version. I’ll redo it and hopefully they will look better. The method more less will stay the same.

I used wire to build a frame and a silk thread for weaving. It turned out the wire as the thread are simply too thick and don’t look very good. In the next seat I’m going for finer materials. I outlined the frame on 1mm cardboard to make the bottom, then the cushion. I impressed on it some buttons and with a dull stylus tried to simulate some grooves. For the padding on top I used a rubbery wire insulation from old headphones. It looks a little bit crude and thick so I may try different material next time. On the other side such upholstery in this period was often less than sophisticated. After painting the seat I used some washes made of oil paints to highlight the details. Below pictures of almost step-by-step procedure:

 

 

The seat belts are from the kit, I replaced only a buckle (they are not glued yet).

 

 

 

Any suggestions are welcome.

Edited September 29, 2011 by Tomek